Cant Get My Leaf Spring Lined Up With Shackle, Help?

brp

Observer
I have been working to install an Icon 3" shackle and hanger kit on my 2002 F450. (For those that are wondering, this kit does fit, even though Icon does not advertise as such for 450's and 550's.) The kit is only to lift the front.

Anyway, I have the driver's side buttoned up. One the passenger side I have the new spring hanger mounted with the spring in it. The rear of the front passenger spring is giving me the trouble. I have the new shackle mounted to the frame, but the trouble is that the rear of the spring is too inboard to fit into the shackle.

I think I got luck on the driver's side and it probably helped the passenger side was loose when I was doing the driver side.

The axle u-bolts are loosened.

I think that some combination of the letting one side droop or jacking another side must get it to line up, but I am not figuring it out.

I also have used a little bottle jack on top of the spring, pushing off the bottom of the frame, to coax things up/down, but I need side/side.

If I disconnect the track bar would that help? I have a new one anyways.

I also thought about getting a High-Lift and using at a spreader (base on the drivers frame rail, running horizontally over to the spring and pushing it outboard.

Any advice would be great, I included a few pictures, not sure if they will help or not. Thanks

-8.jpg-5.jpg
 

FordGuy1

Adventurer
Disconnect the trac bar, use the steering to pull it over, finish up the install with trac bar off, put on tires, set on ground and use the steering to re align track bar. Make sure you torque the trac bar to 375ft lbs.
 

bjm206

Adventurer
You need to disconnect the track bar. If the new one is adjustable follow the instructions for installation otherwise it will bind and be very hard to install.
 

brp

Observer
Quick replies, nice. I do have a new, adjustable track bar. When I disconnect the track bar am I going to get a big tension release or pop? Thanks


PS About that monster torque of 360-370ft/lbs, any suggestions? I was thinking of buying a torque multiplier from Northern Tool. I can't find a big torque wrench for under about $300. I could use the torque multiplier with my current torque wrench and it would be a cool tool to have.

PS #2 - My brake lines seem VERY close to being too short, ABS wire is not so bad. Anybody have personal experience with regarding if I should get longer brake lines or not?
 

bjm206

Adventurer
There will be some tension. Unbolt the passenger side spring from the fixed shackle if you are concerned.

Get new brake lines...you can bend the frame mounted tabs down a bit to get some additional clearance.
 

bjm206

Adventurer
I bought DOT approved steel braided Kevlar reinforced lines...From where I cannot remember. As long as the supplier is reputable you should be fine.
 

brp

Observer
I disconnected the end of the track bar that attaches to the axle it became very easy to push/pull the axle around to where I wanted it. I wish Icon would say to disconnect the track bar if you will be installing an adjustable one, as they recommend with this lift kit, because it would have made the whole process much easier.

The track bar hardware is torqued very tight, I tried a few different set-ups with wrenches, torque arms and jacks to loosen it. I just ended up using the approx. 4 foot handle from my hand winch slid over my 1/2 inch ratchet with a 12 point 30mm socket and it worked loose easy. I had the pipe coming out the side horizontal and I just stepped on it firmly and wa-la. Spray with penetrating oil before you start working. The nut is fixed so you only need to worry about the head of the bolt. Also, if you turn the steering all the way to the right it opens up access and makes things easier. I imagine you could buy a 4' or 6' section of iron pipe at home improvement stores if you don't have something like my winch handle. My 1/2 ratchet handled the abuse, so I say don't waste $ on 3/4 in ratchet or breaker bar, unless you are looking at 400+ft/lbs.

Thanks for the advice.
 

brp

Observer
I'm back with another question, hoping you guys can help me out with. Before I installed the lift my big tires had about 1" of clearance, within the wheel well, as the worst spot, basically underneath/behind the headlight. I had about 3.5" of room between the bumpstop and the axle.

Now I have the 3" lift installed and I my thought was that I need to lower the bumpstop, toward the axle, to the point where the tire can't travel up and bust through the wheel well.

I guess my question is that now that I have the lift, can the spring flex to the point that it gets anywhere near the original bumpstop location? I just seems like there is not enough flex in the system or that the new shackle does not have enough degrees of swing to allow for that much articulation. It would be about 7" up.

Before Lift
Original Clearance: 1"
Available up travel: 3.5"
With lift installed, available up travel: 7"

I had rigged up a way to compress the suspension in a controlled manner but it is proving to only be good for about an inch of flex.

Any thoughts would be great. One idea is install Timbrens or Sumo Springs, because they are so much taller than the factory bumpstops, call it a day.

Thanks
 
Last edited:

FordGuy1

Adventurer
You need to lower your bump stops. You can get away with a leveling kit but if you have that much up travel lower you bump stops.
 

brp

Observer
That is what I was thinking. Because a Timbren or Sumo Spring would effectively lower my bumpstops and give me progressive dampening, I am leaning that way.

I sent emails in to both Sumo Spring and Timbren to see how tall their product is and how much it can compress. Hopefully the Sumo Springs will fit the bill because they are cheaper. I've got Timbrens on my rear axle right now and was thinking of replacing those with airbags, an option would be just move those up front. I'll let you guys know what I hear back.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,899
Messages
2,879,326
Members
225,497
Latest member
WonaWarrior
Top