ARB fridge. Goal Zero Extreme 350 Power Pack

[spikemd]

I ain't seen the later article, but I think I can guarantee you it's FoS.

I've run controlled power consumption tests on my Edgestar 43qt and it's quite very much inline with that of other fridges (better than the Waeco/Indel/Truckfridge units due to it's thicker insulation).
The Edgestar's hardware and electrical cord however are no doubt very cheaply made. But if one is willing to deal with fixing these items (metal handle & hinge replacements can be gotten at most hardware/home improvement stores), I think they can be an exceptionally good value.

Tha article is in the Summer2010 edition and they do a pretty good job of testing power consumption under various conditions. I will try and dig it up.

I agree that it is a great value but just be prepared for some possible glitches. Both fridges were fixed but required a good deal of troubleshooting and rewiring. The larger fridge broke down twice and instead of shipping it back they just refunded his money. He ordered a new power module or temp regulator (cant remember) and installed it and it is still running after a few years. There is an extensive thread on the Edgstars in another section. Im not knocking them just sharing personal experience.

If you are really concerned with power consumption the National Luna is the most miserly but very expensive.

 

[Christophe Noel]

Well, I'll chime in with my experience since I started this thread ages ago.

For starters, I'm on my third Goal Zero Extreme 350. Not too stoked with the quality of that product. My last unit was only used four times. I could charge it to 100% and after sitting on a shelf for as little as three weeks it would be down to 50-60%. That sucks. The previous unit had a bad inverter. We'll see how this third unit holds up.

As for powering my fridge, last summer we used it to power our ARB in temps that were between 50-75 degrees. It kept the fridge (always full and set to 42 degrees) running for just under two days. Maybe 36-40 hours. Not too long, really.

 

[spikemd]

Running the ARB for 2 days isnt bad considering the size of the battery and that with proper solar panels, you could extend that time significantly.

I found the OJ article and it tested a Wyntner which is a rebadged Edgstar. It has the same Danfoss compressor as the ARB and National Luna but inferioir electronics and temp control. Here is the quote from the 'miser/glutton' test:" The Whyntner consumed the exact same amount of power as all other fridges COMBINED over the two hours of the glutton or miser test - solidly on the glutton side of power use."

 

[4x4junkie]

Running the ARB for 2 days isnt bad considering the size of the battery and that with proper solar panels, you could extend that time significantly.

I found the OJ article and it tested a Wyntner which is a rebadged Edgstar. It has the same Danfoss compressor as the ARB and National Luna but inferioir electronics and temp control. Here is the quote from the 'miser/glutton' test:" The Whyntner consumed the exact same amount of power as all other fridges COMBINED over the two hours of the glutton or miser test - solidly on the glutton side of power use."

Sounds like it might be similar to their '07 test here... (certainly they're using the same test names anyway)

I don't know what they could've done wrong or different with the Whynter, but in the '07 report, only the ARB/Engel twins (ARB before the plastic ARB came out) and the NL tested with better performance than what I got when I ran my Edgestar under the same conditions in a 80° room as described in their test (and it was not by a large margin either, 1.75A averaged draw vs. 1.87A, or about 6% difference). Unless there actually is something different between the Whynter and EdgeStar (though I wouldn't think so)...

Is it possible to scan & post that article? (or you can PM / email it to me if you prefer) I've searched high & low and can't seem to find a link to the '10 article online anywhere.

 

[kevint]

I don't think that article is one of the things they have chosen to give away for free?

 

[cobound]

I've run my ARB47 for 5+ days off a stand alone Yellowtop Optima...looking to find a solar panel to keep it trickle charging during the day to extend its life to 2-4 more days. Ultimately I'd like 10 days out of it.

My treks vary, some the fridge is in the vehicle all the time and its started enough that it's so no big deal. Others it's 50/50, in/out...two trips a year in particular I can't run it in the Jeep at all, too much off road stuff. So a full 10 days on a stand alone would be ideal.

Was looking for something like the 350, but after reading this thread now it looks like something other than the Goal Zero, any thoughts.

Thanx,

B

 

[spikemd]

I ran my ARB a few nights on the 350 and it didn't pull more than 10-20%. But it wasn't opened much and it cools off at night.

[UPDATE (10/2013) - Ran the ARB over the weekend in the back of the truck only on the Extreme350 in the sun and it lasted 1.5 days without opening the fridge. I plugged it in Friday night and it was down 20% Sat morning then totally out Sunday morning. Just bought solar panels though! ]

I found the lights very useful at night around camp and very easy to plug n play.

If you want extended standalone time you need a big battery pack or ample solar power to charge what you have. Personally, I would put more money into higher watt solar panels because they can be used for small or large battery packs. The Nat Luna power pack is very nice but pricey and doesnt include the battery. If you have an Extreme 350 with 100watt+ panels then I think you could run indefinitely.

I like the foldup panels but they are expensive and less efficient. If you have space, you get a lot of wattage from rigid panels.

 

[spikemd]

Here is my setup. The Extreme350 with UI and four LightALifes in a pelican-knockoff case. I also put my lanterns and small flashlights in the same case for convenience.

After having the Extreme bouncing around in my Rangie on the trail, I would like to build or find some sort of open box or strap to keep it better protected.

 

[Corey]

Nice case Spike.
I use an ECS case to hold the solar panel, five of the Goal Zero LightALife lanterns, and the 350/inverter battery.

That case straps on top of my bigger case of supplies.

 

[mtntrekker]

What size is your case and the name brand? Looking at something like this for my Goal Zero lights, etc.

 

[Corey]

They are made by ECS.
The model numbers are listed in my camping gear review thread I believe, or in the camping section on the forum here.

The cases are cases in Oregon, and are military spec.
They are also made to interlock with each other no matter what size you get.

 

[boisefj]

I have a 43 Qt. EdgeStar Fridge, I power it at night with my Extreme 350 Battery. Last September I had it plugged into my Extreme 350 from 730 pm at night to 1030 am and it only used 2/5ths of the power. Granted it wasn't too warm out in the Idaho desert that night but Refrigerators don't run nonestop anyway. On the average, they run about 15 min per hour to maintain the temp they are set at. I haven't had any issues with my EdgeStar but did by the extended warranty to be safe. If I was camping longterm in one spot I would just use my Escape 30W Solar Panel and charge up the Extreme 350, although I would probably use 2 of them chained together to get a better return from the sun.

I have two friends with Edgestars 40qt and both had problems initially that they had to fix. They also draw twice the amount of power based on an article in Overland Journal. Larger fridges use more power. I will let you know if the Extreme350 will work as a standalone power source for the ARB after next week. If you are going to need to charge the Extreme solely by solar then I would pick up another Boulder30 panel to cut the recharge time down.

I havent decided on which solar panel I am going to be using. I dont need them on this trip since we will be driving each day.

I have the Costco deep cycle/starting battery in my rover which I think is rated at 115ah. Since I live in a warm climate, I dont care about cold cranking amps. Since I was previously using the oem wiring, the fridge would occasional cut off. I have since rewired the rear of the vehicle with a dedicated 10g wire and added more accessory sockets.

I also like the portability of the system and that I can power lights/fridge away from the vehicle.

 

[madmax718]

I don't have the super power needs of you guys, since Im not running a fridge. (yet).

However, a optima (or other AGM) yellow top with 75AH is a big capacity.

There are a number of options- and I prefer not using batteries in a little package. I like off the shelf solutions, that allow me flexibility. (SHTF?).

Goal Zero (as well as others) make a charge controller. Is it the best? Ehh. I dunno, time will tell. It can only do 7.5 amps (90 watts).

 

[Ready2Rip]

Here's a fridge shootout from 2011...

http://www.expeditionportal.com/res...rland-journal-portable-12v-fridge-review.html

 

[4x4junkie]

Here's a fridge shootout from 2011...

http://www.expeditionportal.com/res...rland-journal-portable-12v-fridge-review.html

That's the same article I linked in post #20:

Images and Text Courtesy of Overland Journal, Summer 2007 Edition.

I guess they can keep the 2010 one a secret all they want then, however it's not going to make me pay $$$ just to get a back issue for that one article... (especially when requiring a minimum purchase of 4 other issues at the same time for the inflated price of $85!!

)
Mostly I was just curious to see where it was they might've made a mistake since there's apparently such a vast difference between their test result and mine (along with what many other users here have reported as well).