Cargo/pet barrier - anybody use one?
- Thread starter Martinjmpr
- Start date
LandCruiserPhil
Expedition Leader
I bought some rope from Harbor Freight and tied my own custom gill net. Under $5 and less than an hour of time. The plus for doing your own is you can make the opening any size for me I want to keep Sam my dog out of first class seating but be able to reach back and have access to other stuff.
Attachments
OuterLimits
I control the horizontal and the vertical
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rayra
Expedition Leader
boll_rig was kind enough to send me some pics of his disassembled Sub cargo area, enough to see the 'C' pillar and the substructure above the cargo side window are box structures formed from formed sheetmetal. Hollow and perforated with enough openings that I think it would be a straightforward operation to add a couple eyebolts high up the C pillar near the ceiling line. Sandwich the sheetmetal in large fender washers to spread the load as much as possible, keep the eyebolt nut from just pulling thru, and I think it would be plenty strong enough for the purpose.
And use short enough eyebolts and they won't even protrude too far into the vehiclel interior, just enough to attach to them. You'd have to cut a small slot / hole in the 'C' pillar trim to fit over the head of the eyebolt. And if the eybolt is high enough, it could be just a slot / U-notch at the top edge of the trim plastic. Even easier to get the placement correct.
btw, I was shopping attachment hardware at Home Depot yesterday and the spring-lock carabines have a disappointingly low load rating, ~~200-lbs. But the 'Quick Link(s)' - chain link in shape with the threaded nut as a loop closure - have a load rating of nearly 1000-lbs. So use those as quick attachments.
So sew a perimeter strap that loops on itself at the four corners, for max strength. Then fill it in with a crosshatch pattern, sewn at the intersections. Or weave a net as others have shown here.
And use short enough eyebolts and they won't even protrude too far into the vehiclel interior, just enough to attach to them. You'd have to cut a small slot / hole in the 'C' pillar trim to fit over the head of the eyebolt. And if the eybolt is high enough, it could be just a slot / U-notch at the top edge of the trim plastic. Even easier to get the placement correct.
btw, I was shopping attachment hardware at Home Depot yesterday and the spring-lock carabines have a disappointingly low load rating, ~~200-lbs. But the 'Quick Link(s)' - chain link in shape with the threaded nut as a loop closure - have a load rating of nearly 1000-lbs. So use those as quick attachments.
So sew a perimeter strap that loops on itself at the four corners, for max strength. Then fill it in with a crosshatch pattern, sewn at the intersections. Or weave a net as others have shown here.
mudhoneyandthenips
Observer
We use a Rangler net in the Tahoe. Works great. Rangler was great to deal with when ordering. Also use L Track to keep cargo tied down. Holds a 90 lb CBR.
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I have one of these and ihttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076BE458/
Buddha.
Finally in expo white.
In my $2500 blazer i didn't want to spend much for a pet barrier. Also note my dogs are about 15-20lbs and about 18" tall. I cut two 2"x2" to fit width wise on the window ledge in the back cargo area. I then screwed a piece of half inch plywood underneath of the 2x2's to give enough head room for the dogs. This platform fits very secure since its assembled in place. I then used a couple of 2x2's as verticle supports to hold wire fencing on the front. The dogs loved it on my 1500mile road trip last spring and it leaves plenty of room to put boxes underneath.
rayra
Expedition Leader
well scratch my eyebolt idea, unless you weld them up. As is, they have a very low working load rating. These smallish ones, 1/4"-20 threaded rod are only rated at 100-lbs. The next size up was less than 200 IIRC. These quick links are rated at 800-lbs.
eta
Direct solution is a ring bolt, or a lifting eye bolt, or a scaffolding bolt. All have solid rings and much higher load ratings.
eta
I figure a squarish trapezoid shape, roughly 4' across and 3' deep, with straps spaced every 6" and straps at the corners for buckles, comes to about 65' of 1" strapping. That's less than $30 from Ripstopbytheroll. The pictured hardware above was about $6. Call it $50-60 in materials for the whole thing. Can tape up the layout on my work table, the perimeter strap. Then cut and layout the cross hatching pieces. basket-weave / interleave the pieces. Then a dab of hot glue to tack things together, then a thorough sewing job on each intersection. Would be a little tedious but a straightforward project (see my awning project below).
or a person could readily weave one as demonstrated above, using true 550 paracord, available in a variety of colors. Beware the commercially available lookalike product which has nowhere near the load rating of 550 (which is called that because it's breaking point is 550-lbs).
A 4'x3' net with a 6" spacing is roughly 60'. A 3" spacing a little under 120'. A 2" spacing, call it ~160'. And would still weigh under ONE pound.
1000' spool is $55 - http://www.paracordstore.com/Bulk-550-Paracord-Spools_c_13.html
I'm looking around for 1/2" flat webbing for the 'field' of the net, but I can't find any break-rating claims. So it looks like the choices are rugged 1" black mega-net, or subdued interior color matching paracord and having something about as effective but much less noticeable.
eta
Direct solution is a ring bolt, or a lifting eye bolt, or a scaffolding bolt. All have solid rings and much higher load ratings.
eta
I figure a squarish trapezoid shape, roughly 4' across and 3' deep, with straps spaced every 6" and straps at the corners for buckles, comes to about 65' of 1" strapping. That's less than $30 from Ripstopbytheroll. The pictured hardware above was about $6. Call it $50-60 in materials for the whole thing. Can tape up the layout on my work table, the perimeter strap. Then cut and layout the cross hatching pieces. basket-weave / interleave the pieces. Then a dab of hot glue to tack things together, then a thorough sewing job on each intersection. Would be a little tedious but a straightforward project (see my awning project below).
or a person could readily weave one as demonstrated above, using true 550 paracord, available in a variety of colors. Beware the commercially available lookalike product which has nowhere near the load rating of 550 (which is called that because it's breaking point is 550-lbs).
A 4'x3' net with a 6" spacing is roughly 60'. A 3" spacing a little under 120'. A 2" spacing, call it ~160'. And would still weigh under ONE pound.
1000' spool is $55 - http://www.paracordstore.com/Bulk-550-Paracord-Spools_c_13.html
I'm looking around for 1/2" flat webbing for the 'field' of the net, but I can't find any break-rating claims. So it looks like the choices are rugged 1" black mega-net, or subdued interior color matching paracord and having something about as effective but much less noticeable.
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rayra
Expedition Leader
I'd call their prices reasonable, if you don't want to or can't build one yourself. ~~$140 premium for a large GM SUV barrier over what it would cost me for parts. And about ~6hrs cutting and sewing. Easier to just buy one.
mudhoneyandthenips
Observer
Raingler's fit perfect and took about 30 min to install.
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