Accessory system wired hot versus ignition-controlled

wheelsee

New member
Struggling with wiring a camper shell either hot off the primary battery or switched through the ignition.

Current plan is to run 2ga wire through a 50-amp marine circuit breaker off the primary battery back to the camper shell allowing 12-volt cooler and USB-charging station and LED lights. The concern of battery-drain is handled with a lithium battery jump-pack. We rarely go more than 24-hours without starting the truck for travel.

Part of me says to run the circuit through an ignition-controlled switch to protect primary battery.

Long-term plan with this would be to add a LiFePO4 battery. Would also add a battery-tender (120-v/solar) to keep primary battery charged when around 120-volt or solar.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Only the engine + navigation stuff, Starter battery stuff should be IGN.

Add the solenoid / DCDC connection to House bank, if the alternator is your **only** energy source off grid.

If you add solar and/or a genset, then that "combiner" (ACR or DCDC) should be two-way voltage sensing, so any source going live on either side keeps the connection closed, soon as House loads bring voltage down

then the two circuits get isolated from each other.
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
Victron Smart Battery Protect on a always hot circuit if you dont have a dual battery setup, but a dual battery would be the best way.. you say 12v cooler and not compressor fridge, so I'm thinking your power loads are going to be significantly higher than you are planning on as those 12 coolers pretty much require an engine running to feed them..

On a single battery needing to start I'd have the battery protect cut off at like 12.2-12.4v.. battery wont drain that much before it drops the loads.. thats where I have my dashcam and ham radio drop out off my starter battery.
 

wheelsee

New member
These are my coolers -



 

Buddha.

Finally in expo white.
These are my coolers -



When people say electric cooler they’re usually referring to the cheap power hungry units.
Your units are true refrigerator/ freezer and are much better and more efficient.
 

wheelsee

New member
I ended up with a Blue Sea System low-voltage disconnect (had higher ratings) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GZOP53M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Question: Does this need to go next to the battery or can it be placed 15' away but just upstream of my accessory fuse block (another Blue Seas System - https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...TE6JFPC1SFJ&psc=1&refRID=DCDPVQT6ETE6JFPC1SFJ )

I already have a circuit breaker about a foot from the positive terminal on the primary battery - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F76VJKQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

wheelsee

New member
^^^^^^

THIS (all the replies) is what makes this forum VALUABLE!!

Thanks for all the replies!
 
Last edited:

wheelsee

New member
Results - spent the weekend with Dometic CF35 plugged in. Overnight, the battery only dropped down to 12.6 volts. Started up easily.
 
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