Ac power system in camper

Stitebunny

Adventurer
I am in the phase where I need to research and learn about 120v systems in a camper.
I will have a very basic system but have a few questions.
The main purpose of it will be to power my on board battery charger. A simple power max brand power supply/charger.
Everything is 12 volt. Propane heater, fridge, lights, and that’s about it.

I have typically ran an extension cord through the rear door to plug it in.
I would like to expand on this and use a proper shore power pass through plug.
I am planning on a 15 amp plug due to the small requirements I have.

The battery charger and maybe 2 outlets in the van. These will be used for maybe a heater in the winter at a ski area. Or a blender at a campground or whatever. No regular use of the outlets typically.

I was thinking of installing a small breaker box with a circuit for the charger and one for the other outlets.

But I’m wondering if that is really needed. I realize it would be much more professional, but is it any safer or better than say a household surge protector and cords or hardwired otherwise?

If a breaker box is recommended, is household solid wire suitable or stranded wire? I’ve read conflicting things.

How are your 120ac systems set up and what can you tell me about them and how I might want to set mine up?
Thanks
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
Since your wanting to run a space heater on the outlets, do breakers.. at least wire up the external plug for 20A w/20A main breaker.. then two 15A sub circuits for converter/outlets.. this will afford you the ability to perhaps plug into a 30A outlet at a campsite (w/adapter) and run both space heater and battery charger together without overloading your main circuit.. otherwise you'll have to remember to turn off the AC converter when you use a heater as those things typically consume a full 15A circuit all on their own.. and with a circuit box you just flip the breaker for the converter when you cant afford both.

I use solid wire in conduit just fine.. but routing that in a van may be hard so feel free to use flexible, just make sure everything secured solid.. many AC wiring receptacles and couplers may only be designed for rigid copper, so keep that in mind..
 

Stitebunny

Adventurer
Thank you both for the ideas and tips. That pretty much covers both ends of the spectrum!
If I went with stranded wire and outlets, (Duplex receptacles) would it be okay to use ring terminals on the wires, and outlets with screw connections?
Also, if I go the route of breakers, can you lead me to a source for a small breaker box?
I think I saw a 4 breaker unit somewhere that should possibly work. Typical residential style I think.
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
trying to shove some braided cable into one of those blind clamps is easier said than done, mebe if you tinned em w/some solder first.. otherwise I'd use the screw terminal type with forks as long as it was in a proper junction box and you got a good crimper.
 

Alloy

Well-known member
I've used stranded wire for AC in marine applications but alway used solid in RVs. I don't know of any RV mfg. that uses stranded wire for the 15A or 20A AC circuits .

The issues I've found with AC wiring are with connections, wire chafing and lack of protection from sharp edges. I've never seen solid wire break in a RV but I have seen it break from vibration on equipment in factories.

Another option is pin terminals rated for 600VAC.....but.....the greater the number of connection the greater the chance of failure

1595565889027.png

Make sure to connect the receptacles through one GFCI. If you want to go overboard then use CAFCI breakers and GFCI receptacles
 
Last edited:

Alloy

Well-known member
Its strange. I never seen braided wire used other than as shielding conductor, coax cable for example. Or as specialised bonding jumpers.
But frequently hear people mention its use.

This is what we used on the boats/ships. Cable with the "rubber" jacket was for wet locations.

1595613865198.png
 

Alloy

Well-known member
RVs dont vibrate with amplitude or frequency as factory machines. If they did, they would fall apart after a few hundred miles.
Provided wiring is secured to not flop about as the vehicle moves, solid conductor RV wiring is suitable.

Every RV I've looked at would fail inception for not having wire secured properly.

....thinking about it the last Motorhome I looked at had the wire for the AC laying on the 1/8" Luan so a screw or staple could be driven into the wire.
 

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