Another Doka Build... oh my!

quickdraw81

New member
Hey Everyone-

One of those lurkers here finally peeking his head out. I could use the group's knowledge on a project I'm about to undertake with a mog. Years ago, on one of my very first long-distance overlanding trips, I met this retired couple with a single-cab unimog setup for expedition and fell in love. I know there are other, capable options in North America but the unimog has buried itself into my mind now. Go figure... Same thing happened with the 80-series and she's been the object of my affection for years now... the kids have nicknamed her the 'goat'.

PXL_20220101_233515766.jpegPXL_20220105_010615098.jpegPXL_20210704_233032122.jpegPXL_20210705_022708747.MP.jpg

We've outgrown the 80 for longer trips with the crew I'm trying to haul- me (6'4"), my girlfriend, and my two kids (11 and 13 and growing too fast). Oh, and there's a pack of dogs too. It's an unbelievable rig, super durable and go anywhere (which is a big factor for me). I've rebuilt everything at this point, upgraded the camping setup, and built her to last. I do plan to hang onto her for two-person, shorter trips which frees up the mog to be a real distance platform for my crew or the occasional visitor. Worth noting, I've built an s30 Datsun from scratch and done most of the mechanical work on the 80 (so reasonably handy) but I'm limited with electronics and engine repair. And with the mog, frankly, I'm a little burnt out on something like a full-build and don't have the time right now to do it myself anyway.

I've spent the last couple years poking around mogs and this past month really digging in, educating myself and making a plan. The goal is to have a vehicle for both medium and long-term travel plans. Initially, I suspect we'll do some week-or-two trips like we do with the goat. I still work and will for the next 6-8 years but I can work remotely and I'm thinking sneaking off for the summers while the kids are on break (with some starlink approach) would be the next evolution. Then after retirement and the kids being off on their own want to really, really just take off... make the arctic circle run, south america, etc... which would most often be two of us and dogs.

So, I want a doka (I think) unimog. Generally, pretty focused on a quality build with few home-like luxuries but I'm not wild about spending 500K-1M for a unicat-style rig. Trying to stay under 300K or less but focused on getting an excellent base truck/camper in place while adding/tweaking the easier bolt-ons later and as we learn. Happy to do some grunt work on making some things happen to offset cost if there are ways to... I travel to Europe a couple times a year and sourcing something from there myself is a possibility. It seems finding a used setup would probably be the most cost effective (open to any unlisted options) but looking back through vehicles sold here and elsewhere it'll be hard to find something like what I would like... methinks. Also, probably worth sharing that I have an irrational cool-factor need. Hence the unimog.

So, here's my current wishlist:

Truck Target:
  • Unimog SBU in a long chassis (1550L,1700L, 2150L, 2450L, LF8, etc. ). The 1300Ls are the most abundant but do not seem to be large enough.
  • 25 years or older but ideally a mid-90s truck
  • If importing, it needs to be a camper/crane/fire truck/etc to get the 2.5% and not 25% treatment
  • 3700 - 3850MM wheelbase
  • OM366LA or OM366A
  • CTIS... (my least favorite thing camping is airing up and down... well, mostly up)
  • AC... yes, please.
  • Sound deadening galore!
  • There are a number of other things that seem secondary right now (winches, tree cage/roofrack, dual fuel tanks, etc)
Question I have here...
  1. Any exceptions to the 25-year rule? i.e. substantially similar u500 since freightliner sold them Nothing that's compelling or worth it
  2. Are there any drivetrain things I should know or be targeting (transmission, axle setup, etc)? UG/100
  3. Overdrive / fast axles? / Fast hubs / superfast axles... Very confused on the different options. What's the best most-cost effective way to get to a decent highway speed?
  4. Do I need a working group transmission? Sounds very cool but unnecessary er..... very cool and very necessary
  5. Engine brake- I'm in Colorado and do plenty of mountain driving. My gut is this is necessary (had brakes fail once, no bueno) but is that true? Seems standard? and a must
  6. Right power target? Climbing mountains both off-road and at freeway speeds will be common. 250 minimum?
  7. What's the right balance between small, nimble and big enough for my needs? i.e. Do I go with a low-roof option and a lift-top camper? Track width of the vehicle... anything to consider there?
  8. What's an ideal height for getting into all or most of the places I'm likely to travel? e.g. Going to the Sun in Glacier NP has an 11' height limit.
  9. I cannot find the cab length on a standard vs. doka SBU cab. Anyone have those handy? 2.1 and 3.2M
  10. Do I want the tall cab height? Does it make that much of a difference? worth the height trade-off?
Camper:

My (pretty early) intent would be to convert the rear of the doka cab for dual use... seats for driving, beds for sleeping. This will take some pressure off of trying to get a huge box with multiple beds. Seems you can get a well-built, empty camper box from Total Composites, Boxmanufaktur and others for 15K-35Kish. Fully built out... well, it seems that as high as you want to go. This is one of the areas I'm most confused. I'm sure there are many reasons why they get so expensive but I just toured a seemingly very high-quality OEV HBE that is priced at 65K for an 6.5-8 foot box. It no doubt does not have some of the things you'd want for a full expedition rig (e.g. full shower) but I don't understand how you go from that to, as best I can find, 200K for 3 more feet in something like an entry level Bliss box.

I know Bliss has gone up almost 2x in the last 3-5 years... is there just a hole in the market for quality 100K boxes with the price evolution there? Or are there good reasons for the additional cost?

Pretty early on digging in here but a few other early questions:
  1. Is it worth the brain damage to buy an empty expedition box and build it myself (acknowledging my very limited electronic skill-set)?
  2. Cab-to-camper passthrough. How big can these get?
  3. Can people ride in the box while driving?
  4. Can people ride in a lift-top box while driving?
  5. What's the largest expedition box I can get on a doka cab? Which truck maximizes this?
  6. How do people wash clothes?
In my mind I'd end up with something like one of these...
a4f96fb21126185a7787e26ea2ea2543.jpg
1650220415968.png

I've found lots of sources here in the states and abroad for sourcing a vehicle - Expedition Import (Scott's great!), Atkinson Vos (Paul's great!), Couch Off-road (rather pricey relative to others...still digging in) and many other marketplace sites (mobile.de, etc.)

I haven't had as much luck with the expedition boxes. Or at least finding the high bang for buck scenario I mentioned. Any ideas here would be much appreciated.

Anywho... looking forward to the long journeys ahead!

-Tanner
 

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palebluewanders

Active member
Hey Tanner,

Lots of cool ideas in here! Love that you are planning for the dogs; SO much of our layout is designed around having a dog so we can relate. Also counting on Elon Musk to come through on that mobile Starlink...

Wasn't sure what you meant by needing or not needing the engine brake; this just refers to putting the truck in a lower gear while going up/downhill which all trucks can do.

Unfortunately I don't have answers to most of your questions but Atkinson Vos builds good value boxes too. If you get your mog from them (they have soooo many, we visited in December) and you decide to take the plunge on building the interior yourself it might make sense to have them build your box/subframe too. Currently they don't really do the interior stuff, but we have high confidence in their box and subframe build (which is why we went with them).

An empty box and subframe won't cost you a huge amount, but other things add up quickly, especially if any of them are bespoke. We are having Atkinson Vos do our motorbike and spare tire rack, foldable rear bumper, slide out deck, custom diesel tank to optimize use of chassis real estate, etc. Those all turned out to be pretty big ticket items, not to mention their many hours of labor and 20% VAT.

A couple more things:
- People riding in the box while driving: I believe you can install seatbelts in there that would make this legal. Aesthetically maybe not the best to have seatbelts on your couch though, lol.
- Laundry: lots of people have mini washing machines in their trucks these days. The Daewoo Mini wall-mounted one seems popular, though we aren't planning to have one so haven't looked into them too much.

Best of luck with your research and planning!

Tracy
 

quickdraw81

New member
Hey Tanner,

Lots of cool ideas in here! Love that you are planning for the dogs; SO much of our layout is designed around having a dog so we can relate. Also counting on Elon Musk to come through on that mobile Starlink...

Wasn't sure what you meant by needing or not needing the engine brake; this just refers to putting the truck in a lower gear while going up/downhill which all trucks can do.

Unfortunately I don't have answers to most of your questions but Atkinson Vos builds good value boxes too. If you get your mog from them (they have soooo many, we visited in December) and you decide to take the plunge on building the interior yourself it might make sense to have them build your box/subframe too. Currently they don't really do the interior stuff, but we have high confidence in their box and subframe build (which is why we went with them).

An empty box and subframe won't cost you a huge amount, but other things add up quickly, especially if any of them are bespoke. We are having Atkinson Vos do our motorbike and spare tire rack, foldable rear bumper, slide out deck, custom diesel tank to optimize use of chassis real estate, etc. Those all turned out to be pretty big ticket items, not to mention their many hours of labor and 20% VAT.

A couple more things:
- People riding in the box while driving: I believe you can install seatbelts in there that would make this legal. Aesthetically maybe not the best to have seatbelts on your couch though, lol.
- Laundry: lots of people have mini washing machines in their trucks these days. The Daewoo Mini wall-mounted one seems popular, though we aren't planning to have one so haven't looked into them too much.

Best of luck with your research and planning!

Tracy

Hey Tracy! Thanks so much for thew thoughts... Would love to have a sneak peak at the costing for the various option your looking at with Atkinson Vos if you would be comfortable with that. I didn't throw the motorbike rack and other things I should ask them about on my list. I'm headed to the UK in a month and trying to sneak away to go see those guys. I didn't realize they would do the boxes as well about not surprising as I've been pretty impressed with them so far.

Sorry.. I meant exhaust brake. It's that little button on the floor on some of these that hit step on with your heel to slow the engine down. It doesn't seem like they're common and didn't know if I should go to the effort of tracking one down.

I thought the VAT didn't apply if it was for export... I guess I should dig in there some more.

Daewoo mini... check. Seatbelts... check. Dogs.... I wouldn't get out of the driveway without a Dog option ;)

Just followed you guys on IG. Look forward to following your adventures!
 

Iain_U1250

Explorer
Lots of question and to start off you are looking for the unicorn of mogs, a late model DOKA with the big 10 bolt axles/chassis. The only thing more rare would be a 6x6 DOKA.


1. There are U500s over there that suit most of your requirement, except being a DOKA - doubt there would be more than one or two of those.
2. You want the one with the 10 bolt wheels, other than that, there are not many options.
3. You need the fast axles and an overdrive to get to highway speeds, or one with a UG100/8 transmission which will let you go a lot faster.
4. You also need the working gear is you want to go slower than 5kph down hill, and to go slowly over obstacles, unless you plan on just sticking to the road.
5, You definitely want the exhaust brake - makes a big difference to how efficient engine braking is. It would be pretty hard to find one without one to be honest.
6. Lot of power needed - you want the heavy Unimog, so would need lots of power. Nothing less than 200hp, and preferable 250hp. You will still be slow. Plenty of upgrades available for the engine, but requires some mechnical skill or deeper pockets.
7. You have a contradiction there, a U1700 chassis is big, and wide. Height is not really the problem I've found. Our little U1250 will fit where you Landcruiser goes, the U1700 is bigger, but then what you call tracks in the US seem like highways to us down here. Turning circle is another thing . My little U1250 has a 14.1m curb to curb turning circle, which is two metres more than your Land Cruiser, a U1700L38 is 16m.
8, 3.5m seems to be the maximum recommend height for most expedition trucks.
9. The DOKA cab is twice as big inside as the standard cab - it has two of the same doors. It is 3.2m from front to back on a DOKA, and 2.1m on a normal cab.
10. You are tall - you need the extra cab height or will hit your head on the roof, especially with an air seat on the bumps.




Camper questions
1. Building it yourself - it takes a long time if you want lots of things, but if it is just the basics, then you could do it in a few weeks. Check out our friends from the Outfit. https://www.youtube.com/c/TheOutFit/videos
2. I built mine as big as possible - from the the Unimog body build handbook.
GDOZ9693.JPG
3. Mine is registered for four seats, we can have people in the back. I have a full roll cage front and rear of the box, and it is built to the same standard as a bus. We have pretty strict rules here in Australia, and they did allow sideways seats back then. Over here, the interior also needed to comply with various rules, like having everything mounted so it would not come loose in an accident. Our fridges have a steel mounting frame, designed to hold over 500kg, the intrior panel are a lightweigh composite - 1.8mm ply, aerogel foam and laminex, they are strong, but will crush if you hit is really hard. There are also no sharp edges, and door has proper antiburst locks, windows had to meet certain standards etc. Think about your kids in the back getting hit by a washing machine or your fridge if the truck rolls. Everything in our truck is tied down, we have cargo nets on the bed to hold things like our camera bags etc.
4. I doubt it, if you rolled the truck, the box would most likely disintegrate, as would most composite panel boxes. It would take some serious engineering to solve that problem.
5. 4.2m would most likely be the biggest box, but then you guys in the US don't seem to have rules that say 60% of the wheelbase is the maximum overhang, so you could add a metre to that if you wanted, but it would look weird and take out vehicles in the lane next to you when you went around a corner.
6. Go to a laundromat, or campground with washing machines. You won't want to use that amount of space for something used once or twice a week at most, just bring lots of extra clothes and wash them when you get to a laundromat.

 
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RoamIt

Well-known member
I'm in the same boat, or should I say 'Doka' as you :) I went with a 1224AF Doka Firetruck, less capable than the Unimog off road, but more capable on road. Which I think I'll be spending more time on. I do have all 3 lockers/2sp transfer, so I think that will help.

While it was still in Germany, I had Mog-Tech modify the OM366LA engine for 300HP/700ftLbs. In the tuning, they also raised the rev limit to 2950. This was not for speed, but for getting up mountains. But with taller tires, the 65mph on the road will be nice.

I won't have it in the driveway for another couple weeks, so I'm on the very front end of the build. I am also planning on using the extended cab for not only more seating, but storage and an additional sleeping area if needed.

My goal is to keep the rig as short as possible, shooting for around 24' not counting spares/bike rack, which means a short habitat because of the Doka. To maximize the space, I'm actually thinking about using the back Doka door as the main entrance. It becomes the 'foyer' area, taking off shoes/coats there, then having a full sized door into the habitat as opposed to a crawl tunnel. This would save a ton of space in the interior of the habitat.

Without actual measuring yet, I'm thinking the box is going to be about 16'. I may build a composite box from Total Composites. (the quote for a kit was 16K, as I recall). But another idea I have that I'm investigating is a reefer unit. I've received a couple quotes so far. I'm hoping I can make that work as it would save a lot of labor.

I'll do the cab work, and do the build out of the box myself, farming out what I can't do myself. I don't have a huge budget so it's certainly not going to be a Bliss level build, but I want the full monty, including a clothes washer. And I know, as you pointed out, having that all built for me is going to be $$$.
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
Ha! I had to step away in the middle of my post, glad Iain jumped in, he has A LOT more information than I do.

BTW- I've had 4 S30's. One I put a Ford 302 in one and another a 383 stroker. But my favorite had a tweaked 2.8L in it.
 

palebluewanders

Active member
Hey Tracy! Thanks so much for thew thoughts... Would love to have a sneak peak at the costing for the various option your looking at with Atkinson Vos if you would be comfortable with that. I didn't throw the motorbike rack and other things I should ask them about on my list. I'm headed to the UK in a month and trying to sneak away to go see those guys. I didn't realize they would do the boxes as well about not surprising as I've been pretty impressed with them so far.

Sorry.. I meant exhaust brake. It's that little button on the floor on some of these that hit step on with your heel to slow the engine down. It doesn't seem like they're common and didn't know if I should go to the effort of tracking one down.

I thought the VAT didn't apply if it was for export... I guess I should dig in there some more.

Daewoo mini... check. Seatbelts... check. Dogs.... I wouldn't get out of the driveway without a Dog option ;)

Just followed you guys on IG. Look forward to following your adventures!

Hey Tanner, no prob, added you back on IG and will DM you with some info on costs of the major components.

Ah, I know nothing about the exhaust brake. My truck does have a button on the floor that you step on, but it's for turning the engine off completely. You're probably right about the VAT too, you should be able to get it refunded or excluded altogether if it's for export.
 

Iain_U1250

Explorer
Ah, I know nothing about the exhaust brake. My truck does have a button on the floor that you step on, but it's for turning the engine off completely. You're probably right about the VAT too, you should be able to get it refunded or excluded altogether if it's for export.

That button is to help you slow down when engine braking - check you exhaust and if you have something that looks like a linkage attached to the exhaust, then you have an exhaust brake, which make engine braking much more efficient. On a steep hill, you won't even need your normal brakes if you have it in the right gear. I can't even measure the wear on my brake pads after 60,000kms, I hardly ever use the normal brake, only just for holding it still at a traffic light.

This is what mine looks like ( yours may not be so shiny :) ) It is attached to the exhaust outlet of the turbo, and you can see the linkage going back to a pneumatic ram.

DSC00251.jpg
 

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
@Iain_U1250 is right, you should see a small pneumatic cylinder forward of the turbo exhaust dump pipe. It operates a flapper just below the elbow to restrict the exhaust flow. There is also a pneumatic cylinder just aft of your injector pump which shuts off your fuel. We use our exhaust brake all the time. For most grades we can almost use the exhaust brake exclusively, I wouldn't want a truck like ours without one.

You can see the exhaust brake below. I took this after I finished our turbo upgrade and really wish I would have taken the time to get the various exhaust iron pipes ceramic coated.
PXL_20211005_142631953.jpg
 

quickdraw81

New member
Lots of question and to start off you are looking for the unicorn of mogs, a late model DOKA with the big 10 bolt axles/chassis. The only thing more rare would be a 6x6 DOKA.


1. There are U500s over there that suit most of your requirement, except being a DOKA - doubt there would be more than one or two of those. I've seen just the one doka and it was absurdly expensive
2. You want the one with the 10 bolt wheels, other than that, there are not many options. Check
3. You need the fast axles and an overdrive to get to highway speeds, or one with a UG100/8 transmission which will let you go a lot faster. Which mogs come with the UG100?
4. You also need the working gear is you want to go slower than 5kph down hill, and to go slowly over obstacles, unless you plan on just sticking to the road. Ok... sounds cool and is cool. Check
5, You definitely want the exhaust brake - makes a big difference to how efficient engine braking is. It would be pretty hard to find one without one to be honest. ah... I didn't realize they were prevalent.
6. Lot of power needed - you want the heavy Unimog, so would need lots of power. Nothing less than 200hp, and preferable 250hp. You will still be slow. Plenty of upgrades available for the engine, but requires some mechnical skill or deeper pockets. And my understanding is the OM366LA is the easiest/best to tune. Is that correct?
7. You have a contradiction there, a U1700 chassis is big, and wide. Height is not really the problem I've found. Our little U1250 will fit where you Landcruiser goes, the U1700 is bigger, but then what you call tracks in the US seem like highways to us down here. Turning circle is another thing . My little U1250 has a 14.1m curb to curb turning circle, which is two metres more than your Land Cruiser, a U1700L38 is 16m. Appreciate this... the height thing I've never thought about in the states but I've heard it's a consideration elsewhere in the world. The roads here are plenty wide for most anything aside from some shelf roads in the mountains that I wouldn't attempt in a mog. I didn't consider the turning radius much... just assumed it was gone be a thing to turn any of these around. Have you ever run into issue with this?
8, 3.5m seems to be the maximum recommend height for most expedition trucks. Check
9. The DOKA cab is twice as big inside as the standard cab - it has two of the same doors. It is 3.2m from front to back on a DOKA, and 2.1m on a normal cab. Awesome. Surprisingly difficult measurements to find.
10. You are tall - you need the extra cab height or will hit your head on the roof, especially with an air seat on the bumps. Check. I don't like hitting my head... turns out being tall is a bit overrated.




Camper questions
1. Building it yourself - it takes a long time if you want lots of things, but if it is just the basics, then you could do it in a few weeks. Check out our friends from the Outfit. https://www.youtube.com/c/TheOutFit/videos I'll check them out
2. I built mine as big as possible - from the the Unimog body build handbook. Never heard of this... is it this? https://bb-portal.mercedes-benz-trucks.com/en/GLOBAL. I would love to have it feel like the cab and the camper are part of the same space-ish. Like open up most of the cab to the camper.
View attachment 717617
3. Mine is registered for four seats, we can have people in the back. I have a full roll cage front and rear of the box, and it is built to the same standard as a bus. We have pretty strict rules here in Australia, and they did allow sideways seats back then. Over here, the interior also needed to comply with various rules, like having everything mounted so it would not come loose in an accident. Our fridges have a steel mounting frame, designed to hold over 500kg, the intrior panel are a lightweigh composite - 1.8mm ply, aerogel foam and laminex, they are strong, but will crush if you hit is really hard. There are also no sharp edges, and door has proper antiburst locks, windows had to meet certain standards etc. Think about your kids in the back getting hit by a washing machine or your fridge if the truck rolls. Everything in our truck is tied down, we have cargo nets on the bed to hold things like our camera bags etc. Yeah, I don't really want to smush the kids... seems the doka cab is the best option... maybe throw a few seatbelt options in the back just in case
4. I doubt it, if you rolled the truck, the box would most likely disintegrate, as would most composite panel boxes. It would take some serious engineering to solve that problem. Check
5. 4.2m would most likely be the biggest box, but then you guys in the US don't seem to have rules that say 60% of the wheelbase is the maximum overhang, so you could add a metre to that if you wanted, but it would look weird and take out vehicles in the lane next to you when you went around a corner. This is about what I was hoping for 11-13ft... the doka cab dimensions was the missing piece on calculating this and it seems I can pull off what I was wanting to
6. Go to a laundromat, or campground with washing machines. You won't want to use that amount of space for something used once or twice a week at most, just bring lots of extra clothes and wash them when you get to a laundromat. Yeah, this makes sense

 
I 100% agree about the exhaust brake. It’s essential. 900 series engines (replaced 366 etc), used in U500 for example, have an even nicer 2 stage system: a turbo outlet flap valve and a Jake brake like setup in the cylinder head (it’s quiet however). I had my vehicle at a German Unimog dealer at 95000 miles and asked them to replace brake pads if any significant wear. They ended up not touching them.
 

quickdraw81

New member
I'm in the same boat, or should I say 'Doka' as you :) I went with a 1224AF Doka Firetruck, less capable than the Unimog off road, but more capable on road. Which I think I'll be spending more time on. I do have all 3 lockers/2sp transfer, so I think that will help.

While it was still in Germany, I had Mog-Tech modify the OM366LA engine for 300HP/700ftLbs. In the tuning, they also raised the rev limit to 2950. This was not for speed, but for getting up mountains. But with taller tires, the 65mph on the road will be nice.

I won't have it in the driveway for another couple weeks, so I'm on the very front end of the build. I am also planning on using the extended cab for not only more seating, but storage and an additional sleeping area if needed.

My goal is to keep the rig as short as possible, shooting for around 24' not counting spares/bike rack, which means a short habitat because of the Doka. To maximize the space, I'm actually thinking about using the back Doka door as the main entrance. It becomes the 'foyer' area, taking off shoes/coats there, then having a full sized door into the habitat as opposed to a crawl tunnel. This would save a ton of space in the interior of the habitat.

Without actual measuring yet, I'm thinking the box is going to be about 16'. I may build a composite box from Total Composites. (the quote for a kit was 16K, as I recall). But another idea I have that I'm investigating is a reefer unit. I've received a couple quotes so far. I'm hoping I can make that work as it would save a lot of labor.

I'll do the cab work, and do the build out of the box myself, farming out what I can't do myself. I don't have a huge budget so it's certainly not going to be a Bliss level build, but I want the full monty, including a clothes washer. And I know, as you pointed out, having that all built for me is going to be $$$.

Never heard of Mog-tech... I'll add them to the list.

Love the build ideas... especially the foyer idea. I'll look into that myself. I want to make the cab/camper feel like one space if possible. It looks like I can pull off the doka and 11-13 ft box I was hoping. If I open up to the second cab that would be tons of space and plenty of sleeping.

Saw the note on the s30... they're a bit of an addiction, eh? I've had two (so far) and have been itching for a 510 as long as I've known about them. My current one I went with the rb25 swap. Absolutely love it!
1650309167573.png1650309204675.png
 

Iain_U1250

Explorer
The link to the body builder handbook is correct, but might be difficult to get registered. I have a copy if you need one. This shows what can be cut out. The green bit needs to be moved replaced with two similar pillars either side of the cyan cut out.

Rear cab structure.jpg
I decided to extend the roof of my cab, but kept the original structure. The opening is the biggest MB allowed.

PICT1941.jpg
The problem with the big opening is sealing it from the noise - the transmission is directly underneath. This was my solution, which works well.
Unimog Photos-7007.jpg

There is a inner seal as well, which is quite big to allow for the approximate 400mm of flex you can get between the cab and camper. The little accordion rubbers just don't do it.


The OM366LA is the most powerful stock engine, but the block is the same as the OM352, just has a different head and stroker crank to take it out to 6 litres. All the extra power comes from the injection pump, injectors and the intercooler. You can get 300hp from a normal OM366 with a few modifications.

The UG100/8 comes from the newer model U4000/U5000s, I have one in mine, it just needs a manual conversion kit.
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
Never heard of Mog-tech... I'll add them to the list.

Love the build ideas... especially the foyer idea. I'll look into that myself. I want to make the cab/camper feel like one space if possible. It looks like I can pull off the doka and 11-13 ft box I was hoping. If I open up to the second cab that would be tons of space and plenty of sleeping.

Saw the note on the s30... they're a bit of an addiction, eh? I've had two (so far) and have been itching for a 510 as long as I've known about them. My current one I went with the rb25 swap. Absolutely love it!
View attachment 717749View attachment 717751
RB25!? Sweet!
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
Here is a pic of one of mine. Totally adjustable coil over, 5 way shocks, etc, etc. Ran 255's front 295's rear, lots of AutoX! The 5.0 dyno'd at 393HP. I use to embarrass some very expensive cars with it...
 

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