Death Wobble in my Series

Sleam

Explorer
Any thoughts and suggestions appreciated. I just had a phonecall from my mechanic who is stumped and worried enough that he doesn't want me driving the Series until we know what's really going on.
A took Shorty for a 100 mile drive on county roads, after 50 0r 60 miles when turning right onto another highway, steering wobbled so badly I thought I was going to drive headlong into the car coming towards me (a state trooper at that). Stopped and was shaken but fine. I couldn't find anything so turned around and drove home without incident.

Mechanic checked and tightened steering and says that feels solid. Tires good. New tie-rod ends. Steering box and relay fluids good. Tightened the bolts that hold the leaf springs down.
Found lots of odds and ends loose that he tightened.
Nothing wrong with wheel bearings.
Worried that the leaf spring where it is mounted to the body (?) is worn. It's not something he's comfortable doing, replacing that set up.

Other suggestions?
One is to take it to the leaf spring fabricators in Alb. some sixty miles away.

Can i safely drive it? Does it need to be towed? Does it sound like he has solved the problem? Does it need to go to the Alb place first? What do you think?
Please help us out here!
s
 

tacr2man

Adventurer
Usual culprit , wear in railko bushes in swivel hubs. Did your guy drop the track rod and check the turn resistance in the hubs? Does yours have a steering damper fitted to the track rod? if yes how long since it was last replaced? Have you had the front wheels balanced? All can be contributory factors HTSH
 

JSBriggs

Adventurer
yes. its almost always swivel ball preload. Double check the tie rod ends and the bushings on the springs, but 9 out of 10 its the preload. and while a steering stabilazer will help calm it, its a band aid.

-Jeff
 

Sleam

Explorer
NO steering damper but new tie rod ends. Will he know what you mean with "swivel ball preload" or are there other terms too? He's a classic vehicle long term mechanic but not a rover specialist. I spoke to the other guys I go to, a shop in Alb but Rob didn't seem worried about me driving after I listed all that Scott had checked and tightened. I forgot to ask if Scott found out why the wheel was tilted/ off camber (?)... Anyway, throw out more things for me to ask on Monday please!
s
 

Sleam

Explorer
You've got Rob's phone number at SWR right?

Yes but he wasn't exactly forthcoming or helpful when I called. It kind of left me with a bad taste in my mouth, like he didn't want to touch it. Strange phone call to say the least. I would rather avoid having to go there if I can to be honest.
 

JSBriggs

Adventurer
Yes but he wasn't exactly forthcoming or helpful when I called. It kind of left me with a bad taste in my mouth, like he didn't want to touch it. Strange phone call to say the least. I would rather avoid having to go there if I can to be honest.

IMO that would be a mistake. Dassler is one of the best in the business. He probably wasn't too excited to diagnose over the phone pro bono.

As for camber, its points to worn/shot swivel pins. Toe is the only thing that is adjustable for the purpose of alignment.

-Jeff
 

LR Max

Local Oaf
Did you replace the TRE's that connect the steering box to the Steering Relay?

Everyone forgets about those. I've had a few go bad, causing issues. Check those first as they are easier to replace compared to diving into the swivels.
 

Sleam

Explorer
Did you replace the TRE's that connect the steering box to the Steering Relay?

Everyone forgets about those. I've had a few go bad, causing issues. Check those first as they are easier to replace compared to diving into the swivels.

What are they? No idea but let me know what to check okay? thanks!
 

Sleam

Explorer
Checked and looking fine, no play or rust. The only thing we found after going over it in detail is the leaf spring bushings are all rotted out. From what I hear, it's something I can do at home with the rover on stands to take the weight off. I'll order the bushings and probably new bolts etc and let you all know. Thanks for all your help, much appreciated.
Sarah
 

JackW

Explorer
Press new bushings in the frame as well -to remove the old bushings I usually use a 1" hole saw coming in from each side to remove what's left of the rubber and carefully split the outer steel sleeve with a hacksaw then drive it out.
Get a 12" length of 5/8 acme threaded rod and some acme nuts and big washers (source - McMaster-Carr) to press the bushing into the frame. Be sure to use anti-sieze on the id of the frame hole and check the frame for rust.

I'd go ahead and replace the Railko bushes too if it was my truck. Death Wobble is no fun.
If teh springs have sagged flat the Caster angle changes too.
 

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