Having enjoyed so many tales of advanterous overland trips I would like to share with you letters we send to our friends at home during our wonderful trip through Southern Africa (South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique. We travelled in a custom build Ford Transit 4wd rv. Originally we wanted to drive from Germany (were my wife and I live part of the year, in summer we live in Alberta, Canada) via Egypt and East Africa to the Cape of Good Hope. Because of the war in Syria and the unsettled situation in Libya we could not get to Egypt. When we discovered that every 2 weeks a roro ferry travels from Germany to Port Elisabeth in South Africa we decided to ship the truck to SA and explore only countries we felt were safe. The first 4 months we spent in South Africa and Namibia. After a break which we spent in Germany and Canada we returned to Namibia where we had left our truck and continued our trip. If you like you can accompany us on our trip which was a lot of fun without any significant problem.
The first 6 weeks in South Africa
January 12, 2012, we’re in South Africa since more than 6 weeks and I think, it is time for a first summery in English. A summary of first impressions of a country that is fascinating and confusing at the same time.
We arrived in Port Elizabeth (PE) early December, at the same time as our car, our “Reisephant II”, our “travelling elephant” or Olifant as they call them here. The station manager of the shipping company did an excellent job and we had our car out of customs without any delay. Other people we met near Cape Town waited more than 2 weeks (of their 5 week vacation) to get going. We drove west to Cape Town, enjoying the fascinating landscape of the “Little Caroo” region (with its high mountain ridges and exciting gravel road passes) which runs parallel to coast line and the wine growing region of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek just one hour outside of Cape Town. We enjoyed the liveliness and mixed culture of this big city and loved the Cape Region with its special eco system (Atlantic meets Indian Ocean). On our way back to PE we stayed along the Garden Route and took advantage of the touristic infrastructure along the coast. A day hike in the Tsitsikamma NP will stay in our memory for a long time not only for the horrific sunburn we got, but as well for the sighting of dolphins and the size of the waves crushing on shore. Our son Phil joined us in PE flying in from Canada’s west coast. Together we enjoyed more than 150 Elephants taking their morning bath in the Addo Elephant NP, took pictures of big turtles, jackals and many more creatures crossing our roads in that park. Another thing we came along was potholes! Potholes out of nowhere, potholes all across the road and potholes “in the progress of repair” as one sign stated somewhere in the middle of nowhere. We got used to them as well as to the many people who seem to be on the move from point A to point B in this country – mainly on foot, carrying their shopping, their laundry or their school books on their heads (mostly women), or just going to fetch water from one of the many hand pumps in their Zulu-villages. Another mode of transport are minibuses, loaded with people and bags, which stop at nearly every turn-off – a thing we have to consider while driving through this pretty and busy country –no day dreaming, please.
After a memorable shopping experience in the all black town of Bergville, KZN (we were the only white people in the supermarket clogged with Africans getting ready for their family reunions African Style), we celebrated Christmas in one of the very quiet nature camps in the Drakensberge NP. There we enjoyed a guided walk to visit some interesting bushman cave paintings, dating back up to 20.000 thousand years. Who knows how many other sites still lay hidden in these impressive mountain range. It rained every night (during the day the weather was mostly sunny), Phil’s tent suffered a bit, so we decided to escape to the coast – yes, it was hot there, hot and humid and peak season! So the campgrounds were packed with large family tents, big people with healthy appetites and lots of fishing rods in their luggage. Many people were interested in our car, our journey; we got good advice where to go as well as which areas to avoid. We had good discussions and learned a bit more about life in South Africa every time.
The three of us spent nearly one week in St. Lucia, 1 hour north of Richards Bay, doing “game drives” in several National Parks (Hluhluwe, Imfolozi and Simangalosi Wetland/Camp Vidal). Feel free to have a look at the wild life gallery on our homepage (www.reisephant.blogspot.com). I can’t count all the different kind of antelopes, butterflies and beautiful birds anymore! The highlight was a night drive on the beach to find a leatherback turtle coming on shore for her motherly duty of laying more than 200 eggs.
Our daughter Pascale joined us for 2 days after spending 4 weeks as a volunteer in a “nearby” Game Reserve. It was a very special family reunion! After both kids had gone on with their lives (Pascale touring Namibia with a group, Phil back to university and skiing), we took a day off; we visited UShaka-Marine World with its well-done aquarium, fun-park and amazing beaches, packed with folks from Durban. It was Sunday and a good day to drive through Durban city centre. We only got a glimpse of the many different cultures living in this important industrial town.- May be next time we’ll park the camper somewhere safe and guarded to dive into this buzzing centre of activities.
It is hard to believe, that this is the same country as 100 km north, were people life in clay huts without running water, outside toilets and no work except the production of handicrafts by the women staying behind with their little children, while many men look for work in the big cities. Internet in the north of SA is also difficult to find and very slow.
Driving along the Battlefield Route and the Midlands of KwaZuluNatal, we learned more about the historical problems of this country, Zulus fighting Dutch Settlers, Dutch Settlers fighting British troops, migration movements, etc. We spent one afternoon at Elandsberg Farm, the Homestead of previously German farmers, who now make a living by providing jobs for several hundred Zulu families which produce handicrafts and exporting them. Bowls, plates, mats made from telephone wires (I fell in love with the colors and designs!!), as well as beaded embroideries – cushions, placemats, slippers- Zulu women think in round patterns and they are able to create stunning handicrafts. Things you might find in the museum shops in Cape Town, as well as in London, Paris or NYC, just have a look!
“Do you have a reservation?” asked the Gate keeper of Ithala Game Reserve a few days later. We didn’t and we didn’t need one, being practically the only guests there after South Africa had gone back to work and school and most of the international tourists, too. We found a Black Rhino with a baby and some other rare antelopes with young ones in this very special park. It offers fantastic mountain viewing, deep gorges and plenty of wildlife to observe – but difficult roads, unsuitable for caravans in tow.
After all the driving of the past weeks, we felt the need to stretch our legs once more and came across the description of a Nature Reserve - in Swaziland! And here we are, in a tiny little country with high mountains in the west, covered with dense forest. If it were not for the black people crossing our way, we could be anywhere in Europe, the temperatures being in the mid 20ies, cool nights and English spoken with hardly any accent. We enjoyed a day of gliding over the tree tops on a Canopy Tour just like in Costa Rica, three years ago. Meeting three teachers and NGO-workers we learned, that Swaziland is one of the poorest countries in the world, punished with a very high unemployment rate and level if HIV infections and a very uncertain outlook for the future. We feel very sorry, because the people we met, were so very friendly, helpful and faithful in their religious believe and their King.
After one more day in a little paradise called www.PhophonyaFallsLodge.co.sz,(look it up!) we’ll carry on to yet another highlight of this journey – Kruger National Park.
The first 6 weeks in South Africa
January 12, 2012, we’re in South Africa since more than 6 weeks and I think, it is time for a first summery in English. A summary of first impressions of a country that is fascinating and confusing at the same time.
We arrived in Port Elizabeth (PE) early December, at the same time as our car, our “Reisephant II”, our “travelling elephant” or Olifant as they call them here. The station manager of the shipping company did an excellent job and we had our car out of customs without any delay. Other people we met near Cape Town waited more than 2 weeks (of their 5 week vacation) to get going. We drove west to Cape Town, enjoying the fascinating landscape of the “Little Caroo” region (with its high mountain ridges and exciting gravel road passes) which runs parallel to coast line and the wine growing region of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek just one hour outside of Cape Town. We enjoyed the liveliness and mixed culture of this big city and loved the Cape Region with its special eco system (Atlantic meets Indian Ocean). On our way back to PE we stayed along the Garden Route and took advantage of the touristic infrastructure along the coast. A day hike in the Tsitsikamma NP will stay in our memory for a long time not only for the horrific sunburn we got, but as well for the sighting of dolphins and the size of the waves crushing on shore. Our son Phil joined us in PE flying in from Canada’s west coast. Together we enjoyed more than 150 Elephants taking their morning bath in the Addo Elephant NP, took pictures of big turtles, jackals and many more creatures crossing our roads in that park. Another thing we came along was potholes! Potholes out of nowhere, potholes all across the road and potholes “in the progress of repair” as one sign stated somewhere in the middle of nowhere. We got used to them as well as to the many people who seem to be on the move from point A to point B in this country – mainly on foot, carrying their shopping, their laundry or their school books on their heads (mostly women), or just going to fetch water from one of the many hand pumps in their Zulu-villages. Another mode of transport are minibuses, loaded with people and bags, which stop at nearly every turn-off – a thing we have to consider while driving through this pretty and busy country –no day dreaming, please.
After a memorable shopping experience in the all black town of Bergville, KZN (we were the only white people in the supermarket clogged with Africans getting ready for their family reunions African Style), we celebrated Christmas in one of the very quiet nature camps in the Drakensberge NP. There we enjoyed a guided walk to visit some interesting bushman cave paintings, dating back up to 20.000 thousand years. Who knows how many other sites still lay hidden in these impressive mountain range. It rained every night (during the day the weather was mostly sunny), Phil’s tent suffered a bit, so we decided to escape to the coast – yes, it was hot there, hot and humid and peak season! So the campgrounds were packed with large family tents, big people with healthy appetites and lots of fishing rods in their luggage. Many people were interested in our car, our journey; we got good advice where to go as well as which areas to avoid. We had good discussions and learned a bit more about life in South Africa every time.
The three of us spent nearly one week in St. Lucia, 1 hour north of Richards Bay, doing “game drives” in several National Parks (Hluhluwe, Imfolozi and Simangalosi Wetland/Camp Vidal). Feel free to have a look at the wild life gallery on our homepage (www.reisephant.blogspot.com). I can’t count all the different kind of antelopes, butterflies and beautiful birds anymore! The highlight was a night drive on the beach to find a leatherback turtle coming on shore for her motherly duty of laying more than 200 eggs.
Our daughter Pascale joined us for 2 days after spending 4 weeks as a volunteer in a “nearby” Game Reserve. It was a very special family reunion! After both kids had gone on with their lives (Pascale touring Namibia with a group, Phil back to university and skiing), we took a day off; we visited UShaka-Marine World with its well-done aquarium, fun-park and amazing beaches, packed with folks from Durban. It was Sunday and a good day to drive through Durban city centre. We only got a glimpse of the many different cultures living in this important industrial town.- May be next time we’ll park the camper somewhere safe and guarded to dive into this buzzing centre of activities.
It is hard to believe, that this is the same country as 100 km north, were people life in clay huts without running water, outside toilets and no work except the production of handicrafts by the women staying behind with their little children, while many men look for work in the big cities. Internet in the north of SA is also difficult to find and very slow.
Driving along the Battlefield Route and the Midlands of KwaZuluNatal, we learned more about the historical problems of this country, Zulus fighting Dutch Settlers, Dutch Settlers fighting British troops, migration movements, etc. We spent one afternoon at Elandsberg Farm, the Homestead of previously German farmers, who now make a living by providing jobs for several hundred Zulu families which produce handicrafts and exporting them. Bowls, plates, mats made from telephone wires (I fell in love with the colors and designs!!), as well as beaded embroideries – cushions, placemats, slippers- Zulu women think in round patterns and they are able to create stunning handicrafts. Things you might find in the museum shops in Cape Town, as well as in London, Paris or NYC, just have a look!
“Do you have a reservation?” asked the Gate keeper of Ithala Game Reserve a few days later. We didn’t and we didn’t need one, being practically the only guests there after South Africa had gone back to work and school and most of the international tourists, too. We found a Black Rhino with a baby and some other rare antelopes with young ones in this very special park. It offers fantastic mountain viewing, deep gorges and plenty of wildlife to observe – but difficult roads, unsuitable for caravans in tow.
After all the driving of the past weeks, we felt the need to stretch our legs once more and came across the description of a Nature Reserve - in Swaziland! And here we are, in a tiny little country with high mountains in the west, covered with dense forest. If it were not for the black people crossing our way, we could be anywhere in Europe, the temperatures being in the mid 20ies, cool nights and English spoken with hardly any accent. We enjoyed a day of gliding over the tree tops on a Canopy Tour just like in Costa Rica, three years ago. Meeting three teachers and NGO-workers we learned, that Swaziland is one of the poorest countries in the world, punished with a very high unemployment rate and level if HIV infections and a very uncertain outlook for the future. We feel very sorry, because the people we met, were so very friendly, helpful and faithful in their religious believe and their King.
After one more day in a little paradise called www.PhophonyaFallsLodge.co.sz,(look it up!) we’ll carry on to yet another highlight of this journey – Kruger National Park.
). There we met an Australian couple, who're actually sailing around the globe on a catamaran. They took a short break for a change of scenery in Namibia, while their ship was moored in Walvis Bay. We enjoyed our evening talks and promise to keep in touch with Gene and Bill.
