Christo's tent trailer

[Christo54]

So, I just started building a tent trailer for my family and me to do some extended trips in remote areas. It probably won't be anything too out of the ordinary. we are avid rock climbers and surfers with two small kids, so because some of the places we like to go are very difficult to get to, I'll be focusing on keeping the trailer relatively low in height and ground clearance to keep a lower center of gravity. I'd rather drag it over a few big rocks than worry about rolling it over. it will have 35's to match my Toyota. All I've done so far is cut and lay the 2x3" tubing for the frame. I need to have this done by April cause we have a trip planned with some people to Baja then. this will be interesting cause I learned to weld like, yesterday.

out

 

[Christo54]

Alright, got all the steel cleaned up and ready to start tacking together, but first I thought I’d post the first problem I’m running into; much of the steel I’m using is stuff I had around or picked up off the classifieds, so the trailer’s dimensions have very little room for change. Long story short the Timbren axle-less suspension needs to be placed right where a crossmember will be. So, I found that if I move the crossmember back just a few inches, it will fall in between two mounting holes of the timbren arms with enough room for nuts and washers and will not interfere with the vertical bolts. Also, I will still be able to fabricate a mounting plate for all but the farthest back thru-frame bolt. I can’t find anything in the instructions or online examples that have addressed this problem in a similar ways, or even speak about this problem, but it seams to allow me to keep the tires perfectly centered on the trailer and the trailer balanced. Otherwise I would have to move the tires several inches backward or the tongue tube and first crossmember several inches forward. Anyway, if anyone has objections, please let me know, Otherwise I’m doin it...

 

[zgfiredude]

Disclaimer: I'm not all that familiar with details of the Timbren set up but have looked at quite a few set ups.

Isn't there a "cross member" IN the Timbren set up? IE, isn't there a cross tube bridging the two in the 2x2 square openings in each side? If so, wouldn't that effectively replace the frame cross member in essentially the same (almost) location?

I could be way off base, but just sharing a thought.

 

[old_CWO]

Utility type trailers customarily set the axle a little past the middle of the cargo area. The idea is to keep it slightly tongue heavy for sway prevention and stable when unhitched and laden. A sort of "rule of thumb" for general purpose trailers is to place it at the 60/40 mark. Looking at the specs for the legendary M416, that axle is placed 55/45. It's box is 72" long and the axle centerline is 38" from the front edge of the box.

All things being equal, it's probably okay or even preferable to move the axle back a little.

 

[Christo54]

Isn't there a "cross member" IN the Timbren set up? IE, isn't there a cross tube bridging the two in the 2x2 square openings in each side? If so, wouldn't that effectively replace the frame cross member in essentially the same (almost) location?

yeah, that is one way to install, but it lowers ground clearance and adds a snag point cause it hangs lower than the frame,so I would really like to avoid using it. The other way Timbren mentions is by fabricating a plate that reinforces the frame at the attachment point. I would rather do this...

 

[Christo54]

Utility type trailers customarily set the axle a little past the middle of the cargo area. The idea is to keep it slightly tongue heavy for sway prevention and stable when unhitched and laden. A sort of "rule of thumb" for general purpose trailers is to place it at the 60/40 mark. Looking at the specs for the legendary M416, that axle is placed 55/45. It's box is 72" long and the axle centerline is 38" from the front edge of the box.

All things being equal, it's probably okay or even preferable to move the axle back a little.

that makes sense. I did notice when reviewing trailer designs that the m416 is set back a bit. I did read a manual on trailer building though and it said to have the wheels 70% back from the tip of the tongue. On a 4x6 trailer with a 4ft tongue that puts it squarely in the middle of the box. But like I said, im not really sure about any of this. If it’s actually better to move it back a bit more from a trailer balance/handling stand point than I’m willing. Thanks for the replies guys

 

[old_CWO]

I have a vintage civilian Jeep trailer that is 4x6. When installing a new axle I set the centerline 39" from front edge of the box. It tows really stable even on big tires and doesn't seem very sensitive to cargo balance. It does have a 2" receiver at the tongue so I can "tune" tongue length and weight.

 

[Timbren]

Hey @Christo54, if you’re having questions or concerns give our suspension techs a call. They’d be happy to help you with any questions you may have regarding the suspension, placement and frame strength. Seriously, they love this stuff. - 1-800-263-3113.

 

[Christo54]

Alright, been a few weeks since I’ve worked on the trailer, but I was able to get the frame welded up and square, and now I’m installing the timbren suspension today. I’ll finish the suspension tomorrow. Here is the pic of the frame now. More tomorrow. As to my earlier question of the wheel placement; I went with 2” back from center which is what a m416 is. I just copied it’s dimensions...

 

[Christo54]

I also have a question for you more knowledgeable adventurers. I’m having a tough time deciding on what to use for the skin on this thing, I’m thinking aluminum or fiberglass but I’m open to suggestions. I will be insulating it with foam board.

also I’m curious about finishing doors and edges, I see some guys just use aluminum trim pieces, but some guys make it look seamless, and I don’t know how they’re doing it (bondo?). anyway, let me know your thoughts! any and all input is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Christo54]

Timbren suspension on

 

[LilKJ]

Nice work... it's coming together well.

 

[Christo54]

I mounted the brakes and aligned the toe for the timbren axles today. I just used some 3ft steel bar I had laying around and clamped them to the Hubs, centered on the spindle. I used two magnetic levels to make sure the bars were parallel. It seemed to work pretty well.

I’m really excited about this suspension setup, but I have to say that I’m a bit disappointed in the powder coat job on them. It was flaking off in spots coming out of the box. Also a couple of nuts needed for mounting the brakes/hubs were missing, but that wasn’t a major deal since I had some that matched in my spares can. All and all they seem good quality.

 

[Christo54]

Got the box framed out and mostly welded together tonight. The walls are 1.5” square tube 0.065 wall. The top rails are 1.75” square .083 wall. Trying to keep this puppy light and strong.

Tomorrow I’ll weld on the roof bars. They’ll be 1x2” by 0.083 wall. Then I’ll do some corner bracing and weld on the door jams.

 

[Christo54]

Finished welding the box for the frame today, and welded in the cross-bracing. Then tacked in the door stops for the rear swing out door. I used 3/4” flat bar 1/8” thick for the door jams. Ok