A Little Different M416 Trailer Build

NivekD

Roaming ROF
I put the opening toward the driver side in case someone tries to break into it while I am at a stop light. This way I have a clear center mass shot versus trying to shoot over the trailer and that jacking up my field of fire. If I knew I was going to have a passenger with me each time then having it open from the passenger side would be fine because it would be easy to outflank the person and have crossing fields of fire.
Other than that, No, no real reason.
WOW!
 

JRJKU

Observer
With the lock they are not getting to far. I am doing a much simpler version of your build. Yours looks very good. Wish I had those welding skills.


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JRJKU

Observer
Installed the gas springs today. 200 pounds is a little too much, but I think I can deal with it. The top opens easily but pulling it closed takes a little effort.
I'll see how it goes and maybe down grade to 150 pound springs in the future. I also started on making the rear supports for the rack. Once finished, these will be welded to the rear cross member to support the foundation for the telescoping rack.
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I am getting ready to put my shocks in the same orientation/ location. My lid is heavy to. Do you get full lift assist open to close?

Our first attempt allowed the lid to slam as we didn't have the full compression of the shock. (B/c were amateurs and have never done this).

Your position is our next attempt but the calculator in the topic shows a different type of placement.


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Copasspupil

Observer
Looks very good Brother. Keep it up. I need to swing down 410 by sometime when both of ours are done. I went to the DOL for the state paperwork so I head to the inspection soon.
 

PacificNorthWestJeeper

Blissfully Lost
I have a plan for my bump stops but out of curiosity does anyone out there have pics of a m416 with 3,500# axles with a spring over that shows how they/you did your bump stop setup?
Googled it, but only saw setups where the spring was under the axle.
 

highlandercj-7

Explorer
After trying to save and improve the original frame I finally gave up.
Time for a do-over.
Starting off with 2x3 3/16 wall tube.
Ditching the Pintle Hitch setup up and going with the Max Coupler.
Played with my dimple-die set on the gussets, worked out okay.
Had some time this week to make a little headway.
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That's the only way to go in my opinion. 2x3 3/16 is the best strength to weight ratio for a trailer frame. A lot of folks waste time messing with the flimsy and worn out frames when a new one can be built stronger and faster.
 
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