Building a fully enclosed Overland trailer to be towed by a Jeep

OldGreen

Active member
OK, so.. .back ground:
I did 3 complete laps of the US in 2020 all while pulling and camping in my Opus trailer both on and off the grid. From the swamps of Florida to the beach in Texas, AZ and UT deserts, the Enchanted Rockies Trail in NM, SW Colorado and all the way up the Pacific Coast. . .I learned a LOT. The Opus was and is GREAT at what it was designed for. However, our needs have changed and a couple of things have to happen moving forward:

1. Zero minutes minimum set up time. In the new world, we often find ourselves pulling into an impromptu site late at night. . .we just wanna go to bed and/or chow down. We need to be able to just stop, get in some proximity of level and go to bed.
2. Sometimes we are very much ON the grid and mama needs to use the facilities. nuff said.
3. Having the option to shower and/or cook inside when you are parked at a hot spring in 10 degree weather would be sweet. Coffee without stepping outside is REQUIRED.
4. Speaking of that, we'd LOVE to use the water system at that very same spot.
5. No Propane. After trying to help the attendant find the key to the machine in rural Mississippi. . .I'm out on PPX.
6. Still gotta be able to tow it with the Jeep (2018 JLUR on 37s). So <3500lb GVW.

Things we want to keep from our current trailer:
1. Outside cooking, outside shower
2. Off Road capability (and on road capability)
3. Same basic overall length (17 feet or less from tip to tail with a 12 foot box)
4. Home theater. Didn't seem important until we started traveling in the pandemic.

Buy v. Build:

Buy: It doesn't exist. Don't you dare tell me to look at anything built in Indiana. I worked in the RV industry for years. Staples have NO place in anything that moves, let alone goes off highway.

Build: I have build trailers before. In fact, my off highway trailer was built in my driveway about 5 years ago. I removed the RTT and still use it to haul building materials and such that don't fit in the Jeep. Since BUY won't work, I really had no choice unless I wanted to change my parameters. Ginger the Jeep just works TOO WELL to give up. . .well. . . it is what it is.

So, here we go.

The design:
12'x5.5'. Steel. 3x2 with some other stuff (3x3 for the tongue and 2" Angle for the floor joists/xmembers. Overall Length is right at 16' with the tongue and bumper. Jeep tailgate still opens.
Lock and Roll Hitch
Ark jockey wheel
Composite panels
Arctic Tern doors/windows/cargo doors
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high-and-dry

Active member
Look up sawtooth ultimate and my build here for composite panel construction.

Sawtooth is more a detailed build than mine, but I have a few other details he does not.
 

OldGreen

Active member
Look up sawtooth ultimate and my build here for composite panel construction.

Sawtooth is more a detailed build than mine, but I have a few other details he does not.
I have read every post on this site and probably to the end of the internet on composite construction. I have also interviewed panel manufacturers in the refer truck space. It does make me feel good that I am barking up the right tree.
 

Murdy

New member
Looking good!!!

Already you have me reconsidering a few plans in my head. Maybe I should follow your lead on the tongue?

What size of tires are you running? And what Timbren did you use... Standard height? A lift?
 

OldGreen

Active member
Looking good!!!

Already you have me reconsidering a few plans in my head. Maybe I should follow your lead on the tongue?

What size of tires are you running? And what Timbren did you use... Standard height? A lift?
245/75R16LT BFG ATs. 3500HD with 2" lift. That combo gives me 20" of clearance under the frame with no weight on it. I imagine it to compress about an inch or so. . .maybe an inch and a half with the weight of the box. As far as the tongue, I can't say which type is better. . . underslung v. inline. But if you use the 2" or 4" lift, the underslung tounge isn't needed for clearance. My farmgineer mathed out the stresses and we are still way overkill for 3500lbs. A friend who is an RV tech confirmed that, by sight, it is about 2x as stout as a similar length mass produced travel trailer. And I was worried that it wouldn't be strong enough.
 

high-and-dry

Active member
My 2x3 .120 tongue with a center and 2 angled pieces by a calculator I found was good for a 4500 lb trailer with brakes. I also found a calculator that I had to fudge some numbers told me that my tongue would fail with some where over 20k pounds of load, or about 10g's of force using the weight of my trailer. If it ever takes 10g's of force I think I am not worried about the trailer but how long until the ambulance gets there.
 

OldGreen

Active member
My 2x3 .120 tongue with a center and 2 angled pieces by a calculator I found was good for a 4500 lb trailer with brakes. I also found a calculator that I had to fudge some numbers told me that my tongue would fail with some where over 20k pounds of load, or about 10g's of force using the weight of my trailer. If it ever takes 10g's of force I think I am not worried about the trailer but how long until the ambulance gets there.
My point exactly. I do jump my old one once in a while. . .because of the stiff springs, but it has never even thought about not doing what it was told. It is all .120 except for the RTT rack which is .095.
 

Murdy

New member
245/75R16LT BFG ATs. 3500HD with 2" lift. That combo gives me 20" of clearance under the frame with no weight on it. I imagine it to compress about an inch or so. . .maybe an inch and a half with the weight of the box. As far as the tongue, I can't say which type is better. . . underslung v. inline. But if you use the 2" or 4" lift, the underslung tounge isn't needed for clearance. My farmgineer mathed out the stresses and we are still way overkill for 3500lbs. A friend who is an RV tech confirmed that, by sight, it is about 2x as stout as a similar length mass produced travel trailer. And I was worried that it wouldn't be strong enough.
OK, great! I went with the 4" lift just to ensure no ground clearance issues. I assume I'll be sitting right around the same height as you are currently once I'm fully assembled.

As for the tongue, I thing I'll play that one by ear... once the suspension and wheels are on I'll take some measurements and see where I'd like the hitch to sit height wise. As long as I can open my rear hatch, I'm happy!! Althoug... now that I think of it, I'll have to measure before in order to plan accordingly... but that's no issue.
 

Victorian

Approved Vendor : Total Composites
Like this?
 

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Teardropper

Well-known member
600AH. Yes.

Wowsers...

I'll stick to my propane stove and heater.

Qijqrom.jpg


:cool:

Tony
 

OldGreen

Active member
Wowsers...

I'll stick to my propane stove and heater.

Qijqrom.jpg


:cool:

Tony
I have all that now...but that means I have to go to town. With this battery bank and 600w of Solar and a DC to DC charger, I only need sun and unleaded. In the Summer, I will only be limited by fuel if I stay in one place.
 

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