Checking out an ‘04 Grand Cherokee tonight - what to look for?

[Andy G]

Here’s the CL ad for it...

2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7 V8
https://grandrapids.craigslist.org/cto/d/2004-jeep-grand-cherokee/6735956187.html

Wondering if there’s anything specific on this I should be looking at other than the usual used truck sorta stuff?

Thanks!


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[Hosalabad]

Does that year have the aluminum pumpkin in the front, I recall them spinning tubes.

 

[drinkdrankdrunk]

That really depends what your plans are for the vehicle. I have a 02 WJ and I love it, 217,000 miles and it still runs like a top. I'm partial to the 4.0 motor, but the V8's are fine motors as long as they've been treated right. Check to see if the coolant is green or red, it should be red. If it's green that means the previous owner doesn't know how to properly take care of their vehicle.

If you plan to lift it at all, then you need to take a look at the front driveshaft. If it has U joints at both the diff end and the t-case end, then you've got a good one, if it has a rzeppa joint at either the tcase side or both sides, you're going to have to replace the CV yokes and get a new driveshaft with U joints at both sides. The rzeppa joints are a great design for stock ride height, but with any lift they can't handle the new driveline angles.

I can't tell for sure, but something looks off with the brush guard. Not sure if it was installed wrong or if it's been hit, but something looks off on it. Also in regards to the brush guard, you're going to want to take it off anyways as the brush guard mounts to where the factory tow hooks are installed. As the vehicle is right now it has no front recovery points. You can get a set of factory tow hooks from a junkyard for $10 and 10 mins of your time, they're a super easy install.

Also take a look at the shifter indicator bezel inside the jeep to see if you have a 242 or 247 transfercase. The 242 is prefered as it has 2wd, 4hi locked, 4hi unlocked, and 4lo locked. The 247 only has 4hi unlocked and 4lo, so you'll be in 4wd all the time.

If it has a check engine light on, there's a trick where you can cycle the key from ACC to RUN 3x and it'll flash OBD2 codes on the digital odometer. Google those codes and see if any are particularly worrysome, this is also a good way to knock the price down a bit. Same thing if the trunk, rear glass, or hood struts are worn out, ask for $50 off the price per pair that won't stay up.

If it has the dual zone climate control make sure the heat and AC work on both sides. The blend doors fail on the DZ climate control easily and you have to pull the whole dash to fix it, it's a **********.

The rocker panels like to rust on these jeeps, especially with a michigan vehicle, I'd be on the look out for rust, but I'm sure y'all are used to rust up there.

Jeep sold a ton of these during their time, so spare parts are easy to find as long as you have a junkyard nearby.

The one thing I'll leave you with is do a little research on the jeep 4.0 i6 vs the 4.7 V8, they both have their pros and cons. If you do decide to go with the V8, I would definitely hold out for an overland model with the 4.7 High Output motor. Yes, it's a jeep trim package called "overland", you'll see an emblem on the side where it says "limited" on the craigslist one. It's essentially the highest trim package there is and came with factory rock sliders, factory tow hooks, a high output motor, and every creature comfort they offered.

This website will tell you just about everything there is to know about WJ's
http://wjjeeps.com/jmenu.htm

And here's a pretty conclusive buyers guide over on jeep forum
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/ultimate-wj-grand-cherokee-buyer-s-guide-1271979/


I'm in a hurry and haven't proof read this so sorry if anything is mistyped. Let me know if you have any questions, the WJ is an awesome vehicle, but they have their quirks.

 

[Andy G]

Awesome, thank you for all that info! This one is surprisingly rust free, especially the rockers. He’s done some work to the front fenders but that’s the only trouble spots.

I’ll do a 2” lift or a leveling kit at most, and have read about the CV vs ujoints. Actually he just texted me back - it’s u joints on both ends. Cool.

Yeah the brush guard is coming off. Actually it’s almost falling off...so not an issue. Already have a couple tow hooks from an older project that I’ll use.

No check engine lights. He showed me the paperwork for the engine and trans rebuild - both about 35,000 miles ago.

It’s got the 247 transfer case, which for my purposes is fine - for now. I’ll keep an eye on the 2 junk yards near me for a 242 case.

It does have the dual zone, and everything works from both sides.

Thanks for the links - got ‘em bookmarked!

Made an offer and he accepted - I’m picking it up tomorrow evening! STOKED to finally have a 4wd vehicle once again!

Thanks for the reply!

That really depends what your plans are for the vehicle. I have a 02 WJ and I love it, 217,000 miles and it still runs like a top. I'm partial to the 4.0 motor, but the V8's are fine motors as long as they've been treated right. Check to see if the coolant is green or red, it should be red. If it's green that means the previous owner doesn't know how to properly take care of their vehicle.

If you plan to lift it at all, then you need to take a look at the front driveshaft. If it has U joints at both the diff end and the t-case end, then you've got a good one, if it has a rzeppa joint at either the tcase side or both sides, you're going to have to replace the CV yokes and get a new driveshaft with U joints at both sides. The rzeppa joints are a great design for stock ride height, but with any lift they can't handle the new driveline angles.

I can't tell for sure, but something looks off with the brush guard. Not sure if it was installed wrong or if it's been hit, but something looks off on it. Also in regards to the brush guard, you're going to want to take it off anyways as the brush guard mounts to where the factory tow hooks are installed. As the vehicle is right now it has no front recovery points. You can get a set of factory tow hooks from a junkyard for $10 and 10 mins of your time, they're a super easy install.

Also take a look at the shifter indicator bezel inside the jeep to see if you have a 242 or 247 transfercase. The 242 is prefered as it has 2wd, 4hi locked, 4hi unlocked, and 4lo locked. The 247 only has 4hi unlocked and 4lo, so you'll be in 4wd all the time.

If it has a check engine light on, there's a trick where you can cycle the key from ACC to RUN 3x and it'll flash OBD2 codes on the digital odometer. Google those codes and see if any are particularly worrysome, this is also a good way to knock the price down a bit. Same thing if the trunk, rear glass, or hood struts are worn out, ask for $50 off the price per pair that won't stay up.

If it has the dual zone climate control make sure the heat and AC work on both sides. The blend doors fail on the DZ climate control easily and you have to pull the whole dash to fix it, it's a **********.

The rocker panels like to rust on these jeeps, especially with a michigan vehicle, I'd be on the look out for rust, but I'm sure y'all are used to rust up there.

Jeep sold a ton of these during their time, so spare parts are easy to find as long as you have a junkyard nearby.

The one thing I'll leave you with is do a little research on the jeep 4.0 i6 vs the 4.7 V8, they both have their pros and cons. If you do decide to go with the V8, I would definitely hold out for an overland model with the 4.7 High Output motor. Yes, it's a jeep trim package called "overland", you'll see an emblem on the side where it says "limited" on the craigslist one. It's essentially the highest trim package there is and came with factory rock sliders, factory tow hooks, a high output motor, and every creature comfort they offered.

This website will tell you just about everything there is to know about WJ's
http://wjjeeps.com/jmenu.htm

And here's a pretty conclusive buyers guide over on jeep forum
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/ultimate-wj-grand-cherokee-buyer-s-guide-1271979/


I'm in a hurry and haven't proof read this so sorry if anything is mistyped. Let me know if you have any questions, the WJ is an awesome vehicle, but they have their quirks.

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[drinkdrankdrunk]

Glad I could help. When you do the lift, one word of adivce is to get all new spring isolators. It's something I wish I had done when I installed mine, and now if I want to do it I essentially have to pull everything back out to do them. If you're doing a 2in budget boost, you'll only gain 2in above what the jeep sits at now, whereas if you do spring isolators you'll probably get an extra 0.5" out of it because the isolators get pretty worn over time. And even moreso if you put in new 2in lift springs and isolators, you'll probably gain closer to 3" from what you're at now, and a true 2" from what it came from the factory at.

Also in regards to the tow hooks, I'd advise against installing non-factory tow hooks. These things don't have frames so there's no super strong place to just run two bolts on the front crossmember and mount a tow hook. The factory ones have a well thought out backing plate and make it about as sturdy as you can get. Like I said they're pretty easy to find at a JY and take 2 mins to pull and 10 to install. You can also find them used online for $50-100, and theres a company that makes D ring shackle mounts for them that look pretty nice.

And that's great it has the double cardan drive shaft, that'll save you some headache down the road. Even with the DC driveshaft, once you lift it you may get some slight driveline vibrations. If it's not bothersome don't worry about it, but if it starts getting a little rough it's not hard or expensive to install all new U joints. The 247 is a fine transfercase for just about everything, I'm usually in 4hi unlocked on the trails anyways, I wouldn't bother with looking for a 242 unless you find the 247 truly inadequate. If you do go that route I believe you can only use a 242 from another V8 WJ. If you pull one from a i6 WJ you'll have to swap the rear driveshaft with one from a i6 as well, as they're different lengths and different spline counts. The selec-trac V8 WJ's came with a 242HD as opposed to the standard 242J.

It looks like you've done your research, I'm glad you're happy with your purchase. Here are some shots of how mines set up.

 

[Andy G]

Very nice! Thanks for all your assistance - it’s greatly appreciated. I’ll take your advice about the spring isolators when I do my lift. Most likely going with Rusty’s Off-road 2.5” coil spring / shock kit. Have had good luck with Rusty’s stuff in the past.

Got 2 new OEM tow hooks on order.

Yeah I’m not gonna worry about the 242 for now. There’s PLENTY of V8 GC’s in the junkyard with the 242 that I can grab down the road if need be.

Nice looking Jeep - that’s the same sorta build I’m going for.

Thanks again!

Glad I could help. When you do the lift, one word of adivce is to get all new spring isolators. It's something I wish I had done when I installed mine, and now if I want to do it I essentially have to pull everything back out to do them. If you're doing a 2in budget boost, you'll only gain 2in above what the jeep sits at now, whereas if you do spring isolators you'll probably get an extra 0.5" out of it because the isolators get pretty worn over time. And even moreso if you put in new 2in lift springs and isolators, you'll probably gain closer to 3" from what you're at now, and a true 2" from what it came from the factory at.

Also in regards to the tow hooks, I'd advise against installing non-factory tow hooks. These things don't have frames so there's no super strong place to just run two bolts on the front crossmember and mount a tow hook. The factory ones have a well thought out backing plate and make it about as sturdy as you can get. Like I said they're pretty easy to find at a JY and take 2 mins to pull and 10 to install. You can also find them used online for $50-100, and theres a company that makes D ring shackle mounts for them that look pretty nice.

And that's great it has the double cardan drive shaft, that'll save you some headache down the road. Even with the DC driveshaft, once you lift it you may get some slight driveline vibrations. If it's not bothersome don't worry about it, but if it starts getting a little rough it's not hard or expensive to install all new U joints. The 247 is a fine transfercase for just about everything, I'm usually in 4hi unlocked on the trails anyways, I wouldn't bother with looking for a 242 unless you find the 247 truly inadequate. If you do go that route I believe you can only use a 242 from another V8 WJ. If you pull one from a i6 WJ you'll have to swap the rear driveshaft with one from a i6 as well, as they're different lengths and different spline counts. The selec-trac V8 WJ's came with a 242HD as opposed to the standard 242J.

It looks like you've done your research, I'm glad you're happy with your purchase. Here are some shots of how mines set up.

View attachment 486635View attachment 486636View attachment 486637

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[KENPERK]

I have a '04 4.7 and 247 and have no problems with that Tcase. Its handled everything I want it to. Bought new , have 190xxx on it now, put a IRO 3" lift kit on it a few years ago...looks good and ride well.

 

[Regcabguy]

Good information guys!
I'd love a WJ someday.

 

[Frank Force]

Congrats on your purchase and welcome to the WJ world.
Check all of your suspension and steering components for wear (Ball joints, tie rod ends, track bar bushings, control arm bushings, etc). They will bring out the death wobble as soon as you lift it, if they aren't in good shape. Since you got an '04, you got the best drive shaft options that were offered on the WJ, but inspect the U-Joints. Pony up for good u-joints if you plan on lifting it. The 247 transfer case will serve you well if you maintain it. Make sure you use the correct fluid when you service the transfer case. It's sort of "fashionable" to hate on QuadraDrive, but it actually works pretty well. Stay on top of the maintenance on your engine as well. The 4.7L is a good engine, but it doesn't have the track record for durability that the old I6 does. My 04 Limited has the 4.7L H.O. in it, and I've beat the snot out of it, but also been meticulous on maintenance, and thus far I've had no problems with it. If it's QuadraDrive and not QuadraTrac (Both have the 247 transfer case), you're going to want to service both differentials.

 

[FelixHunziker]

DrinkDrankDrunk, what lift and tires do you have on your WJ? I’m about to install the OME HD lift on mine, still mulling tire size.


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[drinkdrankdrunk]

DrinkDrankDrunk, what lift and tires do you have on your WJ? I’m about to install the OME HD lift on mine, still mulling tire size.


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It's the IRO 3in lift with cooper AT3 265/75/16. No rub on the fenders or bumpers, but a tiny bit of rub on the lower control arms at full lock, not nearly enough for me to worry about it. It seems most people run into rubbing issues when they put wheel spacers on, and that's when they start rubbing on the front bumper.