coin holder delete and replacement with switch panel- how does one do it?

lcavalletti

Observer
What is everyone doing when adding switches like lights, lockers, 4wd ect switches to their dash. The best location by far on the dash is not under your steering wheel , but where the coin holder goes. By far the best location. Is there a switch panel that fits inside this area plug and play aftermarket? or does one have to make some sort of plate themselves and screw it in (not a very factory look IMHO). I am adding an ARB rear locker, and LED lights to my aluminess bumper and would like these switches to be right in front of me. Thanks for any and all replies.
 

Timjim

Observer
There is standard Ford econoline option for upfitter switches. They switch relays in the battery junction box under the hood.

I am familiar with 2010+ models, mine is a 2013. You can buy the switches and if the factory harness is in there, it's pretty easy. If not, then it requires more effort.

What year is your rig??
 

lcavalletti

Observer
mine is a 2013 5.4

when you say factory upfitter what does that mean? ford actually makes a factory switchplate to replace the coinholder? that woudl be awesome if so. I can run all the wires through im, not too worried about that part. I dont think there would be any wire loom behind the switchplate as it is.

I just googled ford factory switchplate and all i found was the replacement switchplate for the coinholder for older pre 2008 models. Is there a late model option? I would liek all my switches right in front of me and possibly an amp meter for the battery.
 
Upfitter is a term used for companies that buy cab and chassis, then up fit them into delivery trucks, ambulances, RVs, etc. For Fords, the optional switches are called upfitter switches. If available for your vehicle, they will have a relay pack and the switch module that typically replaces the coin holder. The vehicle will probably be pre-wired for them so all you have to do is find the correct wire bundle and plug them in. There would be fused, relay controlled wires that you would connect your devices to. On my F350, the first 2 switches are rated at 25 amps, #3 at 15 amps, and #4 at 10 amps. They are only active with the ignition on
 

lcavalletti

Observer
sorry its an E350 Regular body 2013.
Im not looking to plug in any of these switches to the starter battery. All of them will be going to my aux battery including the locker. I saw that someone on the forum used the same location for a switchplate, but I cant find anything that will fit in there unless I make it myself.

The guy in the below link did on his E450 RV. But he paid $30.00 for a small piece of custom plastic plate to be made certainly there is something that will fit in there without all that hassle of making a plate at a plastic company? Ill just trace it out and cut my own plastic if thats the case.

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f27/ford-e-450-dash-upgrade-e-350-too-i-think-849.html
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
sorry its an E350 Regular body 2013.
Im not looking to plug in any of these switches to the starter battery. All of them will be going to my aux battery including the locker. I saw that someone on the forum used the same location for a switchplate, but I cant find anything that will fit in there unless I make it myself.

The guy in the below link did on his E450 RV. But he paid $30.00 for a small piece of custom plastic plate to be made certainly there is something that will fit in there without all that hassle of making a plate at a plastic company? Ill just trace it out and cut my own plastic if thats the case.

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f27/ford-e-450-dash-upgrade-e-350-too-i-think-849.html

Yeah there are a lot of different ways to approach this. The most "factory" look would be to go with the genuine upfitter switches as mentioned. You could just put some black plastic and switches in there for a lot less though, for sure.
 

Timjim

Observer
If you don't want to use the factory wiring that triggers relays in the main battery junction box, then run a smallish power wire from your house battery up there and then switched wires back to relays. Take a look at marine switches, they are usually the best. You can cut a custom piece of plastic and pop the coin holder area out and mount your switches up there.

If you decide to use the factory wiring and switches be advised that there is no relay box like on the F-Series Trucks, the relays sit in the battery junction box as well as the fuses for the relayed circuits. There will be a bundle of blunt end wires under the hood that the relayed circuits terminate at.

If you just want the factory switches and run your own circuits, you will need a quick disconnect. You may have one under the dash that you could cut and rewire.

Best of luck.
 

silvrzuki77

explorer
27a814eedb840223f6e82007db671e79.jpg


It's not plastic. They cut it from aluminum and you can design it how you want it.

Frontpanelexpress.com


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

lcavalletti

Observer
Thats the factory look I would like. ! would you by chance have your template or at least the outer dimensions and curve. I could use to order one, Id like hole for about 4 switches and a voltmeter/ lighter socket hole? I am assuming the software will let you add them and know the sizes?
 

silvrzuki77

explorer
Sure do. Pm me your email I will send it over. I took measurements off of my switches and gauges and than played with the program. Really easy to build what you want.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,531
Messages
2,875,588
Members
224,922
Latest member
Randy Towles
Top