Considering a Toyota Tundra to Haul an XploreRV XR22

tacollie

Glamper
Does range between fuel stops matter? Thats were the Tundra falls flat on its face especially if your dragging a box thats up past the 80% max load rating. Yes it will drag 10,000 lbs but it only does 5-6mpg doing it. So beyond the load numbers look at fuel capacity and mileage performance with a box in that weight range?.
My only interest in a larger camp trailer is pop top low roof road mode like say Taxa Mantis given my heavy tow pack Expedition will do 14-15mpg going anywhere with it. Currently my 4x6 I do 20-21mpg going anywhere with it which is actually better than my Subaru ??.
In my experience the 3.5 Ecoboost used more gas towing than the Tundra. Those turbos allow the the little 3.5 to really chug the gas and hold speed?.
 
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Deleted member 9101

Guest
In my experience the 3.5 Ecoboost used more gas towing than the Tundra. Those turbos allow the the little 3.5 to really chug the gas and hold speed?.


If the 3.5 is in front, it will definitely suck more fuel than a Tundra while towing (it will also be miles ahead of it).

If the Tundra is up front and the 3.5 is just staying behind it, then they will get about the same MPG.
 

Miles_Sisu

New member
Miles_Sisu,

We can run rough numbers and draw some conclusions…
  • Tundra Payload: 1450lbs
  • 2 Occupants: 360
  • Luggage: 50
  • Vehicle Mods & Accessories: 150
  • Additional Gear Allowance: 100
* Remaining Payload / Tongue Weight Allowance: 790lbs
  • XR22 dry weight: 5200
  • Tongue weight: 425
  • Propane & 80lbs of batteries = 500 tongue
  • Fresh Water, 30 gals: 250lbs (~15% transferred to truck = 535 tongue)
  • Food & Beer: 30
  • Luggage & Furnishings: 150
  • Additional Gear & Toy Allowance: 500!
*Total Trailer Weight: 6650lbs

*Total Tongue Weight at 10%: 650lbs

*Remaining Truck Payload: 140lbs

The math indicates that even with the lowest available towing capacity of 8800lbs you can load up that trailer with a lot of cargo and still be below all the maximum rated capacities.

Its my opinion that factory rated capacities represent the maximum prescribed capacities as agreed upon between the engineering, legal & marketing departments. There is an enormous safety margin built into these truck's ratings and as a platform they’re capable of safely and reliably performing well above their published ratings.

For example: just adding springs to an otherwise stock truck in Australia can increase payload by 20-30%, as certified by federally licensed engineers. Further anecdotal evidence supporting my claim are all of the fully built and laden rigs featured here and other websites that are grossly overloaded yet travel great distances with superb track records for reliability and road safety, albiet with suspension & tires upgraded to match the mission.

This is to say that loading a Tundra up to it’s maximum factory rating isn’t “cutting it close” in any practical sense what-so-ever assuming your load distribution, hitch, ride height, trailer brakes and driving habits are all configured appropriately.

What the truck can do, what it should do and what it's rated to do are very much subject to your perspective on math, insurance liability, fuel economy, passing power and "peace of mind". As per Toyota’s R&D the 5.7L Tundra is plenty. But is it future proof for you?

@Neosapian,

Thank you for the breakdown. I had some rough napkin math for this plan originally and your post reminded me of this Jurassic Park quote:

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I think my conclusion is that there are many other truck + camper considerations that would make a lot more sense WRT fuel economy alone. Redlining a new vehicle (in this economy) for 1500 miles straight off the lot does not do much for the "peace of mind" aspect.

I do think it is possible, but I think a more careful (and patient) rig setup is probably the correct way to approach this.

Also for my first post- I am learning heaps from this forum. What an awesome community.
 

peekay

Adventurer
I have a 5.7 Tundra and a 5.0 Ford F150. I also own a 29' Outback trailer that can fit a 650lb utility quad in the garage. The towed weigh is around 7500-8000lb. Either truck will tow that trailer -- and your trailer, with ease. In fact, you will be faster than any semi up or down any significant hill. I'm sorry, but the advice for a 3/4 ton truck for a 23', 5300lb trailer, is silly. I suppose, in theory, a 3/4 ton will tow it better than a 1/2 ton -- but using that same logic, you should get a F-450 with dual rear wheels.
 
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Deleted member 9101

Guest
I'm sorry, but the advice for a 3/4 ton truck for a 23', 5300lb trailer, is silly. I suppose, in theory, a 3/4 ton will tow it better than a 1/2 ton -- but using that same logic, you should get a F-450 with dual rear wheels.


Ohhh... I guess you didn't get the memo: according to this Forum 1/2 ton trucks are nothing more than minivans with a bed and incapable of safely towing over 500 pounds. Anything over 500 pounds requires a 1 ton, long bed, diesel, 4.56 gears, with a 4" lift and 37s.

Also: I tow 7k with my F150 and have zero issues...lol.
 

peekay

Adventurer
Ohhh... I guess you didn't get the memo: according to this Forum 1/2 ton trucks are nothing more than minivans with a bed and incapable of safely towing over 500 pounds. Anything over 500 pounds requires a 1 ton, long bed, diesel, 4.56 gears, with a 4" lift and 37s.

Also: I tow 7k with my F150 and have zero issues...lol.
seriously. It's nuts. I think a lot of people love to sit around and theorize about stuff, instead of being out there doing it. If they did, there's no way they'd be telling people a 23' trailer needs a 3/4 ton. I used to tow a 23' 4000lb dry travel trailer with my Tacoma, and it was fine. A bit slower going up the hill, but it was dialed in with a properly adjusted weight distribution system, and it certainly wasn't the slowest vehicle on the freeway going up or down big grades.
 

Adam_Cole

Member
Sometimes there’s actually the opposite affect when pairing a truck that’s too big to a smaller trailer.
I was transporting travel trailers from Indiana to Tacoma, WA on a weekly basis driving a 1 ton Silverado dually. Any trailer I towed under 26 feet the ride was incredibly harsh and bouncy, The trucks suspension was too stiff and rear end would pick up when hitting any type of large dip in the highway.
That being said; I do appreciate the power, the stopping ability, the 10 gears, and the ability to maintain the suggested/legal speed using exhaust brake and engine compression when going down 6% grades. I can actually travel down the mountain passes in western Montana, Idaho, and Washington without touching the brakes once, until someone in their overloaded 1/2 ton truck and trailer cut in front of me ;)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Neosapian

Innate Outdoor Co
Ohhh... I guess you didn't get the memo: according to this Forum 1/2 ton trucks are nothing more than minivans with a bed and incapable of safely towing over 500 pounds. Anything over 500 pounds requires a 1 ton, long bed, diesel, 4.56 gears, with a 4" lift and 37s.

Also: I tow 7k with my F150 and have zero issues...lol.

Spot on. Anecdotally, the vehicles I most commonly see grossly overloaded are 3/4 ton diesels and 1 ton single rear wheel trucks. Australia's most popular tow vehicles are Landcruiser 200 and mid size pickups, not full size HD trucks.

My 4.7L 4runner's specs are: 1200lbs payload, 7000k towing, 12k combined.

Next year I'll be towing a 22' (26' overall) travel trailer throughout the western half of the USA for 4 months. More than 8000 towing miles. With a very generous 1000lbs of trailer payload allowance including fresh water the trailer will be 5800lbs. I'll be close to max GCWR and well within all of Toyota's specs including the adjusted weight of my truck after all of my mods & accessories.

For reference and reassurance, according to Australian engineers, my particular Old Man Emu suspension when installed on the Prado 120 (identical to 4runner) nets a legal payload increase of 418lbs. In addition, E range LT tires add a significant safety margin beyond factory ratings.

My point is that a 4runner is not optimal a tow vehicle yet its still demonstrably safe & capable when the rig is configured & operated responsibly. Certainly the same is true for the much larger Tundra. I tend to trust Toyota's consensus more than the internet's. Although from a value & performance perspective, domestic diesels tend to have a better cost-to-capability ratio when towing is the primary mission.
 
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Deleted member 9101

Guest
Certainly the same is true for the much larger Tundra. I tend to trust Toyota's consensus more than the internet's. Although from a value & performance perspective, domestic diesels tend to have a better cost-to-capability ratio when towing is the primary mission.


The problem with the current generator Tundra is you get a 3/4 ton ride, 3/4 ton handling, 3/4 ton fuel economy, 3/4 ton price tag... With out the 3/4 ton payload or towing rating...haha.
 

tacollie

Glamper
I've towed 5k pounds trailers with Tacomas, a Tundra, and now a F250. The Tacoma would do it but it sucked at it. Especially in Colorado. If the op already owned a Tundra I would say run it. He's looking at buying a truck to pull a trailer. F150 is the only half ton I would consider but I wouldn't rule out a 3/4 either.
 

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