Brainstorming

After a few years of kicking around the idea, I have decided to finally build a trailer. I am thinking of an enclosed 5x8 or 5x10.

I have a couple questions.
What are you guys setting the trailers track width at? Keep the wheels of the trailer following in the tracks on the tow vehicle or just narrower?
Also, I am looking at the Tembren axleless system. Is there anywhere to buy online? On there website it lists the local dealers. None are really close to me.
 

tatanka48

Active member
a trailer that tracks wider than the TV may not be able to follow you to your chosen destination

same is true for the trailer body and the TV's body

IMHO 'twould be quite sad to head off and find 2 rocks(love pebbles) that Mother Nature positioned in such a way that the TV could go on butt you couldn't take your gear with you :-(

as for the suspension system just ponder breaking a component on a system that isn't universally available

just this old man's 2¢ worth this evening
 
Thanks for the heads up Flipmachine. I forgot about them, actually had that website saved under favorites.

Tatanka, good point on parts availability. My primary offroad rig is a full size bronco. Body has a width of 79" and a WMS of 65" so the trailer should have no problem being narrower and still meet my size needs. It makes sense to me that the trailer be narrower than the truck, but just wanted to double check that it causes no issues towing.
 

SoDakSooner

Adventurer
agree with tatanka. As much as I love the timbren stuff, you can find parts for the good old dexter axle just about anywhere. (not saying I wouldn't do Timbren, just something to consider) Plus Dexters are a lot cheaper and it's not like you are riding in the trailer anyway.

I set my trailer up to mimic the track width of my Jeep(it's not perfect, but close). It is an old m101a2, but my Dexter was ordered at the width closest to the jeep I could get. Also, if you plan on using a factory style aluminum wheel, make sure you account for spacers as a lot of them won't match up to a trailer style hub.
 
More good points SoDakSooner.
A standard axle is much cheaper too. I would consider a torsion axle as well as it should put the axle beam up a little higher than a leaf spring axle. I shouldn'd need anything heavier than a 3500 pound axle. I do want it to run 8x6.5 rims though so the bolt pattern matches my Bronco. That and I already have rims and 37" tires to use. I hope I can find a hub that fits a 3500 axle in that bolt pattern so I don't have to run spacers. Looking at the Timbren, I think I would have to run spacers to keep that large of a tire from rubbing. I really need to do some measuring.

I need to box of the trailer to have an inside width of 60" Figure 2" for each wall with insulation and such. That puts the outside width of 64" I would like to have fenders on the outside but may have to cut wheel wells into the box to keep it from getting to wide.

Next question. I was planning on using 1/2 plywood that will be fiber glassed for the walls, roof and floor. All seams with be fiber glassed so hopefully no leaks. 3/4 seemed like it would be to heavy and 1/4 seemed to thin and flimsy to keep straight. I plan on using 1x1x1/8 steel tubing inside to give a little structure to it. 1" foam panels everywhere and a thin veneer for inside. Sound like a solid plan?
 

opp

Observer
Think light flexible. ease to repair last for ever fiberglass over foam. Torsion axle 3500 deraited . Can get the arm angle up to 45 up low rider are 45 down. as high as any red neck could want
Timbren need a lot of looking after adjusting to keep tires from rubbing.
 
I believe you will have to use the 5200 lb Timbren to use 8x6.5 lugs. Someone else here did the same thing I got the numbers from him.
 
Next question. I was planning on using 1/2 plywood that will be fiber glassed for the walls, roof and floor. All seams with be fiber glassed so hopefully no leaks. 3/4 seemed like it would be to heavy and 1/4 seemed to thin and flimsy to keep straight. I plan on using 1x1x1/8 steel tubing inside to give a little structure to it. 1" foam panels everywhere and a thin veneer for inside. Sound like a solid plan?

Not sure how much tubing you plan on using, but If you plan on doing a full "cage", with bracing along the sides and top, I'm thinking 1/2" ply coated in resin is going to pack on some pounds quickly. I used quite a bit of that tubing for my 5x7 cabin frame. Just a rough guess, but the frame alone probably weighs around 250-300lbs. Some of that wouldn't be necessary had I not done wheel wells though.

As I read your question, I thought about the exterior panels of standard RVs. I've had a chance to see how a couple were made, and if I'm thinking correctly, it seems like they were skinned in 1/4 fiberglass. Can anyone confirm that? 1/4" is flimsy all alone, but I would imagine being backed with steel bracing, and covered with the rigidity of fiberglass, that it wouldn't actually be as flimsy as you would think. Definitely save on weight too. If I wasn't using the skinning that I am, I believe I'd research that route.



Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

opp

Observer
IF your going to add fiberglass on. Why would you use some thing that will rot? Go look at some foam not the white junk. Cost is less than good plywood 1'' will not flop. My trailer is 520 lbs. look at some of the videos about making foam cabinets. Why are planes made from foam and glass could it be light and strong
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
1/8 steel tube is pretty thick. If you have the skill and ability, I would weld it from something much thinner and save a lot of lbs. the strength is derived much more from the cross section than from the thickness. Thickness just makes the welding more forgiving.
 
Thank you for the feedback guys.
Main reason I was thinking 1/2 ply was because its cheap and easy to get and work with. I would go 1/4 or 3/8 but they always seem warped. Not worried about rot. I was planning on coating all edges, corners and cut areas with resin. Was only planning on one layer of mat on the outside. If thinner ply can be used then maybe a second layer if needed.

I will look into foam also.

I guess I can go a bit lighter than 1/8 wall tubing on the inside. How much tubing that will be used will be directly correlated on how strong the walls are. Flimsy will mean more tube. The frame of the trailer should be stiff and help keep the box sturdy too.
 

ottsville

Observer
Some wall strength also comes from interior structures. In a teardrop, the shelving and divider between sleeping area and kitchen area adds to the structure of the entire box.

But if you are looking at steel tube framed cabin, look at Firemedic's build and also Aspenx build threads here.

As I read your question, I thought about the exterior panels of standard RVs. I've had a chance to see how a couple were made, and if I'm thinking correctly, it seems like they were skinned in 1/4 fiberglass. Can anyone confirm that? 1/4" is flimsy all alone, but I would imagine being backed with steel bracing, and covered with the rigidity of fiberglass, that it wouldn't actually be as flimsy as you would think. Definitely save on weight too. If I wasn't using the skinning that I am, I believe I'd research that route.

Here's how Rpod walls are made:
The exterior product is called filon, it is a fiberglass sheet that is 1/16" thick. It is very flexible and benefits from a solid backing.

Fiberglass layups for whitewater kayaks are probably less than 1/8" and very rigid. They are also vacuum bagged in a mold and often a composite of glass weave, carbon, and kevlar. So you can get a thin, rigid fiberglass without a solid backing, but it is labor intensive, lots of dangerous and messy chemicals that are also expensive.

There are some cool products out there that can be used for skinning on top of a frame. One that stands out to me is alumalite or ACM. It is two layers of aluminum with corrugated plastic between. Here's a build on TNTTT but I believe they laminated it to a plywood wall. With a frame that shouldn't be necessary. You could get away with using VHB/UHB tape to apply it to your frame.

If you don't want a frame, this thread shows a product from carbon core that is pretty cool and could be used without an interior frame. There's at least one other thread here on expo which used that to build a camper.
 

opp

Observer
Filon Siding will mold fall apart .Most is thin glass over paper . We build with foam under glass Easer than wood are steel look at the fiberglass eggs the only thing that goes bad is the wood . filon is some of the biggest crap it go on fast and low cost .look at what the new airplanes are made from. Filon Siding is why most trailers die after 5 years The way we build can last over a 100 years . But if you sell trailers that is bad one trailer for a life time are two
 
Last edited:
Why not something like Alucobond Plus for interior and exterior sheeting. You can bond foam insulation to it. It is easily cut and formed with typical sheet metal tools. I don't know if the fire resistant material between the two aluminum sheets is enough to stop thermal bridging.
https://www.alucobondusa.com/products.html
Comes in a different UV resistant finishes and is offered in plain unfinished to be painted or vinyl wrapped.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,840
Messages
2,878,753
Members
225,393
Latest member
jgrillz94
Top