BudgetBuilder 4runner

budgetbuilder

Observer
thanks Blind C! The wheels were actually the first thing I swapped out. I sold them for cheap on CL. I think I let them go for $150 with good 30" tires.
 

budgetbuilder

Observer
extra rear window switch

Ok so I picked up an extra factory rear window switch (3 terminal) from the junkyard. I tapped blue/white wire from relay to the "down" terminal on the switch, blue/black wire to the "up" terminal on the switch and the white/black wire to ground on the switch. Bingo! The extra switch works ....but now the factory switch in the cab and the key in the tailgate no longer works. I disconnected the extra switch and all the factory settings are back.
What do I need to do to have the "in cab" switch work as normal with ignition on and have the extra switch mounted in the back setup as always on?

I am going to try connecting the extra switch directly to the tailgate switch to see if that works.

Happy New Year!
 
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budgetbuilder

Observer
Two questions. Has your gas mileage drastically decreased with all the armor on there now? and would you have considered that exo cage roof rack with the hard top? trying to decide my options for a RTT.
Regarding your question, I probably have a slight decrease in mileage but nothing overly noticeable. Also now that I have swapped the hardtop back on I probably would not run both the hardtop and roof rack together. Although the roof rack is slighlty lighter than the hardtop, combining both would be super heavy and I would definately notice some MPG decrease and probably some sagging in the rear.
 
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4Rescue

Expedition Leader
Ok so I picked up an extra factory rear window switch (3 terminal) from the junkyard. I tapped blue/white wire from relay to the "down" terminal on the switch, blue/black wire to the "up" terminal on the switch and the white/black wire to ground on the switch. Bingo! The extra switch works ....but now the factory switch in the cab and the key in the tailgate no longer works. I disconnected the extra switch and all the factory settings are back.
What do I need to do to have the "in cab" switch work as normal with ignition on and have the extra switch mounted in the back setup as always on?

I am going to try connecting the extra switch directly to the tailgate switch to see if that works.

Happy New Year!
Welcome to the joys of the Toyota roll-down rear window!!!!!

Sadly I don't have any specific answers for you (sorry) but if you go to 4Crawler.com he's got a BUNCH of tech and mod pages and lots of stuff about the rear window and the control-box (it's behind the driver in the wall next to the rear pass if you didn't know already) etc. I had issues with my rear window from the day I bought my 1st Gen. Sometimes it worked great, often it acted like one of the safety-switches weer thrown and it wasn't even getting power. At one point I couldn't get into the back of my truck for good (try loading half of a band in from the passenger seat-flipped forward... my 2x12 tube amp alone almost gave me a hernia) Eventually I just cross-wired the pins in the control box for an "always hot" and mounted a dual throw ("double pole double throw" I seem to remember or maybe I'm losing it, electrical is not my forte) momentary switch in the trim panel next to my driver'side seat-belt track and since we sleep in the back it's worked out great.

Truck look great man, fun build and I always love a 1st Gen 4Runner.

Cheers

Dave
 
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