Best way to adapt truck for carrying heavy loads?

kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
Dfout, just add a block in the rear, then you have the lift you want but rake you need!. Airbags are great. I love mine. I think you will be happy with adding a block and a set of airbags in the rear for the heavy heavy stuff. airlift 1000 series should not be that expensive, mine were only 120 buck cdn.
 
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Deleted member 9101

Guest
true, but this is just chasing one patch with another. Get to the root of the issue. Is it actually worn / failing, or is he packing too much crap for the load capacity of his vehicle. Or just too much crap in general.

False, the 1st gen tundras would "sag" when new while only having 1/3rd of the rated capacity in the bed. They simply have a really soft rear suspension.
 

comptiger5000

Adventurer
False, the 1st gen tundras would "sag" when new while only having 1/3rd of the rated capacity in the bed. They simply have a really soft rear suspension.

90s Toyota pickups in general were bad for this. I've seen a mid-90s Tacoma with the rear end sitting on the bumpstops (looked to be sagged about 6" from empty ride height) with about 1000 lbs in the bed. A little searching says the payload rating for that truck should have been in the 1500 - 1600 lb range... And this is a rarely driven, low mileage truck with springs that are in perfectly good shape. They're just really soft.
 
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Deleted member 9101

Guest
90s Toyota pickups in general were bad for this. I've seen a mid-90s Tacoma with the rear end sitting on the bumpstops (looked to be sagged about 6" from empty ride height) with about 1000 lbs in the bed. A little searching says the payload rating for that truck should have been in the 1500 - 1600 lb range... And this is a rarely driven, low mileage truck with springs that are in perfectly good shape. They're just really soft.

Mine is the same way, although not to that extent. But, it rides almost like a car when it's unloaded, so I don't mind it. When I get another camper or boat, I'll get another set of air bags and call it a day.
 
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Deleted member 9101

Guest
Honestly the whole reason I leveled it in the first place was just for the look of it (i know i know). Every one in my hometown had jacked up diesel trucks, and having the only Toyota i figured I had to do something to it (stupid). Haha believe me, if I could go back to high school and and ********** my self for doing that I would do it in a heart beat.

I am trying to build it up as a capable, extended camping/road trip vehicle, and I have a whole slew of stuff that I would LIKE to do. The main reason for posting this wasn't so much that I felt that my truck was going to fall apart due to suspension issues in the next week, more to get a feel of what I should be doing to sure right off the bat. Like I said, I'm a newbie at all this, and I'd rather not have to redo stuff because I did the wrong thing on down the road.


Annnny way, I crawled up under my truck today to take a look at the springs. No "W" shape yet. I think this is what I am going to do, after looking back at what yall have been saying:
Take the leveling kit out, and get a proper suspension lift, 2.5 up front (level), and 1.5 in the back to restore the when unloaded rake.
ill try for some Bilstein 5100s with OME or similar coil springs for the front, and A wheeler's multi leaf add a leaf set or similar, with some Bilstein shocks thrown in the back as well (my shocks need to be replaced anyway.)
2 reasons why I'm not going with air bags AT THE MOMENT.
1. most of the stuff that I go camping with stays in my truck all the time (which is not a **** ton of stuff, really)
2. $$$. Although not crazy expensive, helper springs are more in the budget for me.

I did the Blisteins on the middle notch and they work great. Even with the OEM springs it rides good and handles well. The front sits about 1/2" higher than the rear, so when I get around to it I'll add a small block to fix it.

Helper springs are cheap and they work, but mine rode much stiffer when I used them. You can also bust apart the spring pack and add another leaf for a few bucks.
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
In a sense, an add-a-leaf is sort of making a custom leaf pack, just using a stock one as a starting point.

Except it is generic. It is made to re-arch a spring but at what spring rate? It does not take into account the spring rate of the existing leaves or the spring rate needed to hold up the load. I know custom leaves are expensive but they are made specifically for your application.
 

comptiger5000

Adventurer
Except it is generic. It is made to re-arch a spring but at what spring rate? It does not take into account the spring rate of the existing leaves or the spring rate needed to hold up the load. I know custom leaves are expensive but they are made specifically for your application.

I wouldn't use it to "fix" a sagged or damaged leaf pack, but if you're wanting a stiffer one and yours are in good shape, but just too soft, the add-a-leaf can work fine. It may or may not get you to what you want/need, but if it does, it's a cheaper option than a whole new pack.
 
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Deleted member 9101

Guest
I wouldn't use it to "fix" a sagged or damaged leaf pack, but if you're wanting a stiffer one and yours are in good shape, but just too soft, the add-a-leaf can work fine. It may or may not get you to what you want/need, but if it does, it's a cheaper option than a whole new pack.

Worked like a charm on my Tundra and fixed the "Carolina Drag" that I had going on when I would tow.
 

andytruck

Observer
torklift.com has a wedge that fits between two of the leafs on the rear and should help hold the rear up a little. You need a hole to be in the leaf spring already or to drill one. The wedge thing is about $200, so not cheap, but probably economical fix.
I have a leveling kit on the font also from previous owner. I would not have put one on, but too much trouble to remove it.
 

4wdCamper

New member
I hear good things about Sumosprings. They are extended polyurethane bump stops. The nice thing about poyurethane is taht it acts as both a spring and a shock absorber.
While adding a steel leaf makes the spring pack stronger, it creates an imbalance and the shocks become unmatched to the springs (truck bounces back faster than the shocks can dampen), needing replacement.
Polyurethane extended bumpstops (sumosprings, timbren) increase both spring rate and dampening.
In mechanical terms their resisting force is a function of both travel (like a spring) and its first order derivate (speed, like a shock, so dampen).
 
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01tundra

Explorer
False, the 1st gen tundras would "sag" when new while only having 1/3rd of the rated capacity in the bed. They simply have a really soft rear suspension.

Exactly, all of the people saying the truck springs are worn or the truck is too light or he's packing too much weight - exactly how many 1st Gen Tundras have you owned? I can pick out everyone who is just talking to talk, the 1st Gen Tundra had a very soft (car-like) riding suspension. Don't add a block, this won't help the carrying capacity. If you're going to have some amount of weight always in the bed, I'd look at an add-a-leaf, or better yet, new spring packs for the rear. Deaver makes nice springs, but they are not great for carrying loads from my experience with them, Alcan springs will better accomodate hauling loads in the bed.
 
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grandpa

Member
I just installed the AirLift kit. After adding the fiberglass cap and a bed slider I wanted to restore the stock ride height. When loaded my headlights were too high. I have a trip coming up where I will need to haul about 700 lbs over 2400 miles. I don't have a full load very often so I wanted to have a comfortable ride when unloaded.

 

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