Conqueror trailer battery charging questions

XJBANKER

Explorer
So I am getting ready to hook a charge wire to my 7 pin adapter. I am planning on using a 10 Gage wire straight from the battery. My question is that I have not looked very far into how the conqueror system is set up but wondering if it will charge when plugged into my jeep or does it go through the charging system? Do I have to have the charge switch and isolator switch on for it to work or is it just a direct trickle charge? Also I am thinking of using a optima red top battery to replace the one that came with the trailer I have an oppotunity to get a new in the box one for $100 or should I spend $60 more and get a blue top?
 

Hilldweller

SE Expedition Society
A BlueTop would be the more appropriate battery; RedTops aren't deep cycle batteries and you'd kill the poor thing quickly if you tried.

I gave up on trying to charge off the alternator and rely on my supplemental smart charger. The built-in charger took a dump on the 3rd day of our trip out to Overland Expo and I haven't taken it apart yet to check it out.
Eventually I'm just going to gut it and install something from Martyn and Mario.
 

Titanpat57

Expedition Leader
How about coming off the battery with a fused 30 amp link, then directly to the plug, and from the plug directly to the trailer battery? (sounds like what you mean) It should charge off the truck system, and the altenator /electrical system won't overcharge it. If you needed to charge it, you could always let the truck run for a bit.

Obviously some care has to be taken not to drain down the truck battery if you remain connected, you also mentioned a disconnect. My last build had a 45 amp converter that had a trickle feature and a quick charge feature(20 amps) I believe.

I used in conjuction with a 1000 watt generator, but that had the capabilities to charge either 12v or 120ac. That little generator was about 185$ IIRC, and was 2 stroke. Ran for 8 hours on a tank, but I usually ran it just for an hour or so to top off the 12v system. Running all LED's will also help to extend your battery life. Solar looks slick, especially some of the roll up collectors AT has.

Good luck, Pat

The next build will have the same system, except I'm planning on dropping the coin on a Honda iE2000w just to simplify things
 

XJBANKER

Explorer
A BlueTop would be the more appropriate battery; RedTops aren't deep cycle batteries and you'd kill the poor thing quickly if you tried.

I gave up on trying to charge off the alternator and rely on my supplemental smart charger. The built-in charger took a dump on the 3rd day of our trip out to Overland Expo and I haven't taken it apart yet to check it out.
Eventually I'm just going to gut it and install something from Martyn and Mario.

So do you have to have the charger on to charge fom the jeep or will it directy charge when plugged in? I know my battery that I have now is about shot. I have the light in the back that came with it and I added two florecents one on the tent side and one on the kitchen side and they will run about an hour and a half until the battery starts to die. I want to add some led strip lights in the tent. I am going to the San Rafael Swell for four days the end of this month And trying to get this all set up.
 

Honu

lost on the mainland
these batteries are great have a ton of good power and are quality
http://store.solar-electric.com/pvx-1295.html

more than a blue top but also feel they are much better quality

plus they fit the battery area perfect in the conqueror trailers

as far as charging ? I am also not sure and am going to redo my rig and use a switch to by pass my internal one just to be safe ?

I also have to replace my fans in my stock setup since they are howling like crazy these days
 

XJBANKER

Explorer
Ugh looks like a nice battery, but the price is killer. Where the only thing I am running right Now is lights and the water pump I don't think I canjustify the cost. Does anyone have a charge wire hooked up from the tow vehicle now?

What I really need to know is do I need to hav the system turned on when driving through the 7 pin or will it automatically
charge it? Anybody know? I think I am going
to look at a lEd deep cycle. It looks like the original batteries in them are led ones
 

racingjason

Adventurer
Hi Steve,

I am not sure if you noticed our system when we were down last month but we ran 6 ga cable (both positive and negative) directly from the truck battery through an Anderson connector to the trailer battery. I wired a Maxi Fuse in line and a 75amp switch to (manually) disconnect the trailer when the truck was not running. The system worked well over the last month and we had no problems keeping the battery charged even with the fridge.
 

DrMoab

Explorer
The system worked well over the last month and we had no problems keeping the battery charged even with the fridge.
Thats probably overkill for what steve is looking for although i bet it works well. Speaking of that fridge...how are you liking it so far? Back on topic somewhat. Have you thought about running the second charge wire through an isolator? It would in effect give you the same isolation that the cut off switch does without having to manually shut it off.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
When "isolator" is mentioned are diode type isolators being considered, or more like a Voltage Sensitive Relay / Automatic Charge Relay? I wouldn't bother with the diode type of isolator. Could even go with the simple Cole-Hersee continuous duty relay triggered by an ignition source.
 

XJBANKER

Explorer
I put a deep cycle marine battery in today and ran a charge wire through the seven pin adapter. I think that it should work well for now. I just have lights and hopefullye a fridge in the future.
 

Hilldweller

SE Expedition Society
So do you have to have the charger on to charge fom the jeep or will it directy charge when plugged in? I know my battery that I have now is about shot. I have the light in the back that came with it and I added two florecents one on the tent side and one on the kitchen side and they will run about an hour and a half until the battery starts to die. I want to add some led strip lights in the tent. I am going to the San Rafael Swell for four days the end of this month And trying to get this all set up.
I don't charge from the Jeep at all; I either use my smart charger off a 110 outlet or use my generator.
I bought some LED lights at an autoparts store and wired a Hella plug to one; then I attached magnets and can place the light where I want. I mounted the other one in the box.
My battery is good for 3-5 days, depending on outdoor temperatures and how cold I have the fridge set.

For 4 days and no fridge, almost any healthy battery should work for you.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Is the charge wire in the tow vehicle's trailer light socket just connected directly to the vehicle's battery?

If so, I'd like to suggest that you purchase and install something like this $25 item:
NAPA: Cole-Hersee Solenoid
24106.jpg

Charge wire goes thru it on the big terminals. Connect and ignition-on only source to the small terminal. That way when the key is off the batteries are disconnected from each other and you don't risk discharging the starting battery while in camp if you forget to unplug the trailer.
 

XJBANKER

Explorer
Is the charge wire in the tow vehicle's trailer light socket just connected directly to the vehicle's battery?

If so, I'd like to suggest that you purchase and install something like this $25 item:
NAPA: Cole-Hersee Solenoid
24106.jpg

Charge wire goes thru it on the big terminals. Connect and ignition-on only source to the small terminal. That way when the key is off the batteries are disconnected from each other and you don't risk discharging the starting battery while in camp if you forget to unplug the trailer.

That is a good idea, I was just planning on unplugging the trailer, but sometimes I am forgetful and this could help me in a jam.
 

racingjason

Adventurer
Thats probably overkill for what steve is looking for although i bet it works well. Speaking of that fridge...how are you liking it so far? Back on topic somewhat. Have you thought about running the second charge wire through an isolator? It would in effect give you the same isolation that the cut off switch does without having to manually shut it off.

Fridge worked great, particularly after we used a couple of rare earth magnets to keep the lids open (they bump into the tailgate so do not open all the way). I have a 250A isolator that can be remotely activated sitting on the shelf but when I looked at the amperages that I was going to be dealing with (limited by the 30A fuse) it seemed to be simpler to use the 75A switch. I may still wire in a smaller isolator to make it all automatic but at this point my trailer battery will last at least 3 days in hot weather so if I can't remember to pull the switch before three days is up I deserve what I get. :sombrero: My situation is additionally complicated by the combination of a 24v truck and a mixed 12/24 trailer.
 

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