AWOL Around Australia...

Saint Nick

Active member
Ever feel like your the odd one out?

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#vanlyfe

Just can't get away from 'white van man' :rolleyes:

As usual, another great write up and photos, and that car museum looks awesome.

Thanks for reading the food blog! ha!

I'm glad to see you've admitted that the trips are really all about the food :ROFLMAO:

Nick.
 

Rufant

Well-known member
I believe the nuts are on the right way - As my Dad had a Series 2 Land Rover and the wheel nuts were double chamfered as in both sides of the nuts and you could fit them either way.
Anyway very good report. I'm loving the photos,

Dan.

Ah right, that would make sense. I stand corrected!
 

Rufant

Well-known member
Just can't get away from 'white van man' :rolleyes:

As usual, another great write up and photos, and that car museum looks awesome.



I'm glad to see you've admitted that the trips are really all about the food :ROFLMAO:

Nick.

Ha ha. They don't use that expression over here funnily enough, but yeah that was white van central.
 

Rufant

Well-known member
The Sapphire Coast.

New South Wales, Australia.

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Although the next morning was clearer, and gave us some indication of the pace of life on a Monday on the Sapphire Coast.

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Monday morning rush hour.

We followed the coast road down to Eden. I had wanted to come here ever since reading ‘Killers of Eden’ years ago, back in the UK.

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This book tells the tale of the unique symbiotic relationship that used to exist between the killer whales and long boat whalers of Eden about a century ago. The killer whales would heard other whales into Two Fold Bay (a deep natural harbour) and then alert the whalers on the shore. The whalers would then mount their long boats and finish the whale off. Leaving the carcass for the killer whales to take the lips and tongue, then the could retrieve the remains of the carcass for the valuable blubber and whale bone.

In Eden there is an excellent museum with lots of information about these times, and other general history of the area. Included is the skeleton of ‘Old Tom’ the ringleader of the killer whales. Once he died the killer whales never came back and whaling ceased on this part of the coast.

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We found this riverside campsite not far outside the town. Again the weather was predicting storms, so we got the tent set in case they did eventuate. Then I cooked up some of the fresh seafood we had got from the markets on our way out on Canberra.

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Spanish style seafood stew, with sherry, tomato, paprika, fennel and dill. There are so many versions of these simple stews around the world, all simple to make and delicious.

Plenty of life in this river. You could regularly see fish jumping high out of the water, probably escaping Mr bigger fish. Thousands of tiny mud crabs, and oysters all along the waters edge. I shucked one out of its shell to see how they tasted - about as good as an oyster can. However this area had been heavily harvested by previous campers, no surprise this close to a town. So I leave it at just the one sample.

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That was one tasty morsel.


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You can see the oyster shells all over the rocks, but most of these had been harvested.

The storm never eventuated, however a couple more campers rolled in to fill the spots further down the riverbank, one in a van. The way we had come in had required low range and diffs locked through a steep tributary crossing. So there must be another, longer way in on forest roads.

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Rufant

Well-known member
Next morning we were packed and gone without seeing anyone else. First stop was Boydtown. Named by Benjamin Boyd, a Scot who made and lost a fortune in Australia. So Boydtown never became a town, however it does contain the fantastic looking Seahorse Inn, a colonial gothic extravagance if ever there was one.

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We were their early in the morning, but it didn't appear anyone was staying. Except maybe the chooks.

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From Wikipedia:

Boyd became one of the largest landholders and graziers of the Colony of New South Wales; before suffering financial difficulties and becoming bankrupt. Boyd briefly tried his luck on the Californian goldfields before being purportedly murdered on Guadalcanal in the Solomon Islands.[2] Many of his business ventures involved blackbirding, the practise of coercing and kidnapping South Sea Islanders as slave labourers.[3]


So despite showing the unpleasant characteristics that occur all too often in the 'successful', Boyd is certainly well remembered, if not remembered well around here. We head into Boyd National Park. First stop at the north end of the park is Boyd Tower, originally built to be a lighthouse, which the government wouldn't allow. It made a fine, if very expensive, whale spotting tower.

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Nature is slowly reclaiming the tower.

We spend the rest of that morning exploring down the coast, south through this park.

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Crystal clear waters these days at the historic whale processing site.

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Oysters in abundance here too. However we were now in a national park, so I just put this one back, rather than in my stomach.

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Historic whale blubber boiling apparatus, imagine the smell!


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The actual lighthouse at Green Cape.

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Probably one of the most enjoyable National Park’s I have been to. Bite size, and a good mixture of natural beauty and colonial history.

We try our luck at Wonboyn Lake, home to Australia’s ‘best’ Oysters. However we can’t find anyone selling them, maybe they are out of season or maybe the wholesale demand is just too high at this time of year. Think of all those work Christmas parties going on. So a tailgate lunch tops us up and we hit the bitumen to cross the border into Victoria and take up our next campsite a little further down the coast.

Mallacoota is a small seaside tourist town in East Gippsland. Regular population of around a thousand people, which makes you wonder why it has two supermarkets and multiple cafes. A calm inlet lake and a community owned foreshore caravan park with around 700 sites, plus three other parks in town means it swells to around 10,000 people here in the busy holiday times. Fortunately for us, this wasn’t one of them and we needed somewhere to hunker down whilst the bad weather that had been threatening for the last few days hit.
 
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Saint Nick

Active member
Thanks for the culinary updates (y) Oh, I almost forgot, great pics and write up! Great coastline with reminders of days gone by.

Nick
 

Rufant

Well-known member
Grumpy East Gippsland.

Victoria, Australia.

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We pitched the tent up in ‘storm stetting’. We’ve been through some bad weather in this tent over the years and it pays to get it as well set up as you can whilst the going is good.

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So, every guy rope is utilised, everything that can be pegged down is. We fully enclose the awning to give us a room to sit it. This also means the front panel takes the worst of the wind, meaning where you sleep is a bit more sheltered. I used spare guy ropes I had brought for this trip to double guy rope the front poles to stop that front panel being blown in too much, the front poles may have had a slight bow in them with all the different ways they were being tensioned... nothing snapped, so I would rig it like this again.

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The lake, angry...

I would have loved a calm day to hire a kayak and explored the lake but it wasn’t so. We did some stuff as we were camped for once with an internet connection, so emails home and I got some journal reports, like the one you’re reading now, done. I cooked up the rest of the seafood, I just dunked it in spiced flour and fried it up.

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Hard to beat fried fish really. Served with a curry sauce and chapatis - a simple flour/salt/water dough, flattened out and almost dry fried in very little oil/butter - a friend of mine’s Mum had told me over the phone how to make these years ago, and we still use them as a tasty accompaniment to Indian food today.

...

The second day I took a walk down the coast. Hiking the last section of the Coastal Wilderness Trail, from where we were camped at Mallacoota to Shipwreck Creek in Croajingolong National Park. Taking the clifftop path on the way there, and then round the beach headland on the way back. Around 27km all up if the signs are to be believed (my phone was low on charge at this point, due to the ******** weather there was limited recharging from the solar, so I didn’t ‘follow’ myself with GPS. Saving the battery for photos) which was enough for an old git a bit out of practice at these things. Anyway, it was a good walk, and probably what I needed after the somewhat overpopulated areas we had been travelling through the last few weeks (it should be noted that I was keen to check out the east coast, we had never been to very much of it, and felt like we should at least see what it was like. No doubt it has a ‘big town’ aspect to it that a lot of the rest of the country doesn’t have, but it’s not what living in Australia is about for me).

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Termites eat the tree, birds eat the termites.


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I only took my phone for photos, so I got wet feet just after this shot was taken!


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Despite the gloomy skies, the landscapes were still cool.


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I got pretty soaked on the way back. What can you do..? Thumbs up selfie!


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On arriving at Shipwreck Creek, my turn around point, I was somewhat disappointed to find the beach covered in foot prints. I thought it was more remote than that. Only once I got down to the beach I realised they were in fact emu tracks.


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The wildflowers were a nice burst of colour on what was a pretty monochrome day.


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Rufant

Well-known member
That night we had dinner at ‘Lucy’s’, an authentic little Chinese restaurant in town. Chatting to Lucy about how she went from running big restaurants in China to moving here an opening this place 16 years ago. Without a chef to start with she just stuck to the dishes she knew she could make. She bemoaned how hard it is to get and keep good chefs, blaming the location - I assured her it was a problem wherever you are (I used to deal with a lot of chefs through work, like many ‘hands on‘ professions, it just seems not enough people want to do it these days) but I’m not sure she believed me. So we enjoyed some simple home cooked Chinese food, not something you expect in a little town like this.

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Local abalone and pork noodles. Asian's seem to love abalone, I find it a bit overrated to be honest.


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The kitchen at Lucy's, and Lucy!
 

Rufant

Well-known member
It rained hard again on our last night, however we awoke to mostly clear and sunny skies.


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So calm!


We took our time packing up. This full deployment of all the OzTent options takes more time anyway, but I was keen to get it all dried out before it went away again.


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Let's go!


The sun did its work and we were back on the road. I took N and Rollo to a couple of dog friendly spots I had encountered on the hike yesterday. Then we tried driving out through the forest, trying to stay in the bush, whilst still getting where we wanted to go. It was another day of locked gates and dead ends, and finally we just popped back out on the bitumen road. Still, the trails had their moments.


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Alien rocks.


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Coastal beauty.


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Coastal beauty!


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Forest trails.


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This National Park had been part of a controlled burn back in June. The trees had started to regrow, we didn't see any animals on this day though.


We tried for a riverside campsite, some 20km south of the township of Cann River. WikiCamps let us down a bit here, as the campsite was only really suitable for one set up and there was already someone there, looked like he had been there a while... ‘Crazy Willy’ we called him. Back to Cann River, we stayed with everyone else at the reserve, the heavens opened just as I pulled the tent out of the car. Close to the road and not the most glamorous camp we’ve ever had, but not the worst either. I would say about 50% of the camps you take on the road fall into this category, it’s the other 50% that make it all worthwhile.

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...

Next day, more success with the forest roads this time. Like the campsites you just have to accept that some you win, some you lose.

'Big Bertha', met her match.

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Through the shack village of Bemm River, we tracked along the coast before heading up through the coastal forests. East Gippsland was moody.

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Breaking fresh tracks, always a good feeling.

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We skirted the edge of the Croajingolong National Park, that we had been dipping in and out of for the last few days. This little area gave a fantastic insight into the rejuvenation of the native Australian bush, and how it responds to fire.


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These seed pods need the heat of the fire to open.


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Dead? Not dead.

Heading back north, away from the coast we stopped at the town of Orbost. This would be our last town for a few days before heading into the Snowy River country, and on to the Victorian high country.

Thanks for reading.

https://rufant.com

https://www.instagram.com/rufant_adventures/
 

Rufant

Well-known member
Snowy River High Country.

Victoria, Australia.

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Fridge and fuel replenished at Orbost. The lovely, and knowledgeable old lady at the Tourist Information gave us some advice about the country ahead. It was clear she had spent plenty of time on the tracks and trails in this area. Plus, she was giving away free lemons from her garden!

It was only a short drive to the campsite at Wood Point. Right on the banks of the once mighty Snowy River. Now a shadow of its former self due to sixteen dams and seven power stations upriver, stemming its flow and diverting its water through over 200km of tunnels to agricultural lands.


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The lack of flow in the modern Snowy meant there was a beach along its banks here.

Still, a better camping spot you would be hard pressed to find. Just one other couple there when we arrived. Also a local guy walking his dog, we had a good chat with him, usually a pleasure to talk to farmers when they are the talking kind, and this was no exception. Next, more locals, a couple of ageing ‘hippies’ and their adopted Aboriginal daughters, come down for a paddle and a swim. Originally from Kalumburu, NT, where the parents had just worked for five years - somewhere I had happened to spend some time whilst in the Army. So we had a few things to talk about too. N made the girls bracelets out of crocheted wool, which seemed to make their day.


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Rollo at wide open throttle. He was loving the beach, even if it didn't quite have the smell sensations of the coastal beach back home.

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Later a couple of families rolled in, and set up in the final site. We spent the two nights camped here, as did our neighbours. I observed to N, that campers were less friendly in eastern Australia than where we’re from in South Australia. Not that people were unfriendly or rude, but they just kept themselves to themselves. Whereas if this was SA, everyone would have been over to everyone’s else’s camp by now, even if just to say "g’day”. I suppose this is just a reflection of the relative population densities of these areas. Touring the east was definitely making me appreciate what we took for granted touring back home.

...

I took a swim in the river the next day, in the deeper area on the far bank. Hippie dude had said there were a couple of big Bass (fish) over there. I didn’t see them, but myself and a metre plus female eel had a good staring competition for a while. Quite content to swim a couple of feet from me, only moving a bit further away when I put my hands in the water. Why female? My wildlife app told me the males don’t grow that big.

Whilst we were there I also gave the truck a good check over, and readjusted the handbrake now the new shoes were bedded in - handbrake was now holding, on even the steepest hills.


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Toolkit was a mess. So I unpacked it and changed its position in the truck, so it could sit level. I have a hardcase kit with sockets, etc in it, in addition to this bag.

I made chocolate chilli con carne for dinner.

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Beef, chorizo (from the market back in Canberra), onion, garlic, fresh chilli and chilli powder.


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Start the chorizo in a cold pan, this will render the fat out of it. Use this to brown the beef.


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Add the rest of the ingredients then add beef stock. You can get proper stock in jelly form these days, this is what I use mostly when camping.


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Use as dark a chocolate as you can get. I add it right at the end on the cooking off the heat. once the beef is super tender and the sauce reduced. I just add a bit at a time, to taste.


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Accompaniments. Toasted flatbreads, cultured cream or yoghurt, and pickled red onion and chilli - I just chop these first and put them in salt and vinegar or lime juice before I do everything else, they are nicely pickled by the time everything else is ready.


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Good tucker. Works for hot or cold weather.

...

So we pressed on. Into the hills proper, first this rutted and steep climb. Now with differential locks, Bertha burbles up this sort of thing with ease.

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Going up!

So many trees down. In an ideal world we would have a chainsaw and clear these as we go, but in the real world we just drove round them on the bush bashed tracks like everyone else.

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Raymond Creek Falls.

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Rufant

Well-known member
We took a detour to Jackson’s Crossing for lunch. I couldn't really find any information about why it is called Jacksons Crossing, but its definitely one of the easier places to cross the Snowy. What it was like before all those dams, who only knows?


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We didn't cross, Had no reason to. The risk vs reward equation changes considerably on these longer solo vehicle trips, or maybe I'm just getting old...

Pretty fine lunch spot.

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There were some beer cans in the fire pit here, funnily enough the same brand of beer can that we had seen sporadically spaced apart on the trail on the way in. There could have been 1000 people down that trail, unfortunately it only takes 1 dickhead to leave their mark. We packed the beer cans out.

The trail to this point was easy enough, and picturesque to boot.

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Thumbs up bitches.

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Back now on a more main dirt road, we headed off to that nights camp. Good views on the way.

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We passed through a couple of small villages on the way, they were quite ‘rural’ shall we say (banjo plays).

We camped that night at Wilson’s Hut. The high country is well known for its many huts and this was our first. Easy to get to, it was a great little slice of history.

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A for Alf.

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