Ambulance Camper/ Expedition Rig Conversion FAQ

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
Before
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After
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$20 from Amazon. Happy with quality. Not sure about the plastic covers, but the connections are now solid.
I wasn’t able to find a reasonably priced end that would take all three heavy cables to the one + terminal.


It sure beats $300-500 for a replacement cable and half a day to install them. They'd also be useful for all sort's of other vehicles also.

Mine were from COROTC... now they seem to want $55 cdn or $15 usd. Different sellers seem to have a wide range of prices for products that look the same.
Save your money... the COROTC ones have failed and I’m still trying to get replacements or my money back for them.
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Try #2. Billet 6061 Aluminum. Much stronger design and able to fit up to 6 heavy cables on each terminal.
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Twice the price, but batteries and tows aren’t cheap so...

 

bgflyguy

Member
Someone had some questions about a ripped out 110 plug behind the drives seat. I dont have any answers, but maybe they were disconnecting an engine heater or something. I cant find the thread now, but I'll post a couple of pages from my book.
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billiebob

My Uncle drove a government issued Jeep in Europe
wow 1000 replies, but I know I'll have to read it all. I consider an ambulance the premier rig for winter overlanding and I intend to explore the Northwest Territories winter roads, especially the road thru Wrigley, Tulita, Norman Wells, Fort Good Hope and Tsighehchic to Inuvik and Tuktoyaktuk. Having flown over the Dempster I cannot imagine driving it. But yeah, winter road, driving on ice, very cool.

ice roads.jpg

I look at ambulances, the bigger ones on Freightliner or International chassis and I see something real common with northern commercial trucks which means mechanical services, even parts will be readily available, at Northern prices. Plus, ambulances come with incredible electrical systems, often AC and fabulous heaters. Serviceable at any northern shop they are a great choice North of 60. One day it'll happen.

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iggi

Ian
Hey Ken,

Resurrecting a very old post of yours. Just clarifying your final setup.
You have a standard width SRW front axle and then spacers on your DRW rear axle?

Thanks,
Ian

While i'm at it I'll share the evolution of my tire and rim combos.
I posted something similar in the sportsmibile rim and tire gallery, but thought the ambo FAQ would be a good spot as well

I know finding the right combo for a 4x4 van is a challenge. Even tougher for an ambo since you also have to decide SRW or DRW.

First
Regular q-van
285 75 r16
View attachment 308218

Ambo stock dually tires and rims.
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Next
37 12.5 r16.5 military goodyears on 12-bolt h1 rims
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The 37's worked well for about 2yrs but the road noise started to get to me on longer trips. Also they are really heavy I had fears of them destroying my front end parts slowly over time.

Next swapped DRW hubs to SRW
Put stock SRW tires and rims while waiting for a set of 35's
View attachment 308224

Finally current setup 35 12.5 r17 BFG AT KO2
ATX AX199 rim -12 offset

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So far the 35's are proving to be really nice!!
 

cjken

Explorer
Hey Ken,

Resurrecting a very old post of yours. Just clarifying your final setup.
You have a standard width SRW front axle and then spacers on your DRW rear axle?

Thanks,
Ian
So the current setup on my E350 mini-mod is SRW front hubs. Regular 17” rims. No spacers on rear.
If you zoom in on the pics below you can see about where the tires sit.

I have some 2.5” rear spacers if any one is looking, but you don’t need them if you run regular backspaced rims. I used them when I ran the 37” H1 setup which had 7” backspacing.

 

Kevanbulance

New member
Long time listener, first-time caller. I've got a 2007 Ford Leader Ambulance and am at a stop on the conversion. I'd like to remove the climate control unit in the cabin, but have no idea (or skill level) where to start. Also, is there a way to remove the hoses without draining the radiator? The unit is an ACC Climate Control model # 2209D0068. I've attached some photos for reference. The ambo is a type-2. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
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Attachments

Rebuilder

Observer
You can remove the heater hoses without draining the radiator although some antifreeze will come out of the heater core and hoses so have a 5 gallon bucket ready. You'll need a hose coupler to connect the two hoses to each other after you remove the heater. For the AC you'll need to have the whole system evacuated by an AC shop before disconnecting the lines. I'm not sure if you need to cap the AC lines or connect them to each other to get the cab AC working again though. Hopefully someone that knows will chime in because I'm at that stage and would like to know what to do.
 

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Kevanbulance

New member
I've decided to keep it. Moving it to the back of the van and ducting underneath the fixed bed back into the cabin. I'm sure I'll have more asinine questions for the thread as this build continues.
 
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