I have some questions about your thermostat project. Where exactly is the propane furnace and can you get to it from the inside or outside of the trailer? If you can get to the furnace you could disconnect the existing thermostat wire and make a new wire that could be routed through the floor and up into the battery compartment. I already have a wire routed through the floor of the battery compartment to the front of the trailer for the refrigerator so I would only have to drill one hole near the propane furnace and use the existing hole in the battery compartment. Then the wire could be fished up behind the bench seat. At least on the 2020 model I am told by the technician there is a cable management system under the trailer to route wires. He even showed me a bag of wire grommets (for routing through the floor) Black Series gives you when you buy the trailer. Do you think this might work? I am going to use this same method when I run the 12v for the composting toilet (it needs 12v for the fan on the toilet).The thermostat is not in the best place. It is right above the heater, and that results in either you having to set the thermostat to its highest setting, and that might not be enough, and/or the thermostat frequently cycling the heater on and off. Which is not efficient in actually heating up the trailer. So I did two things. I upgraded to a simple digital thermostat. A Honeywell TH1100DV ($32 on Amazon) and move it away from the heater. See pictures. The result is so much better!
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The reason I didnt do that is because my whole underside has the winter package from RVoA, meaning it is all insulation foam. The thermostat is in the wall, above the furnace. The furnace is under the bed. There is an access panel under the mattress so you can get to about 2/3rds of the furnace that way. The backside of the furnace is not accessible, as there is cabinetry built around it. you cannot get to it from the outside of the trailer either. I don't know exactly where the thermostat wire goes, and I'm not home so I can't look at it either atm. Sorry.I have some questions about your thermostat project. Where exactly is the propane furnace and can you get to it from the inside or outside of the trailer? If you can get to the furnace you could disconnect the existing thermostat wire and make a new wire that could be routed through the floor and up into the battery compartment.
No problem, happy to hear others find it useful!I also like your table project. Besides the small refrigerator we also didn’t like how cramped the table makes you legs and feet. I was trying to figure out how to change the table and you have already given me the solution. Thanks for the good ideas!
Awesome job on the cooler setup @HQ15fan ! What did you use to mount/tie it down to keep it solid? Also is the cooler model maybe a typo? Could not find the "CCF35" only the "CF35" or "CFF35"? There is a "CC" line as well lol. Based on your pics it looks like the CFF35 but want to make sure before I add this to my rig. Thanks!Ok, here's the mod if you want more fridge space. The Dometic CCF35 fits perfectly in the front compartment. You still have room left to store other stuff too. The power distribution box at the front of the trailer has an extra hole (bottom one in the picture) you can use to tie the power of the fridge into the power line for the 50A Anderson connector. If you additionally attach the negative wire for the fridge to the frame, the power meter inside the trailer will show you the fridge power draw. Pretty neat. Make sure to put a fuse in the positive line.
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You are right, it was a typo. It is the CFF35 from Dometic. Fixed that in the orginal post. Thanks! If you look closely at the pictures, I used right angle brackets on the left side to prevent the fridge from bouncing up, and on the right side I attached the same brackets to the floor to keep it from sliding. Additionally, I used some nylon rope and tied the right side down. You can take the handles off the fridge, and that gives you two anchor points. I'm sure there are other ways to secure it, but so far this has worked perfectly fine. It survived the moab adventureAwesome job on the cooler setup @HQ15fan ! What did you use to mount/tie it down to keep it solid? Also is the cooler model maybe a typo? Could not find the "CCF35" only the "CF35" or "CFF35"? There is a "CC" line as well lol. Based on your pics it looks like the CFF35 but want to make sure before I add this to my rig. Thanks!
That is a super cool video! Well done! You didn't get stuck in that nasty looking black mud? Very impressive.I hope you guys enjoy this video. I will be sharing our mod to Black Series Caravans. Also we are authorized dealer in Mongolia
Thank you!That is a super cool video! Well done! You didn't get stuck in that nasty looking black mud? Very impressive.
Where was this filmed?
Really nice. The video looks a lot like the landscape you can find here in Colorado, with the pine trees. I looked on Google briefly, didn't see many roads or trails go through there?Thank you!
It was filmed in Bogd Mountain National Park, Tuv Province, Mongolia.
I showed some pictures earlier in this thread, here: https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/black-series-hq-tips-tricks-and-learning.203716/post-2648302I have a question from you. Would you mind sharing that how to fit cf35 dometic fridge into HQ12 and electric wiring etc. Any tutorial?
Can this also discharge your starter battery?Ok, next super simple mod. By default your tow vehicle will not charge your Black Series trailer batteries, as the 12V line that would do that is disconnected. But that is really simple to fix. Just open the power distribution box next to the handbrake, and you'll see a spare black wire, with (hopefully!) black insulated rubber at the end. That wire goes to the 12V pin on the 7 pin trailer connector (see picture with red arrow). So all you need to do is to connect that black wire to the 12V red wire in the distribution box, and you're done! For me that was made even simpler, as it turns out that that black wire already has a connector attached. Just had to cut off the insulation, and connect it. See the pictures. This is way easier than figuring out how to connect the grey Anderson connector to your tow vehicle.
Now, whenever you plug in your trailer to your tow vehicle, it should charge your batteries while towing.
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