Canadian Disco 2 Build


Expedition Leader
I did try a JK briefly a little while ago. I'd need more seat time. I know it wasn't great, I ground the gears a bit trying to shift quick, and had to slow down.

Oh, and the redline on the RV8 is super low. 5250rpm. I don't think I've ever had a car that low. The Mustang didn't make any power after 5250, but it would go to 6000 I think.


I did try a JK briefly a little while ago. I'd need more seat time. I know it wasn't great, I ground the gears a bit trying to shift quick, and had to slow down.

Oh, and the redline on the RV8 is super low. 5250rpm. I don't think I've ever had a car that low. The Mustang didn't make any power after 5250, but it would go to 6000 I think.
with a few simple mods the rover V8 will spin alot faster then 5250 for sure. In fact they like to spin fast.

Recommended books for Overlanding

Drive Nacho Drive: A Journey from the American Dream to t...
by Brad Van Orden, Sheena Van Orden
From $15.95
Crossing the Congo: Over Land and Water in a Hard Place
by Mike Martin, Chloe Baker, Charlie Hatch-Barnwell
From $32.5
Lone Rider: The First British Woman to Motorcycle Around ...
by Elspeth Beard
From $19.95
Deep Survival: Who Lives, Who Dies, and Why
by Laurence Gonzales
From $9.99


Expedition Leader
For 4cyl engines

ok, did some more checking and it's not just for 4cyl

This is what I found in the parts catalog for D1 and DII, you might want to compare to the parts you bought.

Push Rod
FTC3912 - TDI & MPI
FTC3913 - V8 EFI

Slave cylinder
TKC2786L LT77
FTC2498 LT77
FTC3911 TDI/MPI/V8 Superceeded by FTC5072
FTC5072 R380 TDI/MPI/V8


Push Rod

Slave Cylinder

No listing for FRC2402 for the DII.
Last edited:


Expedition Leader
Did about a 1000 mile trip with the truck and trailer. All worked perfectly, the shifting is getting better. Got some more seat time in a brand new JK, and the shifter in that is much much better. But mine is getting better, or I'm learning it, I don't know which. Seems to like shifting better at higher RPM (2500-3000) and quicker. Doesn't like slow shifts.

Oh, and I never did post a completed picture of the rear bumper. Here's one, not a closeup. It's a nice poseur shot on some asphalt. :p The drawbar is of course removable.

Last edited:


Expedition Leader
That's what sent me down this path in the first place. I just haven't seen any I liked. Plus, I hate the thread adaptors they use. I just cut the right thread right in, no monkeying around.

What I'm going for is sorta like this:

Just nice and simple turned aluminum. But I don't want it to be shiney, I want to coat it with something, not sure what yet. Ideally, anodized black would be best.

Currently, it's not long enough for a comfortable full-handed grasp, and the edge on top is too sharp when grabbing it that way.

One of the issues with the "inconsistent" feeling shifts is probably down to the fact I used the OEM upper shift lever. It has a big rubber damper in it, in fact, the top and bottom of the stick are not directly connected, they are isolated by rubber. So of course the feel is a bit... rubbery. By comparison, the JK shifter I think is one piece. I actually was... frankly I was stunned by how well it shifted. I thought Honda must have been contracted or something. ;) Super positive and shifts. The only complaint was that, with the super long stick, off-road the thing was bouncing around like crazy. Trying to grab the knob was sometimes like trying to grab an electron.

But yeah, my shifting continues to get better. Maybe it's just the Redline MTL goodness soaking into the syncros. Today, it actually seemed really not too bad. Probably similar to an old watercooled rod-actuated VW box.

Oh, and it appears cruise control doesn't work. Probably because the computer thinks the truck is in park. I dunno. I never liked the cruise on this truck anyway, worst I've ever had.
Last edited:

Root Moose

Expedition Leader
IIRC the JK uses a Mercedes-Benz transmission. They don't have a reputation for terrible shifting transmissions although manual boxes are not their forté.

What about a simple leather wrapped Momo (or similar, cheaper) knob? Getting something machined seems like a bother if you aren't going to leave it in bare metal is all I'm thinking about in that regard.

Cruise is a big PITA, especially with a manual tranmission IME. I wouldn't stress about it's loss.

Does the truck feel more "peppy" now that it isn't losing power through the fluid couple? Noticed any difference in MPGs? I'd expect barely noticeable but maybe a bit better?

We stripped a E36 BMW on the weekend. The shifter mechanism in that was interesting. I'm used to shifters that dump straight into the transmission. Haven't done a clutch in the S yet (although it needs it) so I'm not certain what style it has.

Root Moose

Expedition Leader
Oh, and another thing about a metal knob... they get pretty hot in the heat in summer time. My wife complains about my car when she takes it out to hoon after the auto-x. And I have a hard top so it's not just a convertible thing.

Mind you, doesn't bother me much but then I have the 1-6 shift pattern burned into the palm of my hand. ;) LOL


Expedition Leader
Yes, I've had a metal knob before as well and didn't like it. That's why one of my ideas was just to finish it with Plastidip. That would help. It's really not a bother to make it and then not show it off. That wasn't the point. I have a lathe, and made it out of scrap, so the cost is really just my time, and it doesn't take long. If I end up with a shifter that feels good and I like the look, that's all I want.

The problem with the shifters on the market is most just don't suit the truck. Needs kind of an "industrial" meets LL Bean kinda look. ;) Alien knob knobs just don't look right.

Looked at Momo's and the only one I liked was the Gara. Actually, I like it a lot. But then you're stuck with the boot not fitting right anyway. I can fix that with a custom one. I have a Sparco in the ZX3, and the boot just doesn't fit.

I don't know if it's peppier or not... I'm driving it faster just because it's more fun. I also put more load on it last week than ever before. I definitely think it pulled up hills a lot better. Anytime you have it loaded where it would unlock the converter, the manual trans will kill it for efficiency.

On our trip, I got about 12mpg, but that was rolling really heavy. Probably 2500lb trailer, truck full of people and gear, and a massive 17 foot canoe on the roof, through the biggest hills southern Ontario has. The canoe seems to have had a huge effect, more than I thought. Since the truck is a brick anyway, I figured, how much could it hurt? A LOT! The canoe is longer than the truck, and any air going over the top gets messed up. But chugging up a hill in 3rd gear 3000 rpm just FEELS way less strained than 3000rpm 3rd gear and unlocked converter with the auto.

Recommended books for Overlanding

Root Moose

Expedition Leader
Yeah, I've been through those same hills with a canoe on top of my old LWB SJ-413. I was also surprised at the aero drag caused by the canoe. Mind you, three adults, a big dog and two complete sets of camping gear being powered by 1300cc's on 33" tires didn't help either.


Expedition Leader
If you think the shifters are weird on bmws, MkIV vw'shave a backasswards way of connecting them as well.

Rob, get any shifter that you like the feel of and then have it leather wrapped to match the interior.