Capri Retreat Initial Review Part 1

Umnak

Adventurer
The following is cross-posted with our In Progress Adventures Thread: https://www.expeditionportal.com/fo...-america-plus-a-few-more.150556/#post-1959205


We’ve had the Capri Retreat for almost 2 months, and have spent about half that time with it on the road in a variety of weather and places. With that, it seems that an initial review is in order.

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Background: Our previous road trip vehicle was a 2006 Sportsmobile Sprinter. We sold the Sprinter after 3 years on the road as we were moving into a permanent residence and wanted something that could take its place and serve as a second vehicle. The idea of a truck camper came from the need for a rig that we could use anywhere we wanted to go, and especially those places we felt couldn’t be handled by the Sprinter. The 4x4 Sprinters that had come to market during our road trip were very expensive and as long as our TN1. 4x4 domestic vans were hard to find and with the whole #vanlife thing having emerged during the past few years, also too expensive.

I drooled over a few Defender 110s with a pop-up but the reality of living on the wrong side of the world from the parts store and mechanics held sway over that decision.
We moved away from soft-sided pop-ups because of the cold and wet conditions in which we will be using the camper for a part of the year. As luck would have it, the truck camper we had hoped to purchase — Pastime — decided to close it doors the week we wanted to place an order. I recalled reading some good things about Capri and decided to give them a call and see what we could build. I’m so happy it turned out that way.

Capri makes unique truck campers and they make them well.

Overview: We like the truck camper, a lot. But it’s not just the camper, it’s also the truck. The 4x4 GMC Sierra with the 6 speed Alison Transmission and haul/tow package is a work horse. And a comfortable one at that. The camper sits nicely on the truck. At 7’ it’s longer than the bed, but doesn’t stick out over the bumper. The truck’s length is 18.5’ which makes two tracks and winding roads simple to maneuver. The camper’s width is perfect for hauling, as it doesn’t require the truck to add extended side-view mirrors. The height of the camper and the truck is just about what we were used to in the Sprinter at 9’6”.

It’s comfortable inside without a table, though I’m not sure it would be with one always in place. There is enough room for me to prepare a meal and have two people sitting on the comfortable cushions provided by Capri. The always made bed is a huge advantage over our Sprinter, whose bed had to be stolen each night from the settee.

Storage is more than adequate for two minimalists like us. We had more than enough space for food and gear on our recent 2 week trip.

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Build: The company provides a great deal of options and is very easy to work with. Communication during the build was exceptional, with daily progress emails and photographs. Our Retreat has no shower, water heater, stove top or table. Capri was willing to install our ARB 50 quart fridge and, as it being the first one they had ever done, figured out a good place to put it and keep it viable for easy removal. Options we chose included a 10 gal water tank, house battery, fantastic fan, a few extra windows, and catalytic heater. We also bought a Dometic portable toilet from Capri who has a great storage spot for it when not in use.

Capri offers a number of interior finishes. I chose pecan as it seemed the lightest in color and it paired well with the wooden cabinet doors and walls. The exterior of any Capri can be customized by the owner. Our’s is silver with black stripes and a red accent line. Looks nice on the black truck.

Fit and finish are good overall. Everything is neat and trim. There were a few exposed screw points in storage areas and one of the cabinet doors would scrape the ceiling when the camper roof heated up from the sun ( which seems to expand the roof and ceiling). The overall feel is comfortable and authentic. There are no plastic fittings or molding. The cushions and mattress are of good quality. The Retreat feels solid and weathers rough roads well. It’s also pretty cool looking and has the same puppy appeal as our Sportsmobile did in the first couple of years on the road.

I like the turnbuckle system that is inside the truck bed and camper. We have had no problems with the camper moving on the bed and the lack of external ties and turnbuckles gives a clean look to the rig.

If my math is correct the camper weighs a bit over 1300 lbs, which puts us a little over gvwr, but with LT tires, sway bar and Timbrens it doesn’t impact performance or driving. We are getting 18mpg without the camper and 14mpg with it installed.



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Counters and cabinets:
The sink is deep and holds everything you need for a sink while traveling. There is sufficient room for our Snow Peak Baja stove — with the propane canister sitting securely in the sink — as well as counter top for food prep. That portion of the counter is hinged to allow access to the ARB fridge, something Capri worked out and executed well. We use the cabinets above the stove for light food storage. A basket below the sink holds drink and food cans.

The large cabinet that would have housed the Capri fridge was built with three shelves, two of which are used for utensils, a pot, pan and stove. Toiletries and other small items take the top shelf. These could hold more if needed, but we hope that doesn’t happen.

A long cabinet with three doors on the starboard side of the camper holds our clothing and some electronic gear. Again, we could put a lot more in these.

Capri has two very simple convenience storage areas as part of their standard build. A small shelf under the large cabinet, which would normally house the Capri fridge, holds the stuff in your pockets during the night. A phone shelf with accompanying 12v and usb ports is a great addition, and increases the sound and especial the base from our iPhones. I do wish the phone rack was placed a bit higher and toward the rear to reduce the chances of banging one’s head if sleeping on that side of the camper. Maybe I’ll move it.

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Umnak

Adventurer
Capri Retreat Review Part 2

Eating and Hanging Out
The Baja stove does a good job, and since I’ve been making one pot/pan meals for the past few years of travel, is all we will ever need. I’ve even figured out a way to make cous cous in the same pan as a stir fry.




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Our REI small folding table sits easily on the starboard bench allowing us to sit across from each other while eating. As noted above, a large table in this small of a camper would be a hindrance. I would consider a folding table and store it in the space we currently hold our Snow Peak fireplace and grill, but I couldn’t have both, and so we will stick with small bench top table.

The two sitting benches are comfortable for leaning against the starboard wall. The camper is very nice with the heat on and a cup of tea nearby.

Lights:
The led lights are too bright. There are too many of them in the small camper. I’m going to install a switch on the house lights mounted under the starboard cabinet so we don’t have to have so much light! Typically, we use the recessed lights in the sleeping are on in the evening and have seldom turned on the house lights. The kitchen lights are also bright, and provide more than enough for prep and cooking. There is one overhead 110v light that is enough to cover the entire cabin when on shore power.

Heat/Vent
The fantastic fan is a powerhouse. It pulls air from an open window and makes a nice airflow. The Wave 6 heater does the job well, though we seem to have a propane leak somewhere and so I have to go outside to turn it off at the source after warming the camper. I bought some foil-clad insulation to protect the fridge from the heat, and it is surprisingly effective.



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Our Sprinter didn’t have any propane service and if I had a diesel truck this one wouldn’t either. An Espar heater would be more expensive but would avoid the potential hazards of propane.

The windows are single pane and easily form condensation. A couple of them are difficult to close but they do close and keep the rain out. I would not order the one that faces the truck’s rear window. It provides no view and just makes the cabin colder. We’ve put the window cover over it and it will probably never come off.

The LPG compartment was a tight fit for the 20lb tank that came with the Retreat. I bought a 10lb tank and am able to store a hose, cord, fire pot and tarp in the space now.



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ARB:
The compression style fridge seldom turns on, and when it does only takes 10-15 minutes to return to the set temperature, which we keep at 36f. The chest design keeps items colder than what we had in the Sprinter.

If Capri is going to offer installing more ARBs or Engle fridges I would have them consider moving the location of the fridge to the floor, either in the current water tank location or under the bench that houses the portable toilet. That does, of course beg the question as to where those essential items would be placed. I think switching the water tank with the battery, and then moving the battery under the sink could work. A hinged top for the ARB would serve as the step to the bed. This would allow for a much needed drawer under the counter top.

Battery/charger/converter: The toilet came with 6 pages of unnecessary instructions ( I had an employee who sent out a "how to take a dump" email once, he didn't last very long after that), there was no documentation provided for the battery charging systems and converter. I’ve just recently learned that what we were doing to charge the battery — turning the system to the off position while driving — isn’t correct, and now drive with the system in the “on” position. There is no brand name on the charger/converter so I can’t research this issue myself. I’m still not sure what happens when I have the system off and the camper on shore power. I need an electrical engineer, or a couple of pieces of paper.



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Sleeping The mattress is great and Eve likes sleeping against the forward bulkhead. I might relocate the phone rack to allow for a more open view from bed by moving our head away from the side of the large cabinet.



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Tarp vs Awning:
Capri doesn’t include an awning in their option package, and that, in and of itself, is a reason to buy one from them. We slept, ate and hung around under tarps in a rain forest for the past 20 years (and another 10 in the high arctic before that). Capri does offer options for eye bolts attached to the camper. We went the full round and had four installed, two on the back and two on the starboard side of the truck. I’ve been using my 6 ounce 5’x8’ solo tarp to cover the back door and provide a space out of the rain or sun.
Tarp.jpg

We will be doing some winter camping over the coming months and I’ll do a 6 month review in the spring.
 
Regarding your charger/converter...if you're talking about the unit to the right of the batter on/off switch, it's an IOTA DLS-30 and here's a link to their website...

https://www.iotaengineering.com/dls30.htm No really detailed owner's manual, but there are a couple downloadable info sheets. Perhaps give them a call.

Nice, lightweight rig there, looks like a good solution for minimal weight and size.

Cheers,
 

Umnak

Adventurer
Regarding your charger/converter...if you're talking about the unit to the right of the batter on/off switch, it's an IOTA DLS-30 and here's a link to their website...

https://www.iotaengineering.com/dls30.htm No really detailed owner's manual, but there are a couple downloadable info sheets. Perhaps give them a call.

Nice, lightweight rig there, looks like a good solution for minimal weight and size.

Cheers,
thank you for that information. I shouldn't have said the charger/converter, as it is the switch that I'm having trouble with.
 
What sort of trouble? How it's meant to function in the system?

From the looks of it, it's only purpose is to disconnect the + lead of the battery from everything else in the system, including the charger/converter. All the rest of the system remains connected so that you can operate 12V devices as normal when you're connected to "shore power", 120V. In that case the charger converter supplies the power to the 12V devices, but it does not charge the battery, since it's now disconnected.

Did the manufacturer of the camper not provide a detailed wiring diagram? If not, I'd certainly request/demand one.

Cheers,
Tom
 

Umnak

Adventurer
What sort of trouble? How it's meant to function in the system?

From the looks of it, it's only purpose is to disconnect the + lead of the battery from everything else in the system, including the charger/converter. All the rest of the system remains connected so that you can operate 12V devices as normal when you're connected to "shore power", 120V. In that case the charger converter supplies the power to the 12V devices, but it does not charge the battery, since it's now disconnected.

Did the manufacturer of the camper not provide a detailed wiring diagram? If not, I'd certainly request/demand one.

Cheers,
Tom
Thanks for the explanation. And no, they didn't, but your response answers my question.
 
You're welcome...and one other comment/question. Most campers have a connection to the host truck for 12VDC to charge your camper battery as well as wiring for clearance lights, turn signals and running/brake lights. I don't see any such lights on your rig. Is there a connection to the truck 12V system to charge your camper battery when underway? If so, you'll probably need to have your battery switch in the "On" position for that to occur, since the only place the + lead from the battery seems to go is to the switch. Though there are 3 smaller red wires visible that go to the battery switch, they are probably all connected to the same switch terminal...one of those would likely be a tie-in to your camper/truck power connector, if you have one. I suspect the main purpose of the battery disconnect is just to be able to isolate the battery in an emergency or disconnect if you're going to be making some wiring mods on the system. Personally, I'd add a fuse or circuit breaker inline with the main battery feed...30 or 40 amp...if there is not one already.

Cheers!
 

Umnak

Adventurer
You're welcome...and one other comment/question. Most campers have a connection to the host truck for 12VDC to charge your camper battery as well as wiring for clearance lights, turn signals and running/brake lights. I don't see any such lights on your rig. Is there a connection to the truck 12V system to charge your camper battery when underway? If so, you'll probably need to have your battery switch in the "On" position for that to occur, since the only place the + lead from the battery seems to go is to the switch. Though there are 3 smaller red wires visible that go to the battery switch, they are probably all connected to the same switch terminal...one of those would likely be a tie-in to your camper/truck power connector, if you have one. I suspect the main purpose of the battery disconnect is just to be able to isolate the battery in an emergency or disconnect if you're going to be making some wiring mods on the system. Personally, I'd add a fuse or circuit breaker inline with the main battery feed...30 or 40 amp...if there is not one already.

Cheers!
Yes, there is a connection that plugs into the truck's system and I now understand that it is how the house battery is charged, so I'm keeping it in the "on" position. Capri answered my questions regarding that issue. What I was confused about -- and still not entirely sure about -- is if the switch should be in the "on" position when on shore power to continue to charge the battery. Your comment leads me to believe it should be.

Thanks,
 

azken

Observer
I had a travel trailer with a similar setup..left switch on ON unless I stored the trailer then I turned it OFF to prevent any battery drain..hence no power to the trailer..nothing to draw it down.
 
As azken states above, yes, the switch should always be in the ON position for day to day use. As for switching OFF for storage, also yes, unless you can leave the camper connected to shore power where it's being stored. A lead-acid battery will "self-discharge" at a slow rate and leaving one sitting for a few months without occasional "topping off" is detrimental to the useable lifetime of the battery. If feasible, it would be best to leave your rig connected to shore power when you're not using it...your charger/convertor is designed to "float" your battery at a full-charge, indefinitely. In this case you'd leave the battery switch in the ON position.
 

Umnak

Adventurer
As azken states above, yes, the switch should always be in the ON position for day to day use. As for switching OFF for storage, also yes, unless you can leave the camper connected to shore power where it's being stored. A lead-acid battery will "self-discharge" at a slow rate and leaving one sitting for a few months without occasional "topping off" is detrimental to the useable lifetime of the battery. If feasible, it would be best to leave your rig connected to shore power when you're not using it...your charger/convertor is designed to "float" your battery at a full-charge, indefinitely. In this case you'd leave the battery switch in the ON position.
I have a place to keep the camper but don't think I can keep it plugged in all the time. I do think I could plug it in to shore power occasionally. With my current system do you think it would be okay if I kept the battery in the camper -- in the off position -- and charged it for a day every few weeks? I would, of course, turn it "on" when doing so.
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
It'll be fine if the off switch is good. If not, grab a wrench and disconnect it.

Batteries aren't rubber cased anymore. I have 4 g31's sitting on a concrete floor. They should be toast by now, but they're fine. Just keep them clean and full. Dirt on top of the battery will drain it.
 

Umnak

Adventurer
A light weight and inexpensive screen door
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Keeping to our minimalist creed, I put together a screen for the door to the Cabin made of an inner liner for a curtain purchased at Target. It works well, and with a little work could look even better than it does stock.

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I folded the curtain in half, then pinned the open side with small brass safety pins we had purchased for another project. The double layer provides more protection from bugs as it added weight holds it close to the door. Four map pins hold the curtain close to the opening of the door. I had thought about a curtain rod to assist with passage, but that would have left the top open and an entry for bugs. A few bag clips on the sides and a shoe or two on the bottom make it very effective and allow much needed ventilation as temperatures around here cross the 70f line. Yes, we are still Alaskans.

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