I figure it may be time to begin a thread to document my slow burning ‘87 D50 diesel project.
I’ve a 1987 Ram 50(D50/MM) macrocab, 2.6 4G54, KM145 5 speed, 4x4, that is rust free, has good bones but a tired engine w/200k+ miles. After looking rather extensively for this exact combination, I lucked out and ended up finding it a block away in my neighbor's sideyard; they’d owned it for years and years and only kept it around for the odd dump run/lumber haul/etc.
The general plan is to swap in a new D4BF (4D56t) along with a beefed up drivetrain, suspension, brakes, etc from various Gen 2s and MSs. My ultimate objective is to build a robust, simple, fairly easy to maintain/repair, minimal electronics, long lasting, and reliable truck capable of hauling decent loads, solid fuel economy, and long distance trips/possible overlanding expeditions.
I don’t do any hard core ‘crawling’, but rather lots of hauling firewood/motorcycles/soil/etc, winter driving in heavy snow/mountainous terrain, lots of tough dirt/gravel/logging roads, and long road trips. The private hope is that I may be able to take off on a long self supported overland trip in the coming years, perhaps head for Tierrra del Fuego; toughness, reliability, range, and simplicity are paramount.
I’ve spent the past year or so tracking down and sourcing odd, specific, and hard to find parts, and after a less than focused spring/summer, am nearly at the point of tearing the D50 down to the frame and building it back up. Below is a broad stroke synopsis of my planned build, parts not yet acquired are in grey italics:
ENGINE
-Brand new crate D4BF (4D56t) motor, https://shop.korea-motors.com/new-engine-diasel-d4bf-assy-set-mobis-2015-mnr-21101-97-06-.html
-EGR block off
-EGT sensor
-Boost gauge
-2.5” exhaust
-Front mount intercooler
-OEM 2.6 SWB 3 row radiator
-OEM viscous clutch fan
-Block heater freeze plug
-Snorkel intake
-Water separator fuel filter/heater
-Fumoto oil drain valve
-Tune injection pump
DRIVETRAIN
-V5MT1 5MT, rebuilt - ‘97 MS 3.0 ‘LS’, JA4MT31P2VP004615
-4D56t to V5MT1 bellhousing - ‘06 L200 K74
-Centerforce II Clutch, # CFT581780
-MS rebuilt MC/SC
-CAD free 8” 4.636 front diff - ‘03 MS 3.0, JA4MT21H03J006737
-100mm CV shafts - ‘94 SR 3.5, JA4MR51M3RJ001621
-9.5” 4.636 locker rear leaf spring axle - ‘99 MS 3.5 ‘LTD’, JA4MT41R1XP033372
-Marks 4WD 3.15:1 transfer case gears, # PAJ-GEN2-3.15M
-ARB front & rear lockers, # RD110 & RD212
-ARB compressor, # CKMTA12
BRAKES
-MS 315mm front caliper brackets - ‘01 MS 3.5, JA4MT41R71P030970
-MS rear disc brakes - ‘99 MS 3.5 ‘LTD’, JA4MT41R1XP033372
-MC/Booster/Proportioning valve - ‘97 MS 3.0 ‘LS’, JA4MT31P2VP004615
-Stainless braided hoses
-Fresh rotors, pads, rebuilt calipers/MC
SUSPENSION
-MS UPCA & LCA - ‘97 MS 3.0 ‘LS’, JA4MT31P2VP004615
-OEM upper & lower ball joints
-Sway Away HD torsion bars - # 1726
-OME HD leafs & shackles, # CS023R & OMEGS16
-Poly bushings throughout
-Bilstein 4600 shocks
-MS sway bars - ‘99 MS 3.5 ‘LTD’, JA4MT41R1XP033372
STEERING
-MS rebuilt steering pump & box - ‘97 MS 3.0 ‘LS’, JA4MT31P2VP004615
-MS knuckles - ‘97 MS 3.0 ‘LS’, JA4MT31P2VP004615
-MS idler w/ADD chromoly kingpin kit - ‘97 MS 3.0 ‘LS’, JA4MT31P2VP004615
-OEM tie rod ends
ELECTRICAL/LIGHTS
-LED bulbs throughout
-JW Speaker LED 5” x 7” headlights w/heater - # 8910
-Dakota Digital tach converter
-Pyro & boost gauges
-D50/MM ‘sport’ dash gauges w/tach & speedo
-New stereo
-Inverter
-Dual batteries
-Glow plug timer switch
-Cruise control
-Air conditioning
-Intermittent wiper switch
WHEELS
-Aisin FHM-002 manual locking hubs
-16” x 7” steel ‘NATO’ style rims, 5x
-Falken Wildpeak ATW3 235/85r16, 5x
BODY/ARMOR
-New OEM paint, B76 Twilight Blue Metallic
-POR15 frame/etc
-Flat bed w/drawer, under deck boxes, & 2” reciever
-Sliders
-Tubular front bumper w/Warn winch
-Skid plates
-Larger or 2nd fuel tank
INTERIOR
-POR15 floor
-Insulation & soundproofing
-New grey carpet
-OEM grey macrocab interior plastics/trim
-OEM grey center console
-Custom ABS door panels
-Bucket seats w/arm rests, possible bouncy seat bases if they can be made to fit
-Tint/security film
At the moment I’m monitoring MrRay’s thread regarding the variances in V5MT1 input shafts to determine if I’ll encounter the same issue and/or how to rectify it, https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/seeking-help-with-dead-jdm-v5mt1-mystery.208734/.
I bought a complete ‘97 MS w/V5MT1 to harvest parts from and haven’t yet pulled the V5MT1 to determine if it’s input shaft will fit the 4D56t to V5MT1 bellhousing I imported from Europe many months ago. I was entirely oblivious to this potential complication until MrRay posted a few days ago; the discrepancy in input shaft diameter hasn’t been mentioned anywhere that I’ve been able to find.
Once I’ve the V5MT1 pulled, I’ll open it up, address the input shaft and anything else suspect and then hopefully be able to verify which set of transfer case gears I need to order from Marks 4WD in Australia. I’m strongly leaning toward the 3.15:1 gears if I can get them as I see no downside beyond slower speeds vs the 2.7:1 or 2.85:1 but much more control and torque at low speeds, yet will need to wait until the transfer case is open to verify spline count and shaft diameter. https://www.marks4wd.com/low-range-overdrive-gears/paj-gen2-3-15m.html
Anyone have any advice regarding my choice of the 3.15:1 gears?
The other aspect of the build I’m trying to figure out is what radiator/fan configuration to go with. I’m well aware of the fact that the D4BF/4D56t needs a robust cooling system to protect the alloy head, esp when driving slowly w/AC, etc.
Option 1 - Take advantage of the fact that I’ve a brand new clutch fan, and pair it with a Gen 1 2.6 SWB 3 row brass radiator after having it rodded out. I’m fortunate to have a great local radiator shop about a mile away, 2.6 3 row radiators are pretty easy to find, relatively cheap, and benefit from the ability to be brazed via torch should any repairs become necessary in the middle of nowhere, and the fan can be easily modified to run constantly should it be necessary.
This seems to be regarded as a more than ample and reliable set up by many on the Australian Pajero forums with much more experience with the D4BF/4D56t motor, blisteringly hot conditions, and lots of off road/overlanding culture.
Option 2 - Members of the mightyram50.net forum, who are more into the mini truck and performance ‘scene’, have figured out that Nissan 240 SX radiators are a near perfect size match for the D50/MM. Mishimoto offers pretty nice aluminum 240 SX radiators in both 2 and 3 row as well as dual electric fan shroud. There are plenty of cheaper no name options on eBay/etc, but Misihmoto seems to have a pretty good reputation and a lifetime warranty.
-2 Row, https://www.mishimoto.com/nissan-24...MI96KmqLPF5AIVAcJkCh1o_QePEAQYASABEgLjmvD_BwE
-3 Row, https://www.mishimoto.com/nissan-240sx-s13-performance-aluminum-radiator-89-94-sr20-triple.html
-Dual electric fan shroud, https://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-nissan-240sx-aluminum-fan-shroud-89.html
The 3 row aluminum radiator would be nice insurance against potential overheating when heavily loaded, in the heat, running AC, and on rough terrain. My best friend is an aluminum boat welder by trade so I’m confident I’ll be able to modify/add any brackets needed to securely mount it.
My hesitation lies with the potential reliability, or lack thereof, in remote areas. Aluminum is more prone to damage and much more difficult to repair in less than ideal circumstances. Additionally, I’ve no doubt the electric fans draw more than enough air, w/potentially less parasitic drag, but should they fail, they can’t be easily repaired on the trail whereas the clutch fan can be physically wired/zip tied to run constantly, ensuring you can limp home.
I’ve saved up and paid a pretty penny for my brand new motor and want to adequately protect that investment, so the few hundred dollar price differential between the two setups isn’t much of a concern. I’m confident the aluminum radiators and electric fans are amply reliable, they’re spec’d on nearly every new car, and maximizing my MPG is important to me, yet despite that I’m hesitant about going in that direction. Cooling is one aspect of a truck that can really ******** you if it fails in a rough spot, and my luck typically follows Murphy’s Law.
I’d welcome any good advice or input.
I’ve a 1987 Ram 50(D50/MM) macrocab, 2.6 4G54, KM145 5 speed, 4x4, that is rust free, has good bones but a tired engine w/200k+ miles. After looking rather extensively for this exact combination, I lucked out and ended up finding it a block away in my neighbor's sideyard; they’d owned it for years and years and only kept it around for the odd dump run/lumber haul/etc.
The general plan is to swap in a new D4BF (4D56t) along with a beefed up drivetrain, suspension, brakes, etc from various Gen 2s and MSs. My ultimate objective is to build a robust, simple, fairly easy to maintain/repair, minimal electronics, long lasting, and reliable truck capable of hauling decent loads, solid fuel economy, and long distance trips/possible overlanding expeditions.
I don’t do any hard core ‘crawling’, but rather lots of hauling firewood/motorcycles/soil/etc, winter driving in heavy snow/mountainous terrain, lots of tough dirt/gravel/logging roads, and long road trips. The private hope is that I may be able to take off on a long self supported overland trip in the coming years, perhaps head for Tierrra del Fuego; toughness, reliability, range, and simplicity are paramount.
I’ve spent the past year or so tracking down and sourcing odd, specific, and hard to find parts, and after a less than focused spring/summer, am nearly at the point of tearing the D50 down to the frame and building it back up. Below is a broad stroke synopsis of my planned build, parts not yet acquired are in grey italics:
ENGINE
-Brand new crate D4BF (4D56t) motor, https://shop.korea-motors.com/new-engine-diasel-d4bf-assy-set-mobis-2015-mnr-21101-97-06-.html
-EGR block off
-EGT sensor
-Boost gauge
-2.5” exhaust
-Front mount intercooler
-OEM 2.6 SWB 3 row radiator
-OEM viscous clutch fan
-Block heater freeze plug
-Snorkel intake
-Water separator fuel filter/heater
-Fumoto oil drain valve
-Tune injection pump
DRIVETRAIN
-V5MT1 5MT, rebuilt - ‘97 MS 3.0 ‘LS’, JA4MT31P2VP004615
-4D56t to V5MT1 bellhousing - ‘06 L200 K74
-Centerforce II Clutch, # CFT581780
-MS rebuilt MC/SC
-CAD free 8” 4.636 front diff - ‘03 MS 3.0, JA4MT21H03J006737
-100mm CV shafts - ‘94 SR 3.5, JA4MR51M3RJ001621
-9.5” 4.636 locker rear leaf spring axle - ‘99 MS 3.5 ‘LTD’, JA4MT41R1XP033372
-Marks 4WD 3.15:1 transfer case gears, # PAJ-GEN2-3.15M
-ARB front & rear lockers, # RD110 & RD212
-ARB compressor, # CKMTA12
BRAKES
-MS 315mm front caliper brackets - ‘01 MS 3.5, JA4MT41R71P030970
-MS rear disc brakes - ‘99 MS 3.5 ‘LTD’, JA4MT41R1XP033372
-MC/Booster/Proportioning valve - ‘97 MS 3.0 ‘LS’, JA4MT31P2VP004615
-Stainless braided hoses
-Fresh rotors, pads, rebuilt calipers/MC
SUSPENSION
-MS UPCA & LCA - ‘97 MS 3.0 ‘LS’, JA4MT31P2VP004615
-OEM upper & lower ball joints
-Sway Away HD torsion bars - # 1726
-OME HD leafs & shackles, # CS023R & OMEGS16
-Poly bushings throughout
-Bilstein 4600 shocks
-MS sway bars - ‘99 MS 3.5 ‘LTD’, JA4MT41R1XP033372
STEERING
-MS rebuilt steering pump & box - ‘97 MS 3.0 ‘LS’, JA4MT31P2VP004615
-MS knuckles - ‘97 MS 3.0 ‘LS’, JA4MT31P2VP004615
-MS idler w/ADD chromoly kingpin kit - ‘97 MS 3.0 ‘LS’, JA4MT31P2VP004615
-OEM tie rod ends
ELECTRICAL/LIGHTS
-LED bulbs throughout
-JW Speaker LED 5” x 7” headlights w/heater - # 8910
-Dakota Digital tach converter
-Pyro & boost gauges
-D50/MM ‘sport’ dash gauges w/tach & speedo
-New stereo
-Inverter
-Dual batteries
-Glow plug timer switch
-Cruise control
-Air conditioning
-Intermittent wiper switch
WHEELS
-Aisin FHM-002 manual locking hubs
-16” x 7” steel ‘NATO’ style rims, 5x
-Falken Wildpeak ATW3 235/85r16, 5x
BODY/ARMOR
-New OEM paint, B76 Twilight Blue Metallic
-POR15 frame/etc
-Flat bed w/drawer, under deck boxes, & 2” reciever
-Sliders
-Tubular front bumper w/Warn winch
-Skid plates
-Larger or 2nd fuel tank
INTERIOR
-POR15 floor
-Insulation & soundproofing
-New grey carpet
-OEM grey macrocab interior plastics/trim
-OEM grey center console
-Custom ABS door panels
-Bucket seats w/arm rests, possible bouncy seat bases if they can be made to fit
-Tint/security film
At the moment I’m monitoring MrRay’s thread regarding the variances in V5MT1 input shafts to determine if I’ll encounter the same issue and/or how to rectify it, https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/seeking-help-with-dead-jdm-v5mt1-mystery.208734/.
I bought a complete ‘97 MS w/V5MT1 to harvest parts from and haven’t yet pulled the V5MT1 to determine if it’s input shaft will fit the 4D56t to V5MT1 bellhousing I imported from Europe many months ago. I was entirely oblivious to this potential complication until MrRay posted a few days ago; the discrepancy in input shaft diameter hasn’t been mentioned anywhere that I’ve been able to find.
Once I’ve the V5MT1 pulled, I’ll open it up, address the input shaft and anything else suspect and then hopefully be able to verify which set of transfer case gears I need to order from Marks 4WD in Australia. I’m strongly leaning toward the 3.15:1 gears if I can get them as I see no downside beyond slower speeds vs the 2.7:1 or 2.85:1 but much more control and torque at low speeds, yet will need to wait until the transfer case is open to verify spline count and shaft diameter. https://www.marks4wd.com/low-range-overdrive-gears/paj-gen2-3-15m.html
Anyone have any advice regarding my choice of the 3.15:1 gears?
The other aspect of the build I’m trying to figure out is what radiator/fan configuration to go with. I’m well aware of the fact that the D4BF/4D56t needs a robust cooling system to protect the alloy head, esp when driving slowly w/AC, etc.
Option 1 - Take advantage of the fact that I’ve a brand new clutch fan, and pair it with a Gen 1 2.6 SWB 3 row brass radiator after having it rodded out. I’m fortunate to have a great local radiator shop about a mile away, 2.6 3 row radiators are pretty easy to find, relatively cheap, and benefit from the ability to be brazed via torch should any repairs become necessary in the middle of nowhere, and the fan can be easily modified to run constantly should it be necessary.
This seems to be regarded as a more than ample and reliable set up by many on the Australian Pajero forums with much more experience with the D4BF/4D56t motor, blisteringly hot conditions, and lots of off road/overlanding culture.
Option 2 - Members of the mightyram50.net forum, who are more into the mini truck and performance ‘scene’, have figured out that Nissan 240 SX radiators are a near perfect size match for the D50/MM. Mishimoto offers pretty nice aluminum 240 SX radiators in both 2 and 3 row as well as dual electric fan shroud. There are plenty of cheaper no name options on eBay/etc, but Misihmoto seems to have a pretty good reputation and a lifetime warranty.
-2 Row, https://www.mishimoto.com/nissan-24...MI96KmqLPF5AIVAcJkCh1o_QePEAQYASABEgLjmvD_BwE
-3 Row, https://www.mishimoto.com/nissan-240sx-s13-performance-aluminum-radiator-89-94-sr20-triple.html
-Dual electric fan shroud, https://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-nissan-240sx-aluminum-fan-shroud-89.html
The 3 row aluminum radiator would be nice insurance against potential overheating when heavily loaded, in the heat, running AC, and on rough terrain. My best friend is an aluminum boat welder by trade so I’m confident I’ll be able to modify/add any brackets needed to securely mount it.
My hesitation lies with the potential reliability, or lack thereof, in remote areas. Aluminum is more prone to damage and much more difficult to repair in less than ideal circumstances. Additionally, I’ve no doubt the electric fans draw more than enough air, w/potentially less parasitic drag, but should they fail, they can’t be easily repaired on the trail whereas the clutch fan can be physically wired/zip tied to run constantly, ensuring you can limp home.
I’ve saved up and paid a pretty penny for my brand new motor and want to adequately protect that investment, so the few hundred dollar price differential between the two setups isn’t much of a concern. I’m confident the aluminum radiators and electric fans are amply reliable, they’re spec’d on nearly every new car, and maximizing my MPG is important to me, yet despite that I’m hesitant about going in that direction. Cooling is one aspect of a truck that can really ******** you if it fails in a rough spot, and my luck typically follows Murphy’s Law.
I’d welcome any good advice or input.
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