Composite Door Jamb Material (Now Custom Entry Door)

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
Hi all, I am considering building a new composite door to replace our current one. If I could find a supplier of some composite door jamb material it would make things way easier. Anyone know a supplier? I want composite to minimize thermal bridging. I would hope to get a composite panel from @Victorian for the actual panel and use a latch from KCT.
 

Victorian

Approved Vendor : Total Composites
Thanks @Victorian, I'll take a look.

Not sure this will work or if they even can do this but I just sent GXV an email inquiring about a custom door.
These “European” entry doors are always build before the camper is assembled. It’s a pretty involved process. Retrofitting these type of doors is very difficult. Better to explain in person…. Your best bet would be a door from outbound at this point.
 

Darwin

Explorer
Just go Outbound and be done with it, although clarify if it will work with 50 mm panel thickness, since I believe 60 mm is pretty standard in Europe i.e. Boxmanfacture
 

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
Looking at the dimensions and the current hole we already have, plus the interior cabinetry I don't think an Outbound door will fit very well. I'll do some more measuring but I am not super hopeful. They are also 6-7 months out for delivery. We were hoping to be on a ship to South America then.

I had sent GXV here in the US an inquiry about a door, but got no response (probably should call them). I just sent an inquiry to Morotcraft in the UK. Their door looks really nice (from the pictures) to see if it is at all possible. Plus the dimensions are a bit closer to my current hole.
 

Darwin

Explorer
Just another heads up, but the Euro right now is trading even with the dollar first time in a long time it's been this low so good time to buy from Europe.
 

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
It seems that I have exhausted my options for getting an off the shelf (sort of as they all seem to be built by order, but in standard sizes) composite entry door. Our door cutout and interior cabinets leave too little space for a standard size. GXV won't make a door. So I am now back to building one myself. Not really the path I had hoped but I am pretty sure I can build one. We have been meeting up with a number of professionally built trucks here in Alaska and the door frames do not look too difficult to mold. I'll lay out my current plan and if anyone has any thoughts please jump in.

Epoxy resin will be used throughout. Probably MAS Mas Epoxies - Time Saving Epoxy Resins as I have used them before and I like the mix ratios and low odor.

Will probably paint the entire door as opposed to gelcoat as I doubt I will get a perfect finish after molding without some fairing. I will get color matched rattle cans with 2k paint like we used on the truck cab (not the rattle can bit, but I don't have a place to spray or a compressor to do it like I did with the cab).

For the frame I will build a mold out of wood (probably poplar as it is pretty straight and true). This will be the full frame with a step in it and will be coated in Duratec Gray Surfacing Primer in stock | Fibre Glast . Then a few coats of mold release wax.

The fiberglass will probably start with a mat and then some cloth for strength.

For the door I am planning on a 4 part composite. Fiberglass, marine plywood, Divinycell then fiberglass. The Divinycell will probably be the 1" 5lb one. I have used this stuff in the past and it bonds great with epoxy resin. I will make a mold out of poplar and Masonite and coat with the surfacing primer. The hinge edge and lock edge will be reinforced with poplar embedded in the glass (or I may just layup heavier fiberglass, which may be better). I will use a full length SS heavy duty piano hinge.

The door lock will be the KCT Syslock 3 point locking along with their adhesive backed gasket.

For the window I am still searching for a supplier for a pressure compensated double pane tinted glass panel (if anyone knows please let me know). I would mold a custom frame for it so just need the glass. I need to check with Tern about a small roller shade like we have in our bathroom.

I am on the fence, since I will mold the entire bit to mimic the rounded corners of our current door. I like the look and I can say I have seen small corner cracks in some of the very expensive trucks I have been seeing. If so I would build the entire door/frame before removing the current door. I would bond in the door using Sika 252.

My rough estimate is I think I can get this done in about 2 weeks if I plan ahead and have everything sourced and ready to roll.
 

Alloy

Well-known member
Some ideas:
- 3D printing
- CNC router
- mfg. that makes thermal break doors/windows
- autobody shop can base/clear the paint
- frame cut/built up from pulltruded shapes. Henkel could recommend adhesives.
- a wood mold would be difficult to get true.
- composite (marine) panel instead of plywood for the door panel
- marine door window mfg.

 

Victorian

Approved Vendor : Total Composites
One of the issues ALL composite doors have is warping! Make sure you compensate for that.
We are in contact with a company in the USA designing a new one for us. The main focus will be thermal efficiency, FRP all around and zero warping. Unfortunately, we are still a long way away from releasing anything.

Good luck!
 

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
One of the issues ALL composite doors have is warping! Make sure you compensate for that.
We are in contact with a company in the USA designing a new one for us. The main focus will be thermal efficiency, FRP all around and zero warping. Unfortunately, we are still a long way away from releasing anything.

Good luck!
Hey Andreas, any thoughts on how to minimize the chance of warping? I molded a hardtop dodger for our sailboat out of grid scored divinycell, epoxy and fiberglass using a Masonite mold fixed to the previous fabric dodger frame. It did have a curve in it but it never warped (or delaminated) even though it was painted dark green and saw a lot of tropical sun. Sorta thought of using the same method. The external plywood was to stiffen the door and give it some heft and a solid bond for the locks.
 

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
Some ideas:
- 3D printing
- CNC router
- mfg. that makes thermal break doors/windows
- autobody shop can base/clear the paint
- frame cut/built up from pulltruded shapes. Henkel could recommend adhesives.
- a wood mold would be difficult to get true.
- composite (marine) panel instead of plywood for the door panel
- marine door window mfg.

I have also checked with a friend that builds high performance semi custom power catamarans. They make a very nice door but is the wrong size. With complete composite doors the mold is the time consuming expensive part. As far as pre-made pultrusions I have searched high and low for what seems right with no luck. All the professional built doors I have seen either use aluminum for the frame or are custom molded. Since for me aluminum is out, custom molding is it.
 

Alloy

Well-known member
I have also checked with a friend that builds high performance semi custom power catamarans. They make a very nice door but is the wrong size. With complete composite doors the mold is the time consuming expensive part. As far as pre-made pultrusions I have searched high and low for what seems right with no luck. All the professional built doors I have seen either use aluminum for the frame or are custom molded. Since for me aluminum is out, custom molding is it.
Residential aluminum has a thermal break.

I've made both (full size) aluminum and plastic (small) frames so I'm interesed to see what shape you need. Can you post a picture of the door frame?
 

Victorian

Approved Vendor : Total Composites
Hey Andreas, any thoughts on how to minimize the chance of warping? I molded a hardtop dodger for our sailboat out of grid scored divinycell, epoxy and fiberglass using a Masonite mold fixed to the previous fabric dodger frame. It did have a curve in it but it never warped (or delaminated) even though it was painted dark green and saw a lot of tropical sun. Sorta thought of using the same method. The external plywood was to stiffen the door and give it some heft and a solid bond for the locks.
the warping comes from the temperature differences ( inside of camper-outside temps). I can’t give away our secret sauce but you need something in the door to stiffen it up.
 

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