With that argument, you should never lift any modern truck, because it wasn't "designed to be that way."
I don't think I ever said "shouldn't". I wanted to make it clear that there is no fooling yourself that is it "just as safe". All my Land Rovers are lifted but there's a difference in lifting a solid axle vs independent suspension vehicle. For example, the vehicle track is narrower on a 2.5" lifted LR3 unless countering with spacers or wider offset wheels. It all ads up. But the big difference between lifting my D2 a couple inches and the LR3 is the D2 got different springs and dampers engineered for that movement. The LR3 does not. My D2 still retains all of it's suspension articulation and more natural dynamics. The LR3 gets butchered and handles as such no matter how a person tells themselves it feels "cool".With that argument, you should never lift any modern truck, because it wasn't "designed to be that way."
Well ****, then I'd never get "there" !2.5" isn't a big deal, especially if one dials back the speed/cornering and understands his LR3/4 really shouldnt' be going 80mph on the interstate with ARB bumpers, 32" tires, and a loaded roof rack...
I can agree with this. I think if I had a LR3 or a newer air suspended Rover I'd run the new spacers, Gap tool, and trim the inner fenders for bigger tires.Running all the time lifted negates the benefits of having an air suspension in the first place. Might as well do the spring swap.
I just installed LR4 stormers on mine with Nitto Terra Grappler G2's with the size 285/55/r20 and it was pretty difficult. I had to spend over 300$ to get the wheel wells trimmed, which involved hacking an inch into the frame and now the air conditioning line is exposed and could be rubbed up against if I turned the wheel full lock going slow. My question is how did you get yours to fit your LR3 XRAY? And does anyone have any suggestions on some type of liner to bolt on to the exposed wheel well now that it is hacked up?Here's my take on the tires, height and safety. Running 285x55x20 TA KO's.
I run a rod mod. The mod increases the air in the strut which stiffens the ride slightly which I feel compensates for the 2 1/2 inch lift. As stated I run 20's which are E rated which both make for less sidewall roll which also compensates for the 2 1/2 inch lift. Is there a reduction in safety? I'm anal, I took that into consideration that's why I run the combination I do. A reduction in safety? I don't think you could calculate it. You still have tire tread and compound, road surface, weather, speed, and mental drivers. I think any weight on your roof in a rack, without stiffing the suspension or larger sway bars is a reduction in ride safety. But Land Rover put a rack on top considering people are in general smart enough to change their driving habits after making the first turn. My LR is a heavy pig, so it’s hard to speedway race. But, I bet it will fare extremely well by design in a rollover. But I love it. Comfortable to drive for hours on the road and I can still enjoy a couple of hours of good technical offroading when I arrive. Sorry, bigger tires, sitting up higher all the time, I like the look, and I like personalizing the look of my ride (again my take on it). I have close to 40000 mile on a lifted and aligned (lifted) LR3. I've been watching my drive train components for years to write a thread on all the wear with the lift compared to a stock LR guy I know. Do I have to wait for 300,000 miles to see that wear? I think mine looks better for wear underneath right now and I probably wouldn't care in 300,000. Oh yes, I do carry a computer to hack the suspension. I also have my own emergency bump stops for the front so I can steer if the suspension should do the dreaded fail thing. Never seen it or know anyone to have it. But, I have had compressor failure via getting old, which after a hack reset; it coughed and sputtered enough to air back up for the 5 hour drive home. Once you hear it not pumping smoothly don't lower it down for the wife to get out, and surly don't test it, that’s what you will want to do. Wait until you're home because it might not want to go back up. I have also had line failure. I know you can find that branch; it’s the one with sonar for plastic lines. Take repair parts. I have only read about the dreaded failure happening to two people. As for tire size and rubbing NWoods web page, Johnson Rods page. My take on it, choose what look you want. I think we worry too much about making changes, especially 2 ½ inches. Drive that beast and enjoy.
I have read your comments on lifts in this thread with interest, JWestPro. As mentioned earlier, I am trying to go for 275/55/20s (though I have gone with LR044848 rims; 20x8.5, +47mm). These rims seem to be a compromise between a slightly wider spread and a slightly wider rim.The factory liners work fine. There is just one place to patch where the rear buldge has to be cut out after moving the lines back there and flattening the body seam. Up front it's a simple slide and tuck away. If someone "hacked" things up, you're due a refund.
I can grab photos if you like to help you in right direction. In fact right now the liners are out for suspension access so I can show you body mods too.
Wheel spacers shouldn't be needed with a 275 tire on standard 20" wheel. Spacers actually reduce clearance under most circumstances for the front wheels and even the rear for deep articulation.
Use of tires under 34" don't require full time lift either. Doing that introduces a list of negative issues with almost zero improvement except solely for posing.
Hi shedlock,I have read your comments on lifts in this thread with interest, JWestPro... ....I am also going to invest in a GAP Tool -- was your GAP Tool suspension calibration and lift complicated?