Build Primer?
- Thread starter RJ Howell
- Start date
RJ Howell
Active member
I found (actually on this forum!) another that pull his bed off his truck. His weight came out just over 400#'s without the tailgate. I'm estimating 50#'s for the tailgate. I know this isn't anywhere near exact, but should ballpark me close. I went 450#'s total and since I'm a 6.5 bed, I divided by 8 and multiplied by 6.5. Give me an estimated 365#'s I'd be removing. Until I know better I'm going to work with 350#'s thinking that would be a safe number.
My camper build is coming in just under 600#'s. So giving me a camper shell add of of 250#'s. Goal is to stay at/under 500#'s loaded (passengers excluded).
My camper build is coming in just under 600#'s. So giving me a camper shell add of of 250#'s. Goal is to stay at/under 500#'s loaded (passengers excluded).
badm0t0rfinger
Raptor Apologist.
Honestly there is no primer for your build other than what you have or what you want to have, and what you want to do.
SquirrelZ
Member
Like you, I'm in the initial planning stages of a pickup camper. It will be a foam and fiberglass design. Although I'll be using a Toyota Tacoma, so similar weight constraints. I too have considered removing the factory bed off the back of the truck and replacing it with a flat bed. The open access on the sides is very appealing. The real downside is the higher center of gravity, which is pretty much a deal breaker for me. The additional cost isn't a plus either.
RJ Howell
Active member
Foam and fiberglass is what I'm doing. My last 'Topper' was done this way and is amazingly structural. Intention is a tubular frame (of sorts) to support the overhead and do a pop-top to relieve the top-heavy issue (and allow it on a 1/2 ton frame). I won't make a flatbed, not seeing the need, frame up build. I have no need for it to come off, yet it still could and a flat bed be placed. I just don't see the need for both at the same time besides you lose the weight reduction of removing the bed if you put a flatbed back on and build up from there.
Any who.. Hopefully out of the weld shop today and back over to the garage to finish inspection and a solid look over underneath.
RJ Howell
Active member
Okay, frame is done! It's getting the inspection completed now.
I guess I didn't know diddley about my truck.. Now I know diddley...
2004 F 150. (had that part lol)
4.6L V8 (surprise!!!)
Axle is code 19. That should mean 3.55 gears & open differential.
GVWR 6,950. Rear @ 3,800. Has always baffled me when the GVWR is less than the total of the front&rear combined..
Tranny is code A. Which I'm not finding...
Spring is code TTMM. Which I'm also not finding.
Once it's back I figure to head over to the scales and confirm some weights. Fairly important for what I hope to do.
I guess I didn't know diddley about my truck.. Now I know diddley...
2004 F 150. (had that part lol)
4.6L V8 (surprise!!!)
Axle is code 19. That should mean 3.55 gears & open differential.
GVWR 6,950. Rear @ 3,800. Has always baffled me when the GVWR is less than the total of the front&rear combined..
Tranny is code A. Which I'm not finding...
Spring is code TTMM. Which I'm also not finding.
Once it's back I figure to head over to the scales and confirm some weights. Fairly important for what I hope to do.
RJ Howell
Active member
Found the Tranny and spring info on the Ford Forum. Good there now.
Had an opportunity to look under a F250 that been lifted at the shop today. Front coils looked like he put a spacer block over the coil. That looks like an easy way to gain the inch I wish up front. Pro's / Con's to doing this???
Rear looks like he went airbag. I had airbags years ago, I'm sure they're better now, yet still not keen on that route.. I first thought I'd go some sort of timbren style but now thinking of swinging by the spring shop (Donovan) and have them spec a leaf add for my additional weight/lift want.
Had an opportunity to look under a F250 that been lifted at the shop today. Front coils looked like he put a spacer block over the coil. That looks like an easy way to gain the inch I wish up front. Pro's / Con's to doing this???
Rear looks like he went airbag. I had airbags years ago, I'm sure they're better now, yet still not keen on that route.. I first thought I'd go some sort of timbren style but now thinking of swinging by the spring shop (Donovan) and have them spec a leaf add for my additional weight/lift want.
85_Ranger4x4
Well-known member
It just means when you have your snowplow on the front if you fill the salt spreader too much you can overload your truck.
Each axle has its own max but you are not supposed to exceed the overall.
RJ Howell
Active member
Okay now, my process to date has been:
Engine. It's not going to last, stop right there!
Frame. Same as engine
Body. Rust spots repaired
Now I have a base to work with. Figure next steps as:
1" Lift. I require the rear to be upgrade a bit anyway.
Tires. I'm doing a 4500 mile byways run to a family wedding in SD the spring. That should do in the existing tires. Upgrade to 2" taller (which I originally had).
That in it's self gets me most anywhere 'I' will go.
With time:
Rear Differential to LS. Not required, great to have, yet just not required... yet.
Change out bumpers and winch.
Upgrade my recovery gear
Pretty much the order I see for now. See something important I've missed?
Engine. It's not going to last, stop right there!
Frame. Same as engine
Body. Rust spots repaired
Now I have a base to work with. Figure next steps as:
1" Lift. I require the rear to be upgrade a bit anyway.
Tires. I'm doing a 4500 mile byways run to a family wedding in SD the spring. That should do in the existing tires. Upgrade to 2" taller (which I originally had).
That in it's self gets me most anywhere 'I' will go.
With time:
Rear Differential to LS. Not required, great to have, yet just not required... yet.
Change out bumpers and winch.
Upgrade my recovery gear
Pretty much the order I see for now. See something important I've missed?
RJ Howell
Active member
Conversation with the spring shop resulted in rear no issue, yet front coils would be a 2" raise minimum. It's just what they make..
So that lead me to.. I haven't even measured what I have! So out I went. Ground to wheel well top F/R, top of tire to wheel well F/R, then ground to body F/R. Comes out to a 2" lower front.
That leads to... Should I be setting for a level truck? or Should the front be say 1" lower?
I'm nearing be able to really determine my camper build weight. Not just shell, but true carry weight. This I need to size the rear leaf add.
Opinions please! Level or down an 1" in the front?
So that lead me to.. I haven't even measured what I have! So out I went. Ground to wheel well top F/R, top of tire to wheel well F/R, then ground to body F/R. Comes out to a 2" lower front.
That leads to... Should I be setting for a level truck? or Should the front be say 1" lower?
I'm nearing be able to really determine my camper build weight. Not just shell, but true carry weight. This I need to size the rear leaf add.
Opinions please! Level or down an 1" in the front?
85_Ranger4x4
Well-known member
If you level it now with no airbags or way to to level it, chances are you will be nose up when you get the truck loaded.
My Ranger has the factory rake and when I am loaded for cross country travel (topper + gear) it is pretty much running level. I have rear springs from a 2009 Supercab so it is a little stouter than it started out. Your truck should be harder to level (more payload) but you will probably have more gear.
RJ Howell
Active member
Found my stock 'rake' (new term to me). 3.6" at curb weight, 4.5" of rear leaf travel (loaded) and .4" rake loaded. Source is the F150 Builder's Spec Book (I found where I put my copy). I have 1690lbs as maximum payload and figuring all in I'll be adding (at most) 800lbs as fixed weight. Need to get a hold of a ME to figure sag F/R on suspension..
What have I learned with this.. I have about 200lbs of cargo weight now (topper/gear) and I have a 2" existing rake. I've already lost 1.6" with age, current load and fuel (assuming fuel weight is not included in curb weight). Fuel alone is over 200lbs.. (6lbs a gallon).
Hoping today to conform my rear axle weight, empty.
What have I learned with this.. I have about 200lbs of cargo weight now (topper/gear) and I have a 2" existing rake. I've already lost 1.6" with age, current load and fuel (assuming fuel weight is not included in curb weight). Fuel alone is over 200lbs.. (6lbs a gallon).
Hoping today to conform my rear axle weight, empty.
nitro_rat
Lunchbox Lockers
The biggest expense for me on a project is wheels, tires, gears, and lockers. These all need to happen at the same time. If your tire choice requires a suspension lift then that needs to happen at the same time too. This can add up to several thousands of dollars at one time.
My experience with the 4.6 tells me that you won't be happy with 3.55's. I like a Detroit Locker or Yukon Grizzly in the back. Having proper gearing and a rear locker will make a bigger difference in the driveability of your project than anything else. With a camper sticking up over the cab you'll want more gear to help fight the wind at highway speeds and the gearing will help off road too. I would recommend somewhere in the 4.10 range if you're sticking with a 265/31"ish tire and 4.56 range if you're moving up to a 285/33"ish tire.
My experience with the 4.6 tells me that you won't be happy with 3.55's. I like a Detroit Locker or Yukon Grizzly in the back. Having proper gearing and a rear locker will make a bigger difference in the driveability of your project than anything else. With a camper sticking up over the cab you'll want more gear to help fight the wind at highway speeds and the gearing will help off road too. I would recommend somewhere in the 4.10 range if you're sticking with a 265/31"ish tire and 4.56 range if you're moving up to a 285/33"ish tire.
85_Ranger4x4
Well-known member
With 265's and 4.10's my brother's '97 4.6 was pretty stout.