are lockers necessary?

JIMBO

Expedition Leader
:sombrero: I believe that in your environment, lockers would be very beneficial, but

Just like handgun use--you really have to learn how to drive/w lockers--and you have the conditions to practice OFTEN !

I have not needed them yet, but I am seriously thinking about adding true tracs to my jeep. I am not sure about them in the winter on slippery snowy roads though.

The lockers would really help you in ICE if you have studded /chained tires--otherwise lockers can get you in TROUBLE-

Your jeep has ESP/BDL and those will limit the amount of tire spin, but won't apply power like the lockers will--

Good luck

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO
 

TxJprs

Observer
On my second JKUR and find that I will lock rear more often than both f/r. I only lock when I'm faced with a nice climb that might include ledges, off camber, etc. I lock as kind of an extra insurance to make it up. Often though I could of done without them. Often that is shown to me by the guy who follows me with open diffs f/r. wheel without anything and go from there. It's amazing how far you can go without any traction aid. I see it every time I go wheeling. Love seeing how far stock JKU goes before getting high centered ( usually the only thing slowing them down). I am a mild-moderate wheeler. On a 1-5 scale I am happy doing 2-3 all day long with an occasional 4 or mild 5. That said, I'm considering trading for a '15 ( I miss having a dark green jeep and tank might be nice) and this time going with a JKU, getting the factory LSD in the rear and adding a Truetrac up front. Pretty sure based on my experience and wheeling preferences that that combo will work out nice. If not, that is what my wheeling buddies and straps or my winch is for.

There is no right or wrong just opinions. Doing things in stages to see what works best for you.
 

kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
:sombrero: I believe that in your environment, lockers would be very beneficial, but

Just like handgun use--you really have to learn how to drive/w lockers--and you have the conditions to practice OFTEN !



The lockers would really help you in ICE if you have studded /chained tires--otherwise lockers can get you in TROUBLE-

Your jeep has ESP/BDL and those will limit the amount of tire spin, but won't apply power like the lockers will--

Good luck

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO

The true trac wont screw with my handling tho. correct?
 

JIMBO

Expedition Leader
:sombrero: Well, that I can't tell you-


The true trac wont screw with my handling tho. correct?

I've got Chrysler tru-lok front/rear and the only thing you should have to watch for is a reduced turning radius and maybe a "Click/Clack" noise when engaged-

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO
 

GetOutThere

Adventurer
Wheeling in the Canadian shield, I can tell you that if I didn't have lockers my Jeep would be sitting in the woods right now.

Hell, if I didn't have maxtraxx to use in addition to the lockers and aired down mud terrains, I would have been screwed.

It only takes one time for lockers to prove their worth.

The first time you hit an obstacle and have to turn around because of open diffs, you'll wish you had lockers. Alternatively, the first time your lockers allow you an experience that you otherwise would have missed, you will be praising your wisdom in purchasing them.
 

kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
:sombrero: Well, that I can't tell you-




I've got Chrysler tru-lok front/rear and the only thing you should have to watch for is a reduced turning radius and maybe a "Click/Clack" noise when engaged-

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO

I think the true tracs don't make noise. and dis engage for turns.
 

Utah KJ

Free State of Florida
Lockers are for gym class. I've been all over in a open diff KJ.... The better driver you are, the less gear you need. :)
 

JBL13

New member
I had a prototype Truetrac in the front of my 2002 Tacoma eight years ago. It was the only prototype in existence for a first-gen Tacoma with the automatic axle disconnect system. Other than the added traction, the only way I could tell it was there is because the steering effort increased slightly. It did not cause any handling issues, did not cause the front end to crab, and made no noise. I loved it. I had it removed after about three months because it started spitting out the driver's side axle shaft.

The truck had (and still has) a No Slip locker in the rear.

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk 2
 

JBL13

New member
The steering effort was slightly stiffer while in 2WD as well.

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk 2
 

dwvninety

Observer
That's the dilemma of having lockers. Some people think lockers will get you up or down or through that obstacle better than others who do not have it.

Sometimes it's better to run open diff's, center locked, front locked, rear locked, center and front locked, center and rear locked or front center and rear locked. It depends on the terrain and situation.

I sometimes run tail gunner and watch others and observe the line they take, are they locked and what locked are they on. I watch the characteristics of the vehicle and what it is doing. I then pick a strategy based on what I observe and proceed. Sometimes I get it right, sometimes I get it wrong. It takes a lot of trial and error and 4 wheeling to get experience on various terrains.

If you don't have selectable lockers I advise to get some. Detroit Lockers, True Tracs, Lunchbox etc limits your strategy, but are generally preferred than having no type of lockers at all.
 

kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
That's the dilemma of having lockers. Some people think lockers will get you up or down or through that obstacle better than others who do not have it.

Sometimes it's better to run open diff's, center locked, front locked, rear locked, center and front locked, center and rear locked or front center and rear locked. It depends on the terrain and situation.

I sometimes run tail gunner and watch others and observe the line they take, are they locked and what locked are they on. I watch the characteristics of the vehicle and what it is doing. I then pick a strategy based on what I observe and proceed. Sometimes I get it right, sometimes I get it wrong. It takes a lot of trial and error and 4 wheeling to get experience on various terrains.

If you don't have selectable lockers I advise to get some. Detroit Lockers, True Tracs, Lunchbox etc limits your strategy, but are generally preferred than having no type of lockers at all.

I look at it as, I don't put wheels in the air, its more of needed traction on trails, that's why I am looking hard at true tracs. I feel I don't need any more tire or lift after driving my rig, my suspension is dialed really good now. I think the true tracs will be a great addition, and while doing that I can add diff covers/armor. Other than that I should be good. I have yet to rip anything off my rig.
 

JIMBO

Expedition Leader
:sombrero: I'm afraid I'm a little spoiled-I've been using lockers on my last 6 4x4's and all have been rear lockers until this Rubi-

So over the years I've pretty well learned my trade and since I've circumvented the computer in this Rubi, I can use the lockers ANYTIME/ANYGEAR/ANYSPEED, although, I don't usem at hiwy speeds anyway !

I am so over prepared, that sure as hell something will happen on a trek------and I won't have a solution--FATE

So far so good though-

Rear locker is still the best all around choice though--better to "PUSH" up over debris/rocks/wet/hills--than try to pull-

:costumed-smiley-007:bike_rider: JIMBO
 

ColinJ

Member
I decided on a Rubicon for my overland build because I figured it was cheaper in the long run.

I haven't needed the lockers yet for overlanding but I have used them for going out and exploring a few trails. I got in a section just last week of wet solid slab rock in a really bad rain and without the rear locker I wasn't getting up it. Sure I could have winched.. but "click" and I'm up and over the rock and didn't get wet hooking up the winch. Also when overlanding you never know what you are going to run into.. I'm sure you've seen what that beavers will do..

The other reasons I got the rubicon over a non-rubicon:
1. 4 to 1 - great for when you want to go slow
2. Arguably the front dana 44 is tougher
3. 4.11 gear ratio allows me to run 35s on my 6 speed without much hits
4. Re-sale


Yes re-sale I found this out with my TJ.

I sold a 2006 Jeep TJ Rubicon for $13,000 to the dealer! while non-rubicons where going for $8000 and not selling. I could turn around now and sell my JK (2008) for almost what I paid for it used 3 years ago.
 

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