Also note that in the big battery pack they had a 50% battery failure rate.
Maybe I missed it, but how did they get 15A into a 50Ah battery bank that was at >80% SOC?
Yea...not really. Lead-acid batteries are chemistry experiments in a plastic box - not precise electronic components. Pretty much what works on one will work on another.
There are a few outliers, such as the Odyssey TPPL Starved Electrolyte design. Since I happen to have the Odyssey Tech Manual open at the moment, let's see what it says...
"The message to be taken from this graph is clear – in deep cycling applications it is important to have the charge voltage set at 14.4 – 15.0V. A nominal setting of 14.7V is a good choice, as shown by
Those are both very unusual. Most AGMs specify 14.6v-14.8v and most FLA spec 14.4v-14.6v. What brand/model are those batteries?Currenty I run a 400Ah AGM bank and a 950FLA bank. Manufacures bulk rate specs are 15.0V AGM and 14.2V FLA.
Uh...make sure the plates are utilized...that's a new one on me. Again, what batteries are they?I asked about running less into the AGM but the plates are thicker so the manufacure wants to make sure the plates are utilized.
Less sulphation, shorter charge times. And probably more complete absorption.At 14.2 the FLA need water every 3 months. At 14.7V there would be more gassing and I'd spend more time adding water for what gain?
Yea, that's pretty normal. Trojan AGMs spec +.028v for every 10F below 77F, so across a 38F spread that would be a little over a tenth of a volt.Both banks have temp compensating chargers. The AGM are 0.13V differential from 70F to 32F. To me that is precise.
Found out about too-high pulses before frying anything. While using a cheap PWM charge controller with a constant 15v manually programmed charge rate with me in charge of the timed equalization, an 80 watt DC-AC inverter stopped working. Replaced blown fuse. Blew again. I finally realized it was the spikes from the solar charge controller.I was doing some reading on desulfating. To do it in a reasonable time frame (days instead of months) you need current pulses over 2C. These pulses can be really short, but the high current is much more effective than thousands of small low current pulses. This obviously can't be done with any equipment hooked up, as the voltage spikes would nuke sensitive electronics.
The reason you can't just desulfate in an couple hours is that this type of charge current would cause rapid gassing, heating, and battery explosions if not pulsed.
My thought is that the pulse circuits that run constantly may be trying to reduce sulfation rather than reversing it.I've read about, but never bought into the desulphators that simply use the battery it's connected to for the process. I do now have some faith in a solar panel and PWM controller as good battery maintainers that cause me less electrolyte loss worries.