TrailTrackers
Observer
Well, I finally decided to order a battery tray. Although I'm fairly certain that I could have fabricated my own, I just didn't feel like it in this case. I ordered the one from Benchmark and although it seems a bit pricey, it's an excellent build and very well thought out. I honestly just didn't feel like taking the time to duplicate this one.
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Phase one of the install is complete. I must say that it was extremely straight forward as Benchmark supplied a comprehensive step-by-step instruction set. As a matter of fact, I have never seen installation instructions as well done as these. They provided pictures and absolutely nothing was forgotten. The project took only a couple of hours to complete and there really isn’t much else to say, because like I said above, the instructions were so complete; well done Benchmark.
In fairness to other potential buyers of this kit, I think there are a few things I should say. I don’t remember ever seeing it mentioned on their web site, nor do I remember the guy from Benchmark saying anything about this while I was talking to him on the phone. Installing this kit entails cutting the front end off the OEM battery tray, essentially rendering it useless and making this a “one-way” install; there is no reverting back to the OEM configuration without having to purchase a new battery tray. That being said, it would not have made a difference to me because I was intent on installing a second battery and the engine compartment is where I wanted it located.
Additionally, concerning the DieHard Platinum battery, the only way I could get it to fit in the outside location was to grind the end of the bolt holding the TIPM bracket to the tray. I also had to clearance one side of the battery to get it to squeeze past the J-bolt that holds down the top plate. This was easily done with a grinder.
The last thing I’ll mention is that you’ll need to fabricate some sort of shim if you intend to keep using the OEM battery. I installed a type 34 DieHard Platinum from Sears that is maintenance free, while the OEM battery has filler caps on the top of it. This made the supplied hold down clamp sit on an angle over the top of the batteries. For me, it was easy to make my own: I had a scrap piece of 2x4 and used my power planer to knock it down to the correct thickness. However, not everybody has a power planer at hand and may find it more difficult to create a shim. It would be a nice touch if Benchmark provided a low cost shim that people could purchase if they needed.
The gray wire that you see hanging out the passenger side of the hood is actually a length of 10-2 that I fed down through that big rubber grommet in the firewall. I’ll be installing a fuse panel (exact same kind that I installed in my trailer) up under the dash, next to the heater blower; the new panel will be fed by the second battery.
Those two yellow wires with the inline fuses run across the firewall and down into the cab of the Jeep through the firewall on the driver’s side. I’ll be pulling those back into the cab of the Jeep and then running them under the dash and over to the newly installed fuse box on the passenger side. I’ll also run a length of 10-2 from the fuse box to the rear of the Jeep down the passenger side that will feed the ARB Fridge.
In its new configuration, only the OEM accessories will be supplied from the OEM battery. All other accessories that I have installed, and that I will install from this point forward will be supplied from the second battery. However, I will maintain my current accessory relays that I have installed because there are certain things that I only want powered when the engine is running.
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Phase one of the install is complete. I must say that it was extremely straight forward as Benchmark supplied a comprehensive step-by-step instruction set. As a matter of fact, I have never seen installation instructions as well done as these. They provided pictures and absolutely nothing was forgotten. The project took only a couple of hours to complete and there really isn’t much else to say, because like I said above, the instructions were so complete; well done Benchmark.
In fairness to other potential buyers of this kit, I think there are a few things I should say. I don’t remember ever seeing it mentioned on their web site, nor do I remember the guy from Benchmark saying anything about this while I was talking to him on the phone. Installing this kit entails cutting the front end off the OEM battery tray, essentially rendering it useless and making this a “one-way” install; there is no reverting back to the OEM configuration without having to purchase a new battery tray. That being said, it would not have made a difference to me because I was intent on installing a second battery and the engine compartment is where I wanted it located.
Additionally, concerning the DieHard Platinum battery, the only way I could get it to fit in the outside location was to grind the end of the bolt holding the TIPM bracket to the tray. I also had to clearance one side of the battery to get it to squeeze past the J-bolt that holds down the top plate. This was easily done with a grinder.
The last thing I’ll mention is that you’ll need to fabricate some sort of shim if you intend to keep using the OEM battery. I installed a type 34 DieHard Platinum from Sears that is maintenance free, while the OEM battery has filler caps on the top of it. This made the supplied hold down clamp sit on an angle over the top of the batteries. For me, it was easy to make my own: I had a scrap piece of 2x4 and used my power planer to knock it down to the correct thickness. However, not everybody has a power planer at hand and may find it more difficult to create a shim. It would be a nice touch if Benchmark provided a low cost shim that people could purchase if they needed.
The gray wire that you see hanging out the passenger side of the hood is actually a length of 10-2 that I fed down through that big rubber grommet in the firewall. I’ll be installing a fuse panel (exact same kind that I installed in my trailer) up under the dash, next to the heater blower; the new panel will be fed by the second battery.
Those two yellow wires with the inline fuses run across the firewall and down into the cab of the Jeep through the firewall on the driver’s side. I’ll be pulling those back into the cab of the Jeep and then running them under the dash and over to the newly installed fuse box on the passenger side. I’ll also run a length of 10-2 from the fuse box to the rear of the Jeep down the passenger side that will feed the ARB Fridge.
In its new configuration, only the OEM accessories will be supplied from the OEM battery. All other accessories that I have installed, and that I will install from this point forward will be supplied from the second battery. However, I will maintain my current accessory relays that I have installed because there are certain things that I only want powered when the engine is running.
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