Basic Dual Battery Setup to run Fridge/Freezer questions (sorry in advance if these are dumb)

[WSS]

I did not read through all the posts, but did read the OP's questions.

I went with a Hellroaring combiner to handle the dual battery situation. It is all solid state and no loss. It will pass whatever voltage your alt will give. I went with Odyssey AGM's. One on each side of the fenders due to space constraints.

 

[chmura]

The diode bump trick works fine. BUT you must confirm your systems voltage before you do something like that. In my case I have a switch to bypass the boost diode when needed. There are numerous diodes available, so you can pick the desired boost (from 0.25 to 1V is doable). On my van I went from 13.8 to 14.3V, and it made a big difference in charging my lead bank,

I would rather use a DC to DC charger like the Redarc that will 100% fully charge a AGM battery. I am thinking of isolating my starter battery and leaving it alone. Adding a AGM battery on the passenger side of the engine bay in my Tacoma with a DC to DC charger for the battery. The Redarc has solar input also if I want to add solar in the future.

Only issue I have is I believe is the size batter that can fit in the passenger side is a Group 35. I think thats a bit small just to run a ARB fridge for 48 hours max?

 

[Buddha.]

Maybe OP could fit a bigger battery in the stock location like this.

07-13 Chevy NNBS battery upgrade, H6 to H8.

I couldn't find any info online about upgrading the battery so, this is what I came up with. With the NNBS(07-13?) trucks no matter what gas engine you have, 4.3 to 6.2 your battery choices are either a 615CCA or 730CCA H6(group 48). My truck came with a one year old 615CCA battery that...

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