WOW!I put the opening toward the driver side in case someone tries to break into it while I am at a stop light. This way I have a clear center mass shot versus trying to shoot over the trailer and that jacking up my field of fire. If I knew I was going to have a passenger with me each time then having it open from the passenger side would be fine because it would be easy to outflank the person and have crossing fields of fire.
Other than that, No, no real reason.
I am getting ready to put my shocks in the same orientation/ location. My lid is heavy to. Do you get full lift assist open to close?Installed the gas springs today. 200 pounds is a little too much, but I think I can deal with it. The top opens easily but pulling it closed takes a little effort.
I'll see how it goes and maybe down grade to 150 pound springs in the future. I also started on making the rear supports for the rack. Once finished, these will be welded to the rear cross member to support the foundation for the telescoping rack.
That's the only way to go in my opinion. 2x3 3/16 is the best strength to weight ratio for a trailer frame. A lot of folks waste time messing with the flimsy and worn out frames when a new one can be built stronger and faster.After trying to save and improve the original frame I finally gave up.
Time for a do-over.
Starting off with 2x3 3/16 wall tube.
Ditching the Pintle Hitch setup up and going with the Max Coupler.
Played with my dimple-die set on the gussets, worked out okay.
Had some time this week to make a little headway.