adventure teardrop build - skin for roof is just shy (60" to cover 60 1/2")

[NickySue]

hi all,
I am getting to the final stages of my teardrop build (5'x10') and have had my heart set on skinning the trailer with powdercoated aluminum.
I found a local source in Denver for 5'x12' for the roof - it is .032 (it is a little thinner than the walls which are .040, but I think it will work) . And after skinning the trailer with 1/8" luane, I am now at 60 1/2" inches wide.
The question is: With trim and butyl tape, will I be able to make the roof water proof with the skin 1/2" shorter (1/4" on each side) than the trailer width?

I attached a few photos :
- the gap pic: shows appx where the skin will end in relation to the trim in the worst case. The 60 1/2" is the worst case - which runs about half the length of the roof. The other half has a smaller gap (more like 60 1/4").



- the hole location pic: shows where the screw hole will be in the worst case. I plan to drill further from the leg edge of the trim to get better placement of the rivet. I don't have a ton of space, but I think I have enough. I should be able to fill some of the holes i am not using.


- the trailer width pic summarizes the width of the trailer.



Thanks for any help!
Cheers, Nicole

 

[Waygoner]

What are you plans to seal the luan? I think if it's sealed well you should have no problem. You could also run a thin bead of silicone to cover the gap too. I've been wondering if there is a better solution than the butyl tape. Maybe closed cell foam?

Where did you find the aluminum sheeting in Denver? Did you buy your other trim there? I just started a teardrop build and I will be needing a few things.

 

[opp]

If the screws are covered . Dose not rock to one side NO big deal

 

[flipmachine]

Rv tape that edge.. it's a tape that's like 1/16 thick. Could also apply sika 252 all along opening and then rv tape, then put molding

 

[NickySue]

What are you plans to seal the luan? I think if it's sealed well you should have no problem. You could also run a thin bead of silicone to cover the gap too. I've been wondering if there is a better solution than the butyl tape. Maybe closed cell foam?

Where did you find the aluminum sheeting in Denver? Did you buy your other trim there? I just started a teardrop build and I will be needing a few things.

Hey Waygoner,
I hadn't planned to seal the luan, but based on the responses I am thinking I will. I assumed the aluminum served that purpose? Ive been looking at Dicor lap sealant. From what I have read that goes on after the trim is secured with butyl tape under it to seal up the holes where the rivets go.

I picked up the aluminum this morning from Bob at Alreco out in Henderson, CO - they stock the 5x12 specifically for teardrop builds. I inquired about trim, and they do not have the roof trim with the insert, as show in the image in my original post. They do have 1x1 angle and 1/2 x1 and some flat bar stock (1/8"), they come in 16ft lengths. I'll probably end up getting most of my trim online, in 8ft sections.

 

[Waygoner]

Please keep us posted on your progress. I'd be interested in learning where you source your trim online.

 

[opp]

I assumed the aluminum

With many family members in RV repair . A lot of manufactures are use cheap inter ply wood under aluminum. Any water leak and the ply starts to fall a part. Before you can find the leak . .So any thing you do will help with a long life.

 

[Scoutman]

To answer your original question I think you're fine with the 1/4" gap per side. As long as that sheet is well under the trim piece you're fine. If you want some extra piece of mind I would do as @flipmachine mentioned and use RV tape on that edge to seal things before putting the trim on. One other thing I would do is make the holes in the Aluminum skin much larger than the screw that's going through the trim. That aluminum will expand and contract as temperatures fluctuate so you want to give that sheet some space to stretch.

I would not use silicone on anything. If you want to seal the trim to the skin, use the silkaflex or dicor. I prefer the dicor self leveling for things like roof vents and places where you can goop it on and let it settle out. The silka is probably better for the other applications.

I did some major repairs to a truck camper a few years ago and documented it here (link in signature). I was using Filon as my roof skin but a lot of the contstruction/repair techniques still apply. Roof repair is somewhere mid thread.