Chevy Colorado or GMC Canyon Setups

HarryBB

New member
Sorry. I was referring to the plate setup hiding the winch. I was not remotely clear.

Flipster V2 | Hawse and Roller Fairlead | Winch License Plate Mount - Cascadia 4x4

I mounted it upside down to keep it below the light bar so it folds downward.

So you're running cyclone filter only? The question about why AEV stopped selling them is exactly why I'm asking. I get the theory behind them, I'm just wondering if they actually work as advertised or not.


No - I mentioned removing the air box as the reason I was even looking in it to begin with. I had to move it to easily mount ARB compressor and reroute air line to fitting on passenger front by washer reservoir. I reinstalled the air box with the filter afterwards.
 

madcratebuilder

New member
My Colorado Z71 Trail Runner edition. It's getting there.

SnivFk.jpg


6WpCtD.jpg


I've been seriously considering the Syclone pre-filter for my truck. May have to get that . . .
I just ordered a Engineaire pre cleaner for mine. A 4" model should not need a adapter.
 
For people who have bed toppers on the Colorado/canyon what have you done to to try to control the dust that gets into the bed of the truck? I seem to get a ton of dust.
 

emulous74

Well-known member
For people who have bed toppers on the Colorado/canyon what have you done to to try to control the dust that gets into the bed of the truck? I seem to get a ton of dust.

A lot of the new toppers on the scene (RLD, RSI, etc.) have positive pressure vents that limit dust greatly, you could see about adding/making one on your topper.

smartcap-positive-pressure-vent_4-jpg.74030


In the Tacoma world, a lot of folks add a fan to the vent to create more positive pressure.
 
A lot of the new toppers on the scene (RLD, RSI, etc.) have positive pressure vents that limit dust greatly, you could see about adding/making one on your topper.

smartcap-positive-pressure-vent_4-jpg.74030


In the Tacoma world, a lot of folks add a fan to the vent to create more positive pressure.
Interesting! I will have to do a bit of research into this idea, thanks for you input!!
 

ChasingOurTrunks

Well-known member
For people who have bed toppers on the Colorado/canyon what have you done to to try to control the dust that gets into the bed of the truck? I seem to get a ton of dust.

Working on this right now for my build and will post up when it's done, but in the meantime I'll share my research.

The positive pressure system is basically the only way to fully and effectively "dustproof" a pickup truck box from what I can see. There are countless examples -- especially in Australia -- of the folks trying a million things under the sun from rubber bulb seals to silkaflex to raptor lining and more, but the only way to truly properly "dust proof" a typical pickup box is using positive pressure in addition to any sealing efforts. There are two reasons for this:

1) There are tons of tiny holes, gaps, etc. from manufacturing that even with hours of sealing, you'll still likely miss some.
a) There are plenty of seals for things like tailgates which are worth investing in, because those are massive gaps. In some trucks, sealing a hole with silicone is an option, but there's a lot of holes and many cannot be gotten to with silicone. A common solution is to use foam, rags, or similar to stuff these spaces, but I'm wary of that - I've not found many examples of this going wrong, but it strikes me that anything that can hold water and is in tight spaces will both increase risks of corrosion and increase risks of mold. I want neither on my rig.

2) The seals alone are not enough, though they will dramatically reduce dust. The reason is that when the vehicle moves through space, it pushes a ton of air out of it's way. This moving air creates a vacuum in the tub. No matter how good a vehicle is sealed, this slight pressure imbalance means that dust and debris gets sucked into the tray area.

Even a slight positive pressure variance will prevent this from happening as if air is constantly trying to force it's way out of the tub, there's no way for air (and the dust it's carrying) to get sucked into the tub. There are many ways to achieve this variance -- I've heard of folks using onboard air, but that seems complex and expensive and requires an extremely well sealed tub to begin with, or else a very high-cycle compressor (most 4x4-style compressors are not meant for constant use, only intermittent use with plenty of time for cooling). The alternative is to use vents that passively scoop air, or, as another poster mentioned, powered fans. One recommendation is actually to open the rear centre glass of your truck and the rear centre glass of your cap (if you have it). Apparently, dust ingress through the wide-open window will be minimal on most trucks due to aerodynamics, but this will help create that positive pressure which will keep the dust from getting pulled in through other areas (tailgate, bed rails, etc.). I've never tried it myself though.

Here's a pretty good overview:




And, related to this particular thread, I have a 2017 GMC Canyon I'm building out. Build thread here: https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/build-thread-pachyderm-or-pac-a-2017-gmc-canyon.205519/

(Note - I started my thread before the mid-size section existed I think, but I'll try to get it moved over).

PaEjlvJ.jpeg
 
Working on this right now for my build and will post up when it's done, but in the meantime I'll share my research.

The positive pressure system is basically the only way to fully and effectively "dustproof" a pickup truck box from what I can see. There are countless examples -- especially in Australia -- of the folks trying a million things under the sun from rubber bulb seals to silkaflex to raptor lining and more, but the only way to truly properly "dust proof" a typical pickup box is using positive pressure in addition to any sealing efforts. There are two reasons for this:

1) There are tons of tiny holes, gaps, etc. from manufacturing that even with hours of sealing, you'll still likely miss some.
a) There are plenty of seals for things like tailgates which are worth investing in, because those are massive gaps. In some trucks, sealing a hole with silicone is an option, but there's a lot of holes and many cannot be gotten to with silicone. A common solution is to use foam, rags, or similar to stuff these spaces, but I'm wary of that - I've not found many examples of this going wrong, but it strikes me that anything that can hold water and is in tight spaces will both increase risks of corrosion and increase risks of mold. I want neither on my rig.

2) The seals alone are not enough, though they will dramatically reduce dust. The reason is that when the vehicle moves through space, it pushes a ton of air out of it's way. This moving air creates a vacuum in the tub. No matter how good a vehicle is sealed, this slight pressure imbalance means that dust and debris gets sucked into the tray area.

Even a slight positive pressure variance will prevent this from happening as if air is constantly trying to force it's way out of the tub, there's no way for air (and the dust it's carrying) to get sucked into the tub. There are many ways to achieve this variance -- I've heard of folks using onboard air, but that seems complex and expensive and requires an extremely well sealed tub to begin with, or else a very high-cycle compressor (most 4x4-style compressors are not meant for constant use, only intermittent use with plenty of time for cooling). The alternative is to use vents that passively scoop air, or, as another poster mentioned, powered fans. One recommendation is actually to open the rear centre glass of your truck and the rear centre glass of your cap (if you have it). Apparently, dust ingress through the wide-open window will be minimal on most trucks due to aerodynamics, but this will help create that positive pressure which will keep the dust from getting pulled in through other areas (tailgate, bed rails, etc.). I've never tried it myself though.

Here's a pretty good overview:




And, related to this particular thread, I have a 2017 GMC Canyon I'm building out. Build thread here: https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/build-thread-pachyderm-or-pac-a-2017-gmc-canyon.205519/

(Note - I started my thread before the mid-size section existed I think, but I'll try to get it moved over).

PaEjlvJ.jpeg
Thanks for all the great info!!! Def. going to give some of it a try. You have a nice build going too!
 

BobsCreek

Adventurer
Nice trucks!

Has anyone mounted an RTT using say, the Rhino Rack ditch mount roof racks on the cab of a Colorado?

Someone must have, but I can't locate em ?

I'm toying with moving the tent off of my bedrack.
 

emulous74

Well-known member
I'd check the weight limits, I know with my Rhino Rack backbone system, it's less than 200lbs, while that can hold most RTT's it means you can't put a person in that tent. When I had Thule cross bars on, the weight limit was 165lbs
 

ipconfig

New member
I'd check the weight limits, I know with my Rhino Rack backbone system, it's less than 200lbs, while that can hold most RTT's it means you can't put a person in that tent. When I had Thule cross bars on, the weight limit was 165lbs

That isnt the static load, that is the dynamic load when moving. Thule and others are fine for a tent on there when camping.
 

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