Canadian Disco 2 Build


Expedition Leader
One thing I did before the trip, was tackle the accessory drive system. The pulleys have been making some noise for quite some time, so it was time to fix it before it leaves me stranded somewhere. I removed the tensioner pulley, and both idlers. One of the idlers was very bad, but I replaced all 3 just because.

From left to right, idler with 6304 bearing, idler with 6203 bearing, and tensioner pulley ~90mm 7-rib with 6203 bearing.

The 6304 bearing is uncommon, and had to be overnighted to the parts place. Not a huge deal. This bearing is easy to replace, just remove the retainer and press it out. The other idler is a 6203 which is the most common idler bearing, should be in stock wherever you go. Only problem is the bearing is staked in. I had to drill out the stakes which I'd done half of in the photo. Then press it out, press in the new one, and re-stake it. Lastly, the entire tensioner pulley must be replaced, and it's a bit unusual being 7 rib and 90mm. The replacement part I used was a Dayco 89054, same bearing, slightly smaller OD. Had to be overnighted as well. I believe it's off a 1994 Ford F-250.

Lastly, I replaced the belt. I went with a Goodyear Gatorback, based on my experience with them when at Litens Automotive. We used gatorbacks on the pulley torture test rigs, they held up to whatever we threw at them and outlasted the bearings, so that's good enough for me. 92.3" length.


Expedition Leader
Yesterday I drove up to Land Rover Salvage in Madoc to work with Dom's Autologic and try and sort out the computer issues.

First thing we did was change the settings in the BCU from Automatic to Manual. This is done in two places, one for the BCU and one for the guage cluster. Once that was done, the cruise control started working again.

Then I reset the 4 Amigos which I believe was due to a bad ground behind the left headlight. I had cleaned that up, and with the codes cleared, now the TC and ABS appear to be working with the manual trans. I don't know yet how effective the TC is off-road, but at least it is active and I don't have any lights. I can do a full-effort stop with 2 wheels on ashpalt and 2 on the gravel shoulder, the truck stops straight(ish) and the ABS is working

Next we tried to reprogram the ECU for manual trans, and that's where it got weird. You can't just change settings like you can with the BCU. You have to do a full flash. First, it asks you which part number you have, and there are 4 choices. I got that off the ECU, and selected it. Then it asks you which engine, 4.0 or 4.6. Ok this is looking good. Then it asks you which emissions homologation, 1 of 3 choices... we had no idea which, but guessed it was the "highest". Then it wanted to program the ECU, without asking about the trans. Not wanting to risk bricking the ECU, we stopped. I'm now wondering if the 4 part numbers are where the choice between manual/auto is done, but that's just weird. Why would they need a different ecu for manual/auto, but both 4.0 or 4.6 can be in the same ECU...

Anyway, I left satisfied that the ABS/TC is working, I don't care so much about the cruise but, whatever. However, now I was getting a CEL every time I started the truck. P0705, transmission range selector malfunction. No big surprise there, but why is it only coming up now? And it's annoying having to reset the light every time I start the truck. This morning I disconnected the transmission controller entirely, and so far, no CEL!

I may have accomplished my goals without having to reprogram the ECU.

The other thing is, previously, my ScanGuage wasn't working well. The readings would come and go. I suspect it was becuase the trans controller was hogging all the bandwidth on the network, I'm not sure. Now with the trans controller disconnected, it's working normally again.

My last tank around town I achieved 15.8 MPG. I think I used to get 14's on the commute/town travel. Based on that, I think I might better my previous 80km/h highway trip of 18mpg when I do that next. 20mpg would be sweet.

Also, I got rid of the maddening key-in-ignition-door-open binger! Sweet, I hate that thing!


Expedition Leader
Some wheeling pics from the weekend.

Flex with simple OME springs and shocks and swaybars removed.

As I've said... COUNTLESS water crossings.

Another shot of the rear bumper:

Unbelievably, I'm stuck here. The puddle wasn't too deep, but it was hiding two big rocks just under the surface and I got hung up on the crossmember. :( Did a whole day's worth of 3+ trails, and this is where I get stuck, taking the "easy way" back.

Then again on the "easy" trail home, this stuck:

In this hole, was made worse by people throwing logs into the mess trying to put a bottom in it.

Resulted in this:

Rotten wood packed between the rim and tire. And before anybody mentions Treading Lightly, somebody needs to tell that to the Beavers who are the ones flooding the land.

The guys I was out with. I feel so inadequate.

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Expedition Leader
I knew it.

Now my rear main seal is leaking. I thought about changing the rear main seal when I had the trans out, but wanting to avoid ship fitter's disease... I figured I'd have Murphy's luck either way. If I changed it, I'd screw it up and it would leak. If I didn't change it, it would be worn out and leak.

Well, that or the trans input. Not sure. Oil out the weep hole on the bellhousing. The engine was down to the low mark, so I topped it up. Checked everything else for water in the oil, all looks good, except the trans was a little low too. I think that may be because the oil cooler thermostat didn't open until my trip, so the cooler didn't fill up. Now it did, so it needed to be topped up. Or, it's leaking.

Either way... I REALLLLY don't want to be tearing this all back down again until the winter!


Rob, do you have any close up pictures of your paint pole floods? How did you mount the stick? How are the lamps mounted? Any tips for a copycat starting construction?


Expedition Leader
That's not a paint pole! That's a high-tech fiberglass-aluminum composite telescoping utility mast. ;)

It's mounted with U-bolts to the tire carrier. The only tricky part was machining a new hex-socket-thing to plug in the top. But one could rework the paint roller attachment <ahem, acme scrwe thread> piece to make it work. I'll try to remember to get details.


Expedition Leader
It's really very simple. Just a bar on top to support both lights. The bar is bolted to the hex adaptor which is clamped in the pole. The whole point of the setup was to be able to get the lights above the roofline so that they can be aimed at the sides if required. They're not wired up yet, if I ever stop using and fixing the truck I'll have some time to do some more improvements. I was going to get some low-strand-count wire, coil it up and have that wrapped around the pole so that it can stretch when the mast is up.


As far as wiring goes my paint pole, errr high-tech fiberglass-aluminum composite telescoping utility mast is hollow enough up the center to house a coiled cable, like a phone cord if anyone is old enough to remember phones before cordless and wireless. I have found one from a 12VDC charger to use. It is rather small gauge wire, questionable for even an LED, so I am exploring other options. If anyone reading this post knows of a source coil using 16ga or 18 ga wire, please pass it along. The coiled pigtails for trailer lights is too large.



I once made a similar coiled wire by wrapping the wire tightly around a piece of 1/2 inch aluminum conduit and attaching the ends to the conduit with sheet metal screws. I "flame brushed" the coil of wire with a propane torch until the insulation was softened and let it cool. I did this 3 times to make sure the insulation on the wire took a good set. It worked pretty well. Just make sure the wire cools completely before releasing the ends from the screws.


Heretic Car Camper carries such an item. Not sure about getting their products on your side of the border.