Many thanks for the pics.
Cool thanks. My Av is a T-Bar IFS front / Live Coil rear. On the front, the sway bar links are a straight bolt through - so a bit of a pain to connect and disconnect. The Warrior Products quick disconnects have a pin in the middle - so wondering if those are a viable solution? I don't do rock crawling and typically stick to stuff that would be rated 5 or less in the Backcountry Adventures books - I may push it beyond that 5 rating a bit if I was with multiple vehicles and had someone more versed at this than I am.Coils don't have friction inherent to them like leaf springs do so they are prone to hysteresis when disturbed. That means prone to resonate or carry momentum forward from one cycle to the next. This can lead to sudden and unexpected loss of stability at higher speeds.
Additionally on a vehicle with solid axles at both ends in particular, there's almost nothing about a coil sprung vehicle (without sway bars) to tell the coils how to share the weight. If your springs are 100lb/inch and you put 200lb on two of them, the springs themselves don't really care if that's 200lb on one (taking two inches of compression) and 0 on the other, so the load - the vehicle chassis - leans, compounding the incentive to lean even further. Sure, the geometry of the links, stiffness of the bushings etc tend to offer some means of detent but really not much, and little enough that it gets eaten up quickly under the worst conditions.
A (dual) live axle, coil sprung vehicle should have at least one small sway bar at one end to provide detent even off-road. Any live axle vehicle with coil springs should have sway bars connected on-road.
I run sway bars at both ends on both of my 4wd vehicles (IFS/solid rear) and disconnect the front bar when the terrain calls for it. I did take care to extend the rear link attachment points (not the links themselves) when lifting so that sway bar geometry remained neutral and would not bind. The sway bars do not hinder me off road and yes, I'm going where you're going
So where's the cutoff? How much "swerve-ability" is safe for road travel? What about a built Unimog camper? A 6x6 MAN?Things that would make you swerve don't tend to give you the choice of whether want to be in that situation. Sometimes it seems people are coming at this from a "Cigarettes are fine I've been smoking them 30 years and haven't got cancer yet" perspective.
Can I drive to the store without sway bars? Sure if it came down to it any of us could manage to get our vehicles down the road in all sorts of tragic barely roadworthy condition - I just can't get behind the idea of entirely deleting safety equipment which has an objective purpose.
And I don't plan on convincing you either, but I will respond just so readers can see both sides.None of this will convince you of course but I've said my piece. See ya out there (with my sway bars on).
I think this is where you have to try it yourself, and see if the amount of roll is acceptable. Every truck will respond differently.I have been considering ways to get a bit more articulation offroad (particularly the front given the limited travel of T-Bar suspension), but I'm also in the process of adding a RTT. Hence me asking, if anyone with a RTT (and that higher weight) actually disconnects their sway bars. If so, what is the experience? Good, bad, meh? I'm not a big fan of removing my sway bars given the street use (it is my daily driver as well).
Difficult to guess if the stiffer springs would offset the OEM springs with a sway bar, without exact specs.Another idea I'm considering is going to a stiffer T-Bar. Wondering if the stiffer T-bar would allow me to disconnect the front sway bar and get an overall stiffer (more stable) ride and simultaneously allow the front IFS to articulate a bit more offroad? I'm not sure how that works - hence me asking. Thanks again for any and all input. I want it safe and capable.