California Adventures M1102 Build (2019)

Bought a 2007 M1102 from GovPlanet at $1100 out the door. Should make for a good platform for a simple off-road trailer.

Will be pulling behind my 2000 Ford Excursion 7.3L w 6” lift and 35x13.5 tires.

Pic of the trailer the day I picked it up:
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And here is a picture of the trailer I want to build that I found online. I have been searching for the build thread:
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Will add my build plan next... thx!!


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M1102 BUILD PLAN...

Will organize this a bit better, but for now here are my notes for the build...

LED lighting conversion
- Buy replacement LEDs lights (complete, $60)
- Buy wiring harness (complete, $80)
Wiring; 21-498
Buy 2 yellow LED marker lights $7each
And 2 red LED marker lights $7each
Check and clean all wiring

Adjustable Pintle Hitch with 4-8” drop/raise

XL (3-4 person) Roof Top Tent
- Anti condensation pad
- Skylight zippers
- Telescoping ladder with ability for extra height
- Buy extra 2-3” memory foam mattress for extra comfort ($150)

Tent annex

Batwing awning
- Measure length of roof rack

Custom rigid roof rack
- Use current trailer bed mount locations (removable)
- Use lighter weight tubing for easier removable, but still able to hold 1000#+
- Ability to install/mount LED Pods (around tubing) and run wires through poles and into trailer (drill hole at base of poles to pull wires through)
- Weld on (2) flagpole mounts with (2) whip mounts with ability to pull electric for lite-up whips.
- Build around Bedside toolboxes (black), using original mounts for the toolboxes as well. Place between the rooftop rack frame mounts.
- Optional: Add a basket on opposite side of the RTT for lightweight gear/tubs (measure so it’s correct size for Action Packer tubs.
Roof Rack Build/Options:
Jim Lange (referral from Jeff Geck) 909-762-4592
Send all details, photos, mock-up drawing

Bedside tool boxes
72” long double door boxes on each side with locks and weather resistant. Mount in stock trailer top mounts/threaded holes with roof top rack around it to be extra sturdy.

LED lights (pods), match lights from Gizmo with ability to change colors.

Battery box + 5gal Propane tank holder combo in front

Research electrical needs including ability to charge from tow vehicle using 7-pin plug while in-tow, ability to charge via solar panel and ability for plug in from generator.

Solar panel charger

Shower + Hot Water for dishes:
Extra sturdy PVC or ABS 30 gallon water tank mounted in front/center of trailer (black) OR, find one that can be mounted under the trailer like a toy hauler that is long and shallow so it’s does take up bed space.
12v RV water pump (good pressure)
12v RV instant propane water heater
Outdoor coil style shower hose with mount on roof top tent rack with teak wood floor and possible shower tent. Use water conserving shower head ($300-400) Hose has valve for a second hose for dishes (separate dish table/sink)

Optional: Dual drawer box
One side will have 2, 2-burner camp chef removable stoves (pre-hooked up using propane tanks on front of trailer). Easy to remove the entire grill for cleaning.
Other side is a full drawer with separated compartments for food and other items











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Last edited:
Vehicle update...

I am planning on selling the Excursion and buying a new-to-me lifted Jeep JK. Trailer should be approx 3000# loaded, so should work fine with the appropriate gearing in the jeep.

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Light issues:
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I bought the 7 pin military to civilian harness and followed the instructions from Expedition Supply. I also found similar instructions at https://referenceonly.wordpress.com/m1102/

The wiring instructions stated to put the GREEN wire to #21. There was not a #21, but there was a #21-498 on my trailer. I did install to #21-498.
After installation, I tested out the lights. The LED "Truck-Lite" brand lights (10v-30v) worked on the curbside only, 2 lights. All other marker lights did not work.
Is it possible that the rest of the LED marker lights (both red and yellow) are burned out?

My next step is to use a voltage meter to see if any current is going to these lights.

Any help or suggestions are appreciated.


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I got some feedback in a Facebook group that the connections simply get old and start shorting out. My plan is to remove and check connections on each light, reattach and add dielectric grease to the connections and figure out which lights need to be replaced.


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Prep and paint this weekend.
After deciding between Raptorliner, Monstaliner and Herculiner, I decided to just go with Rustoleum Bedliner spray in the bed and wheel wells and Rustoleum Semi Gloss paint everywhere else. Finished with Rustoleum matte crystal clear coat.

We shall see how it works! Ciest La’Vie!



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bemerritt

Member
Looks good black. Always wonder if its more of a pain to start from scratch or get one of these at auction and deal with the potential problems that come with it.
 
Looks good black. Always wonder if its more of a pain to start from scratch or get one of these at auction and deal with the potential problems that come with it.

There’s not a ton of issues
1) Convert from 24v to 12v (easy harness install)
2) Change bulbs to LED (some are already done)
3) Decide if you want to change the pintle out or lower it for your rig (is perfect for my lifted Excursion)
4) Easy to change out wheels and tires
5) Brakes - in fine with the current brakes. Issue is backing up on a trail And the brakes engaging. We shall see.

Good luck


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Looks good black. Always wonder if its more of a pain to start from scratch or get one of these at auction and deal with the potential problems that come with it.

There’s not a ton of issues
1) Convert from 24v to 12v (easy harness install)
2) Change bulbs to LED (some are already done)
3) Decide if you want to change the pintle out or lower it for your rig (is perfect for my lifted Excursion)
4) Easy to change out wheels and tires
5) Brakes - I am fine with the current brakes. Issue is backing up on a trail And the brakes engaging. We shall see.

Love how beefy this is.

RTT rack and toolboxes going on next...

Good luck


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My biggest worry buying this trailer was getting it titled and registered in CA. I paid the extra $150ish fee to GOVPlanet to do the paperwork for a title. It was suppose to arrive within 4-6 weeks, but took 3x that.

Received a Utah title and prepared for inspection. Took to the DMV this am and passed the visual inspection. Was told that the VIN was not pulling up in their system, but he called over and manager and mad it work. Took about 3 hours and $95 to get it done, but it’s done and I’m happy.

Plus it start hailing... Good OMEN?
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Mattdaddy1974

New member
How much was the rack and what material. Looks sweet! I have a Sting Gray Gladiator and a tan M1102. Just picked it up on Wednesday from private seller for $1200. The title says it’s a 2002. I plan pretty much the same general build as you. My goal is to have a multifunctional and dependable trailer to go camping and haul yard waste. I’m thinking of ditching the surge brakes all together. I’d like to convert to a ball type coupler as well. I want to keep the emergency brakes though. My trailer has the surge brakes locked out so backing is easy. I’m just trying to put it on a diet by getting the surge brakes off the younger and converting to Jeep compatible hubs and wheels. I figure I will save around 300 to 400 lbs. I plan to keep it in my garage so I’ll be pushing it around a lot.
 

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