Connectors and crimpers

I've had mine for 5 years and I've been able to crimp every size of cable I've ever needed. All of the dies are AWG and the hydraulics still work like new. Just lucky I guess.
If I were you I would go play the lottery. I picked one up about the same time you have had yours, for a quick job that I was without my good greenlee crimper. My dies are definitely metric but usable if you are aware of what a good quality crimp looks like and use the proper lugs with it. It will work with AWG sizes but with a mix of thick wall and heavy wall lugs. Not all dies work with all lugs. IE it may work for 2AWG thin wall lugs and not heavy wall lugs, but with 1/0 it may work with heavy wall lugs but not thin wall lugs.

Yes it may mean you need to stop before a complete crimp cycle to prevent over crimping ( Crimp dies bottomed out). This does not mean that it is a good crimp and may not pass pull out testing, it just has the appearance of a good crimp.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
I've had mine for 5 years and I've been able to crimp every size of cable I've ever needed. All of the dies are AWG and the hydraulics still work like new. Just lucky I guess.
Wow! please link to the model then, not the same ones I've seen there.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Yes milspec pull tests are needed for a new given die/lug pairing, even cutting a cross section to confirm gas-tight cold welding.

That IMO should all be included when someone says "it works", along with consistent repeatability without skillz or judgment calls required.
 

kmacafee

Adventurer
Yes milspec pull tests are needed for a new given die/lug pairing, even cutting a cross section to confirm gas-tight cold welding.

That IMO should all be included when someone says "it works", along with consistent repeatability without skillz or judgment calls required.
I've never had anything crimped with this tool fail despite tens of thousands of miles of hard use. I need tools that are affordable and work- this does. As for milspec, the vast majority of equipment used in overlanding isn't built to that standard.
 
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luthj

Engineer In Residence
Unless something has changed in the last year, that harbor freight unit is actually relabeled metric dies. Not that they won't work if you choose a lug with the right wall thickness.

Even AWG dies won't work with all lugs of the same size, as the dimensions vary quite a bit depending on MFG/wall thickness, and strand count.
 

kmacafee

Adventurer
Unless something has changed in the last year, that harbor freight unit is actually relabeled metric dies. Not that they won't work if you choose a lug with the right wall thickness.

Even AWG dies won't work with all lugs of the same size, as the dimensions vary quite a bit depending on MFG/wall thickness, and strand count.
Whatever. It was affordable and works well.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
No reason to take it personally. I had a friend buy one, and discovered it wouldn't work on his (already bought) 4/0 lugs. I am sure the tool works well, but its up to they buyer to confirm it works with their preferred lug type/brand.

A more expensive pro-grade tool will guarantee their dies for a given brand/gauge size group.
 

shade

Well-known member

I have one, or one of the many similar products. It works, and it may be able to deliver an excellent crimp, but I can't say to what level of repeatability. Even if someone went to the trouble of identifying the best lugs to use with their tool, I wouldn't have much confidence that I could replicate their findings with my copy since I don't know how well the dies and frames are machined. I'm keeping it around for swaging cable and the like.

A more expensive pro-grade tool will guarantee their dies for a given brand/gauge size group.

And that's at the heart of reliable crimping. I popped for one because I could afford it, and I'd rather spend money up front for a known-good result.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
I have even used hammer crimpers myself on a few projects where the dies at work didn't match the lugs I had (personal usage). They worked fine, but if I wasn't paying attention, its not hard to get under-crimped.

There is quite a bit of leeway for hobbyist applications, especially if you only do a handful of crimps per year.
 

94Discovery

Adventurer
Where did you learn that? The acceptable criteria when I was taught was wicking must stop at the insulation. That's per NASA, though, so their workmanship standards were pretty specific and connectors are almost always crimped.

I'm just curious who recommends that since the underlying reason is you don't want to move the stress point up under the insulation, away from the support of the terminal and where it can't be inspected. It's bad if the wire fatigues and the insulation is holding it together.

View attachment 526665
 

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Joe917

Explorer
FYI
The best wire termination info I have found:
 

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