Berlin -> Western Sahara

Hobster

New member
Hi there...this is first post with some impressions of our Western Sahara Road Trip (Berlin -> Ad Dakhla) a couple of months ago.
I wanted to share those pictures with you to hopefully brighten up your day...and set you some new goals ;)

Around in the beginning of 2019 we were both fed up with our jobs: she intended to quit for a long time while I pushed myself trough a small/depressing bournout while being still "fully functional" teamlead trapped in an hypergrowth startup here in Berlin. Soooo...we talked a lot how to solve our situations. Or lives felt like a black hole. No light, no fun anymore. Just gray and cold. We dicussed back and forth and found out "taking a certain time out would feel like a big relief". So we finally quit our jobs. Both at the same time and took a sabbatical of 3-4 months - for the very first time in our lives leaving the 9to5 stuff behin! "Getting our minds cleared" was priority #1 and as we are both into kite surfing she joined my idea to go to the western sahara ("Ad Dakhla - the Wind City").


"By car."
"Uhhhh...ok!?"



I'll spare you the Europe-Part and start with "Leaving the customs / harbour area" in northern Africa.
I feared the customs-guys rip appart up our whole truck but nothing happend.
"You have drugs?" -no
"You have drones?" -no
"You have weapons?" -no
"Okay, have fun."



Tanger between 1-2pm...things getting exited:
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Still in Tanger, 4pm - western european, open-minded woman meets islamic world for the first time. Male Cafe's. Only men and no women on the streets.
White skin, jeans, no Nikab, no holding hands, men and women walking separated on the silde walk, MP with mashine guns, after hours searching for an "westernly cafe" to take a rest.
Folks didnt want to talk to us. Turned away, ignored us. Bam that hit.
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8pm some hundred kilometers further in Rabbat (Capital), still the day of arrival. We "rich" europeans received first bad gestures "to go away" by some beardy, angry looking men freshly leaving a mosque. Our car was stuck in a stream of thousand of people leaving after their prayers. I started to panick as some guys stood in front of our hood, blocked our path and seemingly did not agree that we are here (thanks Navi, which took us "the shortest route"). I locked the doors, engaged differentials and prepared to create a mess in order to save our lives (still stuck in that stream of ppl).

As our VW Amarok outvalued everything driving around in that traffic which can compared to "cache-fighting" as closest, we skipped sketchy / dark public parking places and only went for hotels in urban areas with guard. So this is our "Ice Wulf" (=Amarok) with 5k€+ equiptment in a neighborhood surrounded by partly huge poverty. Average GDP pC is 3k€ p.a. The first police checkpoint we hit ripped us off - "we crossed a red light". But up to the horizon there was no traffic light.
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2nd to 5th day. We left Agadir, the last big city, at 3am for a 1000kms+ trip south to our final destination.
We got ripped of at 4am at another check point - we crossed a stop sign. But, you guessed it....there wasnt any sign.
The police officer talked to me in french which I only understand.
My GF jumped in...but men in Morocco dont talk to woman. So the officer started to scream in the middle of night "Why I dont speak their language when I come and visit a foreign country?"
(GF translates to me. He got angrier.)

"You are germans, right?"
-yes
"You crossed a stop sign. This makes 1000 Dirham or you go to jail." (note: average income is like 300 Dirham a month).
-we dont have that money. we only have credit cards or debit cards.
He started laughing "Oooooh you are like the Senegales: they claim to be poor, too!"

After 45mins we gave him 300 Dirham..."without receipt".
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Another (not kidding) 50 checkpoints later.
Cliffs in the morning mist. The first dunes of the Western Sahara in our back...
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Hobster

New member
In the middle of nowhere...looking for an ATM to fuel up.
With all the extra fuel we had a range of 1300kms on asphalt, still struggled to find a gas station and then struggled to get some money.
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Different countries, different jobs. Just wait to get the dunes from the road...
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Every city/town/village has roundabouts with its own Arabic, Islamic or desert themed monuments:
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Hobster

New member
uuuuhhh okay!?
IMG_20190930_095609.jpg



A/C was working - 54C = 130F in a Church of Maryland
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Another day...we went off road through rocky/sandy pistes to kite surf some where.
While going through we found a french men with his Landrover.
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Some days later we shared another spot with locals
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Hobster

New member
We got it...the one rainy day that year!! :D
(zoom in for the stopping sign)
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Out in the lagoon north of Dakhla
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The City Monument of Dakhla
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It always feels heart-wharming when the UN is around
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uhmmmm...snow leopard?
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Marrakesh:
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Hobster

New member
We took around 5k of pictures. Altogether: from the first to the last day we had problems to get connected to the locals. It was easy to get in connection with local kite surfers but not to the rest of the population. My GF always asked me to go shopping because they accept males over females (feel uncomfortable speaking to women). We both felt us not welcome on "that one local market" which fed us for three weeks. We got ripped of a couple of times at different occassions. Even if you dont speak arab, gestures speak for themselfes when the cashier demands its money while laughing with another costumer who made a joke in our direction. We decided to head back to europe two weeks earlier then planned and spend more valuable time there.

And checkpoits...!! The way back I counted / we passed 130 checkpoints not knowing which games they start to play now. Most were friendly, some wanted to make swift money. Like the radar control in the middle of dessert.
 

Hobster

New member
Hi Christian, sorry & no. We went there pre-Covid19 .
We left northern Morocco in November 2019 and spent another month in Andorra, Pyrenaes back in Europe.

From my perspective it was a cultural thing:
- religion vs non-believers (even though we are friendly, open and very interested in cultural exchanges.)
- An archaic, highly conservative society* vs open-minded modern traveler
- Poor vs rich

But sure it was "reality vs expectations", too.
Morocco is known here as the most liberal islamic country with its king slowly opening the society more towards western standards.
So we were like "yeah, sounds easy. let's go there."


*We read a lot and saw a lot, spent 7 weeks in Morocco and Western Sahara and personally believe that the whole socitey is around 3-500 years development, given their current speed, behind europe.
- Women rights...500 years (complete surpression. I felt sorry for my GF the day we entered Morocco. On all city beaches we visited - not one woman was at the beach or nearby. Every street was covered with men because women belong in the kitchen, taking care of children. After 5 days my GF locked herself up in our appartment, cried tears because she was stuck in that journey and society. I did all the grocery shoppings and went out here and there but not without leaving her allone for more then two hours.)
- Education...maybe 2-300 years
- environmental protection...3-400 years (we saw Flamingos in a natural reserve area standing in oil while trash was illegally burned at the beach..."******". The whole country has not one single trash-sorting facility. Everything is burned outside the cities. We smelled burning smoke for the whole day of every day of our 7 week journey)
- health care, unemployed insurance...not existent
- surpression of righths and press by the king and his family
- etc.


Those who completely go off-road and live by themselfes within the dunes can have a nice time.
Those who spent some money for an exclusive, protected ressort which they never leave, too.

My GF and I were in between..we went from city to city working our way through, tried to live like a local on a daily basis.
 
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rydz

Member
I dont know,
perhaps your experiences were extreme,perhaps they were normal for there, I cant say.

I know I am looking forward to going to Africa (Morocco and Mauritania) once this pandemic passes,I had hoped to make my way there this year,but Africa will be there next year as well.
Everything I have been able to read and watch (youtube,documentaries ect) on Morocco looks amazing,

I dont think we can expect complete western methods when we are no longer in the west, some of the differences may be faith based or even cultural,but they cant be generalised.

All I have read about Morocco (specifically) is the cops dont ask for bribes, if you paid them, vs asking for, and receiving a ticket which you would pay and get a receipt for,then all you may have contributed to was making it harder for the next folks to pass through.

It is well written/known that Western Sahara (no longer the correct term BTW) has lots of check points, this for your safety and to establish legitimacy to the region, when stopped most only want a "fiche" with your details so they know who has passed and when, is it archaic ? yes. is it Africa? Yes.

I look forward to seeing things I would never see in Canada, a glimpse of the people and how they lived hundreds if not thousands of years ago,taste the local foods,meet the local people, will some simply want to try to scam me, perhaps.......... I go there willingly,and expecting some of that.Its up to me to be on my best behavior and aware that this is possible and likely.

We all know people who have been to (fill in the blank country) but have never ventured out of the holiday compound,yet return and tell of the marvelous time they had in (fill in the blank country),and staged pictures taken when in organised tours. Good for them, but I have no interest in that (and I speak from experience as one who did this type of trip for my 25th wedding anniversary and it put a strain on the trip, because all I wanted to do was get off the compound,yet my wife was very pleased with the status quo)

I wake up every day and think about when this pandemic will end, plan how I am going to get my little truck to Halifax to ship to the UK,which routes I will take from the UK to Spain to get to the ferry to Africa.

I want to admit that I am scared, but then I think,... I am not scared,but over anxious, a whole new continent! people who are completely different,who have lived a different life,grown up differently.This is them,its why i'm here.

I hope that when I can make my way to Africa,....that I will not want to leave,.....that I learn something new every day,..... that I meet someone new every day....that my presence in that country will have been a positive for those I have met,....and that I leave changed somehow, with more than just trinkets and pictures to show for it.

But then, we all travel for different reasons..........
 

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