ARB fridge plug


New member
Hello, I am currently in the process of rearing the bed of my Tacoma for an ARB fridge. After looking at the 12v socket I came to the conclusion that it is not a secure enough connection. Does anybody have a good weatherproof connection that can handle the amps the fridge needs?

My understanding is that upon startup the fridge reaches about 30 amps. I've used Deutsch connectors before and love them but worry that the intial high amp draw will fry the connector due to the fact they are not rated for that many amps.


I need to do something too. I have the old style arb plug and it just plain sucks. Is the newer plug setup better? Does it have a more positive lock?

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Supporting Sponsor
The new style or current style plug now has the option to thread into our optional socket (see above). Updated power cord is part number 10910076. ARB Fridge Harness, includes everything to hardwire the fridge to your battery, including the threaded female socket - 10900027.

You can order these two items from your favorite ARB dealer.



It is does not require 30 amps for an ARB fridge on startup. Max is 5 amps but the fridge is really picky about voltage. It must have a constant supply which requires heavy gauge wiring which could support 50 amps over the run length intended. I use 8 awg wire for the fridge for about an 8 ft run to prevent voltage drop off.


Retired Explorer
I used the wiring harness from ARB and the new socket and threaded plug. I installed a 2nd battery system in the Tahoe. Ran the wiring harness from the battery along the driver's side to the left rear fender cover inside the cargo area. The new plug can be used with a standard 12volt outlet or you can remove the plug for the threaded blade plug. Very positive connection. It will not wiggle free. The socket has a weather proof cover when the threaded plug is not installed. Because of the gauge of the wiring harness, I did not add to the factory length. I was concerned about a voltage drop if I extended it. I lucked out and the length worked perfectly.


New member
5 amps definitely sounds way more reasonable on startup. A friend of mine told 30 amps, but i never bothered to confirm that number. Thank you for clarifying that. I've decided after looking at the layout with the fridge that it would be best if i hardwired the fridge's power instead of trying to use a connector, then installing a separate 12V port for other items. Couldn't I just modify the existing DC power cord by adding two ring terminals and a inline fuse for the fridge? Or would i better off just using the fridge connector part and using a larger gauge wire for the power line to it?


Depends on your situation. I have two cords for my fridge. One that is hardwired and gets used 99% of the time. I also have one with a plug so that I can move to another vehicle or to hook up an external battery to put in a bear locker when available.


Expo this, expo that, exp
I cut the end off the ARB power cord, use Anderson power pole connectors for attaching to truck power. I can easily reattach the factory connector if needed, but never have in three years.

Power draw is 5 amps on start.

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