With a cab like that, if we ever do meet up on the road I will have to roll up alongside, roll down my window and askAnyway, back to our regular programing.
Lain, I've never seen that before. My plan was to cut a full sized, or as big as I could get it, on one side of the back of the cab and weld around it a new frame to add back in structural strength. The door itself would be robust and while closed would aid in structural support, while driving/tilting.
Looking like this when finished:
That button is to help you slow down when engine braking - check you exhaust and if you have something that looks like a linkage attached to the exhaust, then you have an exhaust brake, which make engine braking much more efficient. On a steep hill, you won't even need your normal brakes if you have it in the right gear. I can't even measure the wear on my brake pads after 60,000kms, I hardly ever use the normal brake, only just for holding it still at a traffic light.
This is what mine looks like ( yours may not be so shiny ) It is attached to the exhaust outlet of the turbo, and you can see the linkage going back to a pneumatic ram.
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Here is a pic of one of mine. Totally adjustable coil over, 5 way shocks, etc, etc. Ran 255's front 295's rear, lots of AutoX! The 5.0 dyno'd at 393HP. I use to embarrass some very expensive cars with it...
The link to the body builder handbook is correct, but might be difficult to get registered. I have a copy if you need one. This shows what can be cut out. The green bit needs to be moved replaced with two similar pillars either side of the cyan cut out.
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I decided to extend the roof of my cab, but kept the original structure. The opening is the biggest MB allowed.
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The problem with the big opening is sealing it from the noise - the transmission is directly underneath. This was my solution, which works well.
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There is a inner seal as well, which is quite big to allow for the approximate 400mm of flex you can get between the cab and camper. The little accordion rubbers just don't do it.
The OM366LA is the most powerful stock engine, but the block is the same as the OM352, just has a different head and stroker crank to take it out to 6 litres. All the extra power comes from the injection pump, injectors and the intercooler. You can get 300hp from a normal OM366 with a few modifications.
The UG100/8 comes from the newer model U4000/U5000s, I have one in mine, it just needs a manual conversion kit.
droolI run this nowadays. (You can see beside it the 240 with the 383 stoker)
This is great... and makes sense on the sizjung with the structural components there. I assume that if one were so inclined they could in fact open it up further but the level of fabrication would likely be unreasonable?
And would love a copy of that handbook. Seems like it's a crucial piece.
I did a lot of research
U1550
U1700
U3000/4000
U1600/U1650
U1300/L37
U1250 ( the best one)