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Anti-Sway Bars with RTT?

Stryder106

Explorer
Hi,

I have a 2002 Chevy Avalanche very modified and have recently built an overbed rack for RTT. The 2002 has coils in the rear and torsion bars in the front. I have changed to Hummer rear coil springs and custom Fox 2.0 shocks so the truck is quite a bit stiffer than stock ride. However, I started thinking about increased off-road articulation and removing the sway bars, but with the added weight and height of a RTT is that a dangerous thing to do?

Asking to see what others have done. Much appreciated.
 

Heading Out

Adventurer
What about building sway bar disconnects. they're available for Jeeps, but for an Avalanche you would likely have to build your own.

That way, on the road, you have the stability of the sway bars, then when you hit the trail, pull the disconnects and you have more articulation.

I don't know how tight things are under your truck, but if there's room that may be an option,
 

Stryder106

Explorer
Yes - I was thinking of that. I found Warrior Products actually makes some, but I've heard that once you disconnect them it is a real b@#ch to get them back together. My daughter's Jeep has the quick disconnect and that is really easy and nice.
 

Mundo4x4Casa

West slope, N. Ser. Nev.
My son just bought a high end RTT with vestibule and it's now on top of his 2001 Grand Cherokee. I believe the '99-'04 WJ to be the zenith of off roadable Jeep Cherokee technology. He has a 2 inch lift with stuff, and to fight the sway has installed the thicker anti sway bar in the rear. So far so good. Just remember, you only have to disconnect one side of the anti sway bar and wire or zip tie the loose arm up out of the way to get the full, unfettered effect.
jefe
 

Stryder106

Explorer

Meili

Adventurer
Bit of a suspension geek here.

The only real way is to try it without them. Remove/loosen them and go for a drive , just dont bomb a corner at 65MPH until you get the feel for it.

My old 88 S10 road really harsh, disconnected the front bar (33mm!) and it was a different truck. Had no rear bar.

It was so much more comfortable and got used to the slight added sway.

On my current (85 S10) build I will be adding a small rear bar (24mm) and installing a smaller front bar (25mm) due to the weight of the utility bed/cap/RTT.

I dont plan on losing much if any articulation. Its all about balance

Look to see if other models that uses your frame had smaller bars. You CAN have your cake and eat it too.

You can fine tune with bushing material and type. A stack of polyurethane bushings will bind worse then stock, especially when compared to ball socket/ ball joint

type endlinks.

On the frame mount or differential mount, poly could be better because it allows the bar to twist easier, again especially the greasible ones.

If I know how the bar is mounted, bar diameter , weight added etc. I can help more.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
I think the 'trick' with re-connecting or even just straight-up installing or replacing sway bar bushings is to do both sides at once, get things in position before fastening, elsewise you are fighting the torsion of the sway bar itself if you lock one end down before positioning the other.

Having had the sways on my Sub apart - I believe they are the same as your Avalanche - it would be less than an hour to remove both front and rear sways for an off road articulation and roadability test. All of 12 bolts to pull them both off. Another 2 to removing the hanging rear links. I was going to suggest disconnecting the end links and wiring them up out of the way for such a test by reviewing my mod pictures I don't think the fronts can be pivoted up clear of the upper control arm. And if you wire the rear up at rest, if will totally interfere with max extension as the bar will bind on the diff cover at full suspension droop if the bar already starts at the 'up' position. At full droop with everything attached, it barely clears the cover as it is. So I think you'd have to remove them completely or use a bunch of industrial rubber bungees to tie them up, so they can still move.

Are there aftermarket sways that promise more articulation while maintaining street function? I don't see how they could do both at the same time.
 

davescott

Observer
If you've got coil springs you need a sway bar at one end. If not, once you get tipped to one side you can just keep rolling. Happened to a guy I was with on the Rubucon Trail who'd changed from leaf springs on a Samurai to coils w/o a sway bar and had to be flipped over in the trail. Kinda funny at the time.
 

dcwn.45

Observer
When I upgraded the suspension on my 2nd gen Tacoma to OME springs and shocks, I got the heavier ones to carry the winch and bumper, I removed the sway bar and love it.
I have a bed rack and RTT and am finding the rear AAL to be barely enough.
I will likely get new rear springs, as I am installing sliders and I think the weight of them will be enough to require it.
I much prefer the articulation and ride without sway bars, but the only way to know is to try it on your truck CAREFULLY UNTIL YOU DETERMINE HOW IT ACTS.
 

ExplorerTom

Explorer
I have no sway bar on the rear (removed) of my Explorer and disconnects on the front. Fully disconnected on the street is a little too soft for my liking. But on the trail it floats over stuff.

The trick to reconnecting disconnects is to find level ground. I've found that my rear tire swing out can drastically effect the front depending on if it's opened or closed.
 
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