ARB fridge 12v problem


Pretty sure Dometic / Waeco's been making their own compressors for years now, pretty much the 800lb gorilla worldwide now.

Of course they OEM for so many labels, who knows some brands may spec Secop.


Indel-B is the other big playa, Isotherm, Vitrifrigo, OEM for Truckfridge (own brand?), Peterbilt, Kenworth.

Make their own compressor too I believe, although Truckfridge apparently used to have Secop?

I think people put too much emphasis on that one component, least likely to break.

The PCBs and other fiddly electric bits are what go bad, and IMO the ability to get good service & parts 15 years later should be the top priority criterion, after build quality / reliability.


They aren't clear either way as near as I can tell, neither saying they build their own or that they're using Danfoss. So probably a combination depending on business unit and model. Danfoss isn't a small supplier of compressors either.

LOL, matter of perspective I suppose. When you ask the PCB designer it's always the moving mechanical bits that fail most. But in this case it's probably one of the boards.


Very very rare the compressor actually fails.

Energy efficiency can vary a bit, but insulation is the real factor there.


Well-known member
my ARB first lost the control panel after I spent a day driving through rain storms w/it attached to the outside of my trailer.. was fine, just didnt have any way to change set points anymore or see temp but meh.. then its 12v side stopped working much like the OP a year or so later after battery ate ********..

I switched to engel because it was simpler, with less stuff to go wrong.. and it was all metal and not plastic.. I miss some stuff like interior lighting, but not enough to make me wanna go back down that path.. need to take the ARB apart and see if I can fix it, gave my dad my old trailer, might as well give him the old fridge that mounts right on up.


jumping in here....

Just got back from a camping trip. Woke up this morning and the fridge was off. At first I thought I had a dead battery but that was not the case, still showing 12.8V back at the plug outlet. Getting 12.8V all the way through the plug, so I know I'm getting power to the unit.

Hold down power, nothing. No lights, nothing.

Get home and plug it into the garage and it fires right up.


New member
I faced a simliar problem recently and found that it was caused by a bad connection between the “cigarette lighter” attachment and locking ARB plug on the power cord. I cleaned the contacts and now the 12v side of the power supply works again.

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