Battleship Jones: 2015 Tacoma DCLB Build Thread

[Adventurous]

Could you link me to the post detailing the new brakes? That's one area that I think my Taco really lacks, curious to see what you did.

// edit - found it: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...acoma-DCLB-Build-Thread?p=2210456#post2210456

I think the EBC yellowstuff pads + sport rotors + stainless lines are about as good as it gets for a Tacoma without swapping out brake components. StopTech offers a big brake kit (http://www.stoptech.com/products/big-brake-kits) but if I recall correctly its somewhere in the neighborhood of $2K and requires the use of 17" wheels. No thanks.

 

[duvinclunk]

I love the increased bite and stopping power. I can positively say that they saved me from rear ending someone on the highway when traffic panic stopped (of course I got rear ended, hence the Bruteforce rear bumper). Can't comment on life at the moment as I only have ~10K on the pads, but even if I only got 25K out of them I will happily fork out the cash again. IMO you can never have too much braking power; I'll be swapping in stainless lines next to eek out a bit more performance.

How's the dust?

 

[Adventurous]

How's the dust?

Let's just say it's a good thing I have grey wheels.

 

[Adventurous]

Thanks for the info.

I did see the big brake kits before, and much like you, balked at the $2k+ price. Not worth it. If anything, that much piston power may lock up my all-terrain KO2s and result in worse stopping.

I'll likely get a set of the same pads and rotors when my OEM stuff starts showing signs of being worn. Still only 30k km on the odometer.

My stockers were toast at 25K miles. There was still plenty of life left in the pads, the rotors had just taken on a nice shimmy coming down mountain passes on the highway. I probably could have milked them for a while longer if I needed to.

 

[Adventurous]

Those who have ARB Dakar leaf packs are more than likely familiar with all of their squeaks and clunks and various other noises. Indications in paint on the leaf springs indicate that this is primarily a function of them shifting from side to side. This was unacceptable to me and I set out to find a solution. That solution, isolator pads.

Now I'll admit that this was one of the worst jobs I have had to do my truck thus far. Pulling the leaf packs, disassembling them, drilling 12 7/16" holes in spring steel then painting, reassembling, and re-installing all within the span of a weekend meant I had to get stuff done and get it done quickly.

Materials Used:
Leaf spring isolators - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leaf-Spring...ash=item2a5b249257:g:m~gAAOSwM4xXbWNV&vxp=mtr
Wheeler's replacement u-bolts - https://wheelersoffroad.com/product...heelers-leaf-spring-u-bolts-u-bolt-flip-kits/
Replacement OME poly bushing - https://wheelersoffroad.com/product...hing-set-for-old-man-emu-cs047r-leaf-springs/

Now I have no pictures documenting the process mainly because it was pure misery. I started off trying to drill the holes in a drill press which didn't work so well as mine only goes down to 300 rpm which was just too fast. I ended up drilling all 12 with my corded Milwaukee hand drill making sure to use plenty of oil and spinning these things almost as slowly as I could manage. The key was to start with a really small bit, something on the order of 3/32" and gently step up from there. Be sure you either have plenty of bits on hand or a Drill Doctor as they will get dull and they will explode on you. That said, once you have your 12 holes you can press the isolator pads in, they won't want to seat fully but once the weight of the truck is on them it'll finish the job so close enough is good enough. My leaf pack is currently an 8 leaf pack, 2 overload + 5 standard + 1 add a leaf. The bottom two standard leafs come with isolators already so I was simply adding them to the other 2 standard plus the 1 add a leaf.

While the leaf pack was apart I also decided to replace the front eyelet bushing with a poly bushing. I've always hated the one that comes in the front of the Dakar and was convinced it would shift laterally on me. No more! Again, the install was pretty straightforward so long as you can use a hammer. While putting everything back together I did add the second overload leaf that I had taken out before back in while retaining the add a leaf. This was all done in anticipation of the camper tongue weight.

Everything got a fresh coat of rusty metal primer then gloss black enamel before reassembly, then they were installed back on the truck. Finished picture of one of the spring ends:

IMG_2530 by Tim Souza, on Flickr

Now that I've had them on for a few months I can happily report that the Dakars are for the most part squeak free! There's still a little something but its certainly a small fraction of the cacophony that was the rear end of my truck before. Is it worth it? Only you can decide, the squeaks don't bother some people but for me it did. There was also a perceptible change in suspension dynamics post isolator installation. There seemed to be less force required to overcome the stiction and small bump compliance increased as well as the overall suspension action feeling smoother. Could be making that up to justify doing the work in the first place, but I'm happy I did it and I guess that's what matters.

 

[calicamper]

6x10 gives you more options regarding bed space vs wall space for other rvish items. How tall are you guys? Would the across vs lengthwise bed work? That also upps the build layout options.

Your 19footer looks like it has a tall roof line that along with the weight were really working against you. The smaller box and narrower foot print should make a big difference in the tow dept. Even if your up around 2700lbs it should be a whole different towing experience.

Sounds like you have a good plan. My dog spends the night in the Truck or car depending on which one we take. He does much better in his crate given he goes off duty. LOL

 

[Adventurous]

FYI, Dakars recently, quietly received an update, and all new packs are supposed to be completely squeak-free from the factory.

6x10 gives you more options regarding bed space vs wall space for other rvish items. How tall are you guys? Would the across vs lengthwise bed work? That also upps the build layout options.

Your 19footer looks like it has a tall roof line that along with the weight were really working against you. The smaller box and narrower foot print should make a big difference in the tow dept. Even if your up around 2700lbs it should be a whole different towing experience.

Sounds like you have a good plan. My dog spends the night in the Truck or car depending on which one we take. He does much better in his crate given he goes off duty. LOL

I'm 5'7" and the wife is 5'5" so a 6' interior height should work out nicely, especially since there should be no pesky AC protruding down. Right now our layout has a queen bed, a kitchen cabinet with sink and space for a camp stove, a small bench for a cassette toilet, a propane fridge and some other cabinets for storage. It shall be rudimentary but pleasant, just the way I like it. Advertised weight on a 6x10 is in the range of 1,100 lbs and I'm thinking we should be able to add whatever we want and still be under 2K. And you are right, given the lighter weight and reduced aero profile it should be a pretty primo setup. As for the ole pups, the two biguns sleep in the cab at night and the little one sleeps in the bed with us. We've taken to putting reflectix cutouts in all of the windows otherwise the dogs are up at 430 am and bother us. They are lucky they are cute.

 

[Adventurous]

Small update, I finally found an acceptable way to carry my Escaper Buddy traction mats around. Maxtrax come with a fancy harness thinger that loops over the spare tire and has ratchets and hooks and stuff. I took the easy way out and fed some 4' NRS straps through the holes in the spare tire rim then through the handles on the traction boards. Snugged them down good and tight, they aren't going anywhere. I like it!

IMG_2541 by Tim Souza, on Flickr

Also installed a dual jerry can holder on the driver's side swing out. I'll use it to carry the water jugs and maybe fuel. It will be nice to get those out of the cab or bed so I don't have to worry about all of the jostling emptying the water jug all over our stuff.

 

[Adventurous]

Every time I drive with the windows down I hear the jingle jangle from the zippers on the awning like a pair of automotive wind chimes. I very much value peace and quiet, noises mean something is wrong. So I went to Home Depot and grabbed a can of Plastidip for tool handles and dipped the pulls. Much better now.

IMG_2545 by Tim Souza, on Flickr

 

[Adventurous]

It would appear that I will have to make a decision here on my tire dilemma soon. I'm almost sure I'm going AT, either Duratrac, KO2, or AT2, I'm not sure I can go wrong with either of those 3.

The decision is size. I'm on the schedule to get the hail damage repaired at the end of this year and the option is on the table to make the necessary fender mods (whether it be trimming or glass) to run 35s. I'm already planning on re-gearing to get some pep back while towing, so that's not a factor in the decision. Now, do I need 35s? Probably not. Would they increase capability and comfort? Probably. Do the pros outweigh the cons? No idea.

So I shall solicit you knowledgeable folks who have been there done that, what would you do?

 

[Adventurous]

I haven't "done" it, but I wouldn't go with 35s. Too heavy for this truck, even with a regear, and require way too much modifications to fit them.

What I would suggest is looking into the tall & skinny 34x10.5 BFG KO2 (that's the actual size that's listed on BGF's site, and all tire vendors). My understanding is that with a moderate lift (2-3"), these will fit without rubbing with very minor mods (removing tire flaps, some heat gun work on the inner wheel-arch liners).

I run a load C KO2 right now (265/70/17) and really love these tires, but will go with the 34x10.5 once my current set wears out.

I thought about that but unfortunately it would require a) new rims (currently on 16s) and b) shelling out $327 per tire :snorkel:

I suppose a 295/75R16 is closer, just an inch wider.

 

[Scott B.]

I'm running 285/75-16 KO2s, and am very happy with them.

Personally, I would not go to 35s - too much tire, too many modifications to the truck, and long-term, things will wear out faster. Of course, my 4-wheelin objectives have changed over the years, as I have "matured"...

Are you going to bring your trailer with you on the trail, or leave it in camp? We take our teardrop - I don't think I would tow a trailer on any trail that really needed 35s.

Think carefully about your objectives - then the decision will be obvious.

My $0.02. YMMV

 

[Adventurous]

I'm running 285/75-16 KO2s, and am very happy with them.

Personally, I would not go to 35s - too much tire, too many modifications to the truck, and long-term, things will wear out faster. Of course, my 4-wheelin objectives have changed over the years, as I have "matured"...

Are you going to bring your trailer with you on the trail, or leave it in camp? We take our teardrop - I don't think I would tow a trailer on any trail that really needed 35s.

Think carefully about your objectives - then the decision will be obvious.

My $0.02. YMMV

All good things to consider, thank you Scott. I also have to thank you for the reminder to look at your build thread and I pulled a few relevant nuggets out of there that I will be using here shortly (mainly the transmission cooler tidbit, I need a bigger/better one).

The trailer will most likely stay in camp, though the goal is to have it all capable enough to get to the good camping spots away from most people. That's not to say that I'll go wheeling with it, but I'd like for it to handle most easy rated trails.

 

[calicamper]

I'm running 285/75-16 KO2s, and am very happy with them.

Personally, I would not go to 35s - too much tire, too many modifications to the truck, and long-term, things will wear out faster. Of course, my 4-wheelin objectives have changed over the years, as I have "matured"...

Are you going to bring your trailer with you on the trail, or leave it in camp? We take our teardrop - I don't think I would tow a trailer on any trail that really needed 35s.

Think carefully about your objectives - then the decision will be obvious.

My $0.02. YMMV

I ran the 285's on my stock 93 LC its a nice size. I would imagine they would fit the Taco with no mods

 

[Scott B.]

I ran the 285's on my stock 93 LC its a nice size. I would imagine they would fit the Taco with no mods

I am running a 3" mid-travel lift, and Camburg UCAs - tires fit, no problem.