D2 won't shift into Low Range

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
My D2 suddenly won't shift into low range. I have the linkage from an 87 RRC to engage the diff lock. everything usually works fine. now it won't let me into low range. the diff lock still works.

is there a solenoid that would keep it locked into High. I think there is, but is that hard to by-pass or delete?
 

adelatoa

Adventurer
There might be a geometry issue with the linkage. See if by getting under and moving it while someone else attempts from above and see if my changing the geometry and it gets it moving. Make sure to choke wheels and apply you e brake before attempting this.
 

UK4X4

Expedition Leader
Happened to me - the linkage folded- had to remove all and weld on some stiffening to the Y piece
 

UK4X4

Expedition Leader
If I remember rightly I removed mine when I installed the D1 linkage into my D2....just another piece of electrics the truck didn't need
 

99Discovery

Adventurer
Your solenoid can fail, and probably is your issue. Some people remove it, but I was worried about the potential for water ingress, so instead of removing it, I took a dremmel to the plunger and cut it off flush and re installed it.

Your going to have to open up the tranny tunnel again to get to it (it was actually the HARDEST part of the install for me, very hard to figure out how to contort to get in there). As you take it apart you'll be able to tell if you have a bent/loose linkage or if it is the solenoid.

For my vehicle, I'm worried about a loosening or bent linkage as I had to jury rig the D1 setup in order to make it work. Luckily, I've found if you are rolling slightly it requires minimal force to shift in and out of range.

For anybody who comes to this site researching, this is one of many reasons why I advocate spending the money for the Ashcroft shaft. Sure you can get a D1 linkage for $100 (IF you get all the parts), but the work required and the fact that your "kit" won't be in tip-top shape (my $200 rubber gaiter was torn) makes it not worth the issue. Ashcroft is plug-and-play and you'll at least have factory support if you don't get all the equipment.

Good luck. Even if you open her up and find a tweaked D1 linkage, I'd still cut/remove the solenoid while I was in there!

Oh, and to answer your other question: I don't think you can "bypass" it. It is closed in its un-powered state. When you put the vehicle in Neutral, it pulls back the plunger allowing you to shift. This is why it's a horrible design if your solenoid fails on the trail: There is no way to fix it without removing your center console. NOT FUN in Moab temps!
 

JSBriggs

Adventurer
The solenoid is actuated via the brake switch. Best to pull it. Seal up up the wire hole in the solenoid housing housing, and the housing to the case with 'the right stuff'.

-Jeff
 

94Discovery

Adventurer
Remove it long gone on my D1 and i removed the shifter solenoid also but if you have kids that like to play in the car it is a safty issue ,in europ they do not have them maybe there kids are smarter :sombrero:
 

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
My kids know I'll sacrifice them if they touch my land rovers. respect is taught through threats. LOL
 

lwg

Member
As others have said check the solenoid. Mine went out a while back, I removed and sealed it up and have had zero issues since.


Sent from my toaster using Tapatalk
 

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
I finally got the solenoid out. it was trashed. it fell apart as I pulled it out of the vehicle. I washed it up in the parts washer and put a bunch of silicone on it. it should be sealed now. My shifter linkage for the high- neutral - low was bent as well. I did some welding to it and took all the slop out of it. it shouldn't bend ever again.
 

lwg

Member
Sounds like you've fixed this particular problem once and for all! I was glad to get the solenoid out of mine as well, just one more thing that could cause me issues when in remote areas. I tend to use low range a lot.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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