RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
Excellent
Build: Ram 3500 and Aluminum/Composite Expedition Camper
- Thread starter TrailTestedMFG
- Start date
Excellent
TrailTestedMFG
Active member
I agree that I didn't do a great job of explaining that part. It's pretty difficult to see since it's buried inside the frame. Basically, there is a 3/8"x4" piece of bar stock welded in between two of the rear cross members and the main rail on the sub frame to bolt to. The springs fit inside the frame in the factory bed mount bolt locations. These pictures might make it a bit more clear.
TrailTestedMFG
Active member
We were able to get the truck done enough to drive it to our family Thanksgiving gathering. What a rewarding moment! On our way out of town we got the truck weighed again, 8180#. The weight without the bed was 7220#. The new weight included the rear bumper, shower pan and some misc tools that I estimate to be 100#. So our empty shell including sub frame weight is approximately 860#! Very pleased with that number.
We sourced a door on eBay from an RV parts wholesaler that sells scratch and dents out the back door of one the big manufacturers. I'm pretty sure this door was intended for an R Pod. It had a few minor scratches and a slightly bent mounting flange but overall was in great condition. Courtney vinyl wrapped it to match (and cover the very ugly cream color it came in) and we got it installed.
We considered leaving the back two panels off while we built out the interior to make things easier, but ultimately decided the bathroom needed to come first and it goes in the back corner. Finally! The last panels are in and the box is sealed up!
You can also see the simple rear bumper. This will also get a spare tire carrier added to it. It bolts in to the factory bumper mounts. The idea is that our grey water dump hose will store inside the bumper, a feature I really liked on a travel trailer we owned once.
We made an adapter/spacer that allowed us to install the factory fuel filler and use a locking fuel door. It also seals everything up so fuel can't dribble into the foam.
On the inside, this box seals up the fuel and DEF hoses from the living space but is open on the bottom to give splashed fuel a way to drain out. You can see the stock fuel filler in the top left of this photo. This box slid over the top of that.
This is the start of the shower pan/toilet platform. It is made from 20g #4 finish stainless.
The bathroom vent is one of these Maxxair Dome Plus units. Push up on the handle to open the vent. It also has a built in LED light and integrated switch. Convenient!
Thanks for following along, stay tuned for more!
We sourced a door on eBay from an RV parts wholesaler that sells scratch and dents out the back door of one the big manufacturers. I'm pretty sure this door was intended for an R Pod. It had a few minor scratches and a slightly bent mounting flange but overall was in great condition. Courtney vinyl wrapped it to match (and cover the very ugly cream color it came in) and we got it installed.
We considered leaving the back two panels off while we built out the interior to make things easier, but ultimately decided the bathroom needed to come first and it goes in the back corner. Finally! The last panels are in and the box is sealed up!
You can also see the simple rear bumper. This will also get a spare tire carrier added to it. It bolts in to the factory bumper mounts. The idea is that our grey water dump hose will store inside the bumper, a feature I really liked on a travel trailer we owned once.
We made an adapter/spacer that allowed us to install the factory fuel filler and use a locking fuel door. It also seals everything up so fuel can't dribble into the foam.
On the inside, this box seals up the fuel and DEF hoses from the living space but is open on the bottom to give splashed fuel a way to drain out. You can see the stock fuel filler in the top left of this photo. This box slid over the top of that.
This is the start of the shower pan/toilet platform. It is made from 20g #4 finish stainless.
The bathroom vent is one of these Maxxair Dome Plus units. Push up on the handle to open the vent. It also has a built in LED light and integrated switch. Convenient!
Thanks for following along, stay tuned for more!
TrailTestedMFG
Active member
Episode 4 is up!
RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
I always chuckle when i see "pass throughs" and think theyre is no way in hell the folks would actually fit through them. Especially yours, and then....
The end of your new video is freaking awesome and impressive! Bravo!
Loving this series!
The end of your new video is freaking awesome and impressive! Bravo!
Loving this series!
mog
Kodiak Buckaroo
Damn, that is a magical portal! I saw two short hair dogs go through and then reappear as a German Shepard.
Do you have one that makes Dobermans?
TrailTestedMFG
Active member
We installed some porch lights, and for some reason I thought they should go about half way down the wall. Right at eye level. They are blinding and this will need to be changed.
We've been working on getting everything done inside that needs to get done before we can add the interior skeleton. Proper SIP construction relies on both the external and internal panel skins being bonded. This has included wiring of lights, switches, vents, USB charge points, etc. We also wall papered the walls in the areas that will be exposed so the edges of the wall paper can be covered by the internal framing/trim.
Unlike our past projects, Courtney insisted that we label as we go. Turns out that makes it much easier to remember which wire does what.
Here's a shot of the finished product, the trim parts are both glued and riveted. The wood is Alder plywood.
The wet bath is starting to come together.
The shower area will get a Teak grate to keep from getting wet feet in the middle of the night.
Vent/light installed.
The two "exterior" shower walls are lined with "Smartcore" waterproof engineered hardwood flooring. It's a real wood veneer laminated to a very tough plastic/composite backing. Seems like super high quality stuff. The Alder plywood that makes up the "interior" shower walls has been laminated with stainless on the shower side. The edges of the plywood are trimmed out with some formed aluminum that will also become the door seal.
We've been working on getting everything done inside that needs to get done before we can add the interior skeleton. Proper SIP construction relies on both the external and internal panel skins being bonded. This has included wiring of lights, switches, vents, USB charge points, etc. We also wall papered the walls in the areas that will be exposed so the edges of the wall paper can be covered by the internal framing/trim.
Unlike our past projects, Courtney insisted that we label as we go. Turns out that makes it much easier to remember which wire does what.
Here's a shot of the finished product, the trim parts are both glued and riveted. The wood is Alder plywood.
The wet bath is starting to come together.
The shower area will get a Teak grate to keep from getting wet feet in the middle of the night.
Vent/light installed.
The two "exterior" shower walls are lined with "Smartcore" waterproof engineered hardwood flooring. It's a real wood veneer laminated to a very tough plastic/composite backing. Seems like super high quality stuff. The Alder plywood that makes up the "interior" shower walls has been laminated with stainless on the shower side. The edges of the plywood are trimmed out with some formed aluminum that will also become the door seal.
TrailTestedMFG
Active member
Near the bottom corner it was possible to *carefully* sneak it in.
Hey you asked for it!
Your series was a major source of inspiration both to do the project in the first place, and to document it on YouTube. Its fun to be a member of this great community!
RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
Thank you sir, very kind of you! I wish i had half your skills!
whats the plan for connection the interior panel together? fiberglassing the joint? Also, did you test the rivet to see if they delaminate the panel from the foam when you put them in? i know they say to not screw anything in fiberglass composite panel so i m wondering? i really love your idea of individual panel like this as it s much more managable to do vs building 1 big panel for each side!
keep the good work! looking forward to the next update!
TrailTestedMFG
Active member
Check out my previous post for how the interior panels are bonded. We are making aluminum trim and gluing/riveting it to the plywood to bond the panels.
I'm sure the rivets did pull the skin away from the foam in some spots but there was no other way to assemble it (that I could figure out at least) Welding the exo had warped things just enough that it was no longer perfectly flat so we needed to physically clamp the panels into the structure. At one point I was hoping the VHB would be sufficient to hold the panels while the Sika cured. Not the case.
I defiantly would't go mounting exterior accessories straight to the exterior skin. That seems like it would be a recipe for delamination.
Yes breaking the design down into smaller panels made things much more manageable for the two of us. It also created a really strong exo skeleton so we aren't relying on the strength of the panels nearly as much as some of the other builds I have watched.
Thanks for the questions and for following!
TrailTestedMFG
Active member
Our next episode is up, where we start tackling some of the interior of the camper!