Camper Shell External Rack - Vantech

keezer37

Explorer
Doesn't look like you can use it if your topper lips over the bedsides. My ARE CX does by about an inch. I'd still look very close to ensure the topper is resting on the bedsides and not predominantly on those plates/bolt heads. Water intrusion might be an issue. From first look, if I wanted one bad enough, I'd cut sections out of my plastic bedside protectors to get more of a flush mounting surface. Beyond that, for other trucks, I would have made one long mounting plate for each side with flat head machine screws dispersed out along the length. This way you could ensure a good seal and still have the ability to unbolt the rack arms. That's just first impressions though.

Doesn't look well thought out to me.
 

mountainpete

Spamicus Eliminatus
Why do you say that your shell is not strong enough? What brand is it?

It's actually very rare to see a failure of a shell due to a RTT. It happens, but not often. Here is mine:

3692482279_1f7cb51087_z.jpg


Pete
 

YotaPilot

Adventurer
Why do you say that your shell is not strong enough? What brand is it?

It's actually very rare to see a failure of a shell due to a RTT. It happens, but not often.

Pete

I think it's a Snugtop Supersport. I bought it used so I am not exactly sure. The reason I say the shell is not strong enough because through most of the research I have done, I have found that most shells have a rooftop load capacity of 200-300 pounds. Putting two adults in a RTT up there will be well over that. I would prefer to have something stronger and not be concerned about cracking my shell.
 

DesertBoater

Adventurer
With regards to the lipped cap, mine has a lip, but when I bought my ladder rack, I made the plunge and cut out two spaces for the bedside support plates to extend out from under the shell...it's somewhat of a commitment, but it worked well for me. I've also had the standard Thule bars with WAAAAYYY more than 200-300 lbs up there. It worked, but I wasn't horribly happy with the way it felt driving down the road. Now with the ladder rack, it's super solid, a lower profile, and I'm not worried about anything at all. If I were to do it again, I'd spend the extra money on an aluminum version...less weight, and less maintenance are the primary differences (75 lbs of aluminum vs almost 200 of steel)

Hope that helps,
West
 

Tim A

Adventurer
I think it's a Snugtop Supersport. I bought it used so I am not exactly sure. The reason I say the shell is not strong enough because through most of the research I have done, I have found that most shells have a rooftop load capacity of 200-300 pounds. Putting two adults in a RTT up there will be well over that. I would prefer to have something stronger and not be concerned about cracking my shell.

If there are any markings on it I would try very hard to find out the load rating.

If a shell will hold a dynamic load of 300 lbs, it should be stable enough for 2 adults to sleep in an RTT on top of the shell.

Here's the best example of mounting I've seen:

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/1483-Roof-Tent-Mounting-Options?p=694266#post694266

Maybe contact him to see if he's had any issues.
 

mountainpete

Spamicus Eliminatus
If a shell will hold a dynamic load of 300 lbs, it should be stable enough for 2 adults to sleep in an RTT on top of the shell.

Here's the key. Dynamic versus static load. A shell and crossbar are rated, for legal purposes, for dynamic loads - meaning while the vehicle is moving. The vast majority of shells can hold an easy 1000 lbs. In fact, I have had well over 600 lbs on top of my shell with zero issues.

It's like a boat fiberglass boat hull. Hit it with a hammer and it will crack, but place the load evenly and it can hold an elephant.

Pete
 

YotaPilot

Adventurer
With regards to the lipped cap, mine has a lip, but when I bought my ladder rack, I made the plunge and cut out two spaces for the bedside support plates to extend out from under the shell...it's somewhat of a commitment, but it worked well for me. I've also had the standard Thule bars with WAAAAYYY more than 200-300 lbs up there. It worked, but I wasn't horribly happy with the way it felt driving down the road. Now with the ladder rack, it's super solid, a lower profile, and I'm not worried about anything at all. If I were to do it again, I'd spend the extra money on an aluminum version...less weight, and less maintenance are the primary differences (75 lbs of aluminum vs almost 200 of steel)

Hope that helps,
West

Thanks for the input. Is this like the ladder rack you have? Do you have any issues with it sticking out from the side of the bed/shell?
17548d1173744062-ladder-rack-with-camper-shell-dscf1205.jpg
 

YotaPilot

Adventurer
Here's the key. Dynamic versus static load. A shell and crossbar are rated, for legal purposes, for dynamic loads - meaning while the vehicle is moving. The vast majority of shells can hold an easy 1000 lbs. In fact, I have had well over 600 lbs on top of my shell with zero issues.

It's like a boat fiberglass boat hull. Hit it with a hammer and it will crack, but place the load evenly and it can hold an elephant.

Pete

Thanks for the input Pete. Glad to hear you have put that much load up there with no issues. Just curious, what kind of shell to you have?
 

AbleGuy

Officious Intermeddler
Save yer money.....build internal frame!

My choice was to save money and build an internal frame (2 x 4's), like the legs of a table with connecting crossbars width-wise and length-wise......then you can through-bolt a similar frame of wood or metal on top of cap.

Just make sure to seal through bolt holes in roof,
Glue or use spray foam to mate top of inside frame snugly to inside of cap roof,

Cheap, strong and you can customize to fit your needs...
 

Uglyduck

Adventurer
My setup is the one linked above, its a Snugtop Cab-Hi with an Eezi Awn 1600. I've been using it in that configuration for 2 years without issue. I dont recall finding anything specific from Snugtop on load limits but didn't expect to either due to the liability, like Pete mentioned. With the 1600, my wife and I, and 1.25 dogs, I figure the weight to be around 550-600lbs total on top of the shell. I don't have any empirical data to back up my experience but its worked just fine thus far. I've heard of, but never seen in photo or in person, a shell fail with an RTT on it and all users I've solicited (2 or 3?) have had experiences similar to mine.
 

mountainpete

Spamicus Eliminatus
Thanks for the input Pete. Glad to hear you have put that much load up there with no issues. Just curious, what kind of shell to you have?

I'm running a Range Rider which is made by a small company in the interior of British Columbia. I chatted with their owners a few times over the years - always the same story. Everyone in the industry knows that a shell can hold a huge amount of weight without breaking (especially the smaller ones on trucks like doublecabs). But for legal purposes they can't claim anything over 200 lbs capacity. Otherwise people will try and put pianos up there.

Pete
 
D

Deleted member 9101

Guest
Simple solution, brace the camper shell from the inside.
 
I asked a few of the same questions not too long ago- here's the link to that thread

Some of the same answers are in there, (thanks mtnPete for being consistent :D )
But there's also some other info. I'm just trying to keep info together or at least linked for those in the future wondering the same questions.

Good luck with your project!
 

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