89 GEN1 LWB Introduction from Charlotte, NC

[chadzeilenga]

I installed a new oil pressure sensor tonight (MD092660) cause gage was dead on the cluster. The PO has installed a non-OEM unit,
Following install, gage still dead, so next step is to check the connection at gage pod.

Also did the plugs and wires tonight. I was surprised how high the compression was after 200k mi. Warm engine @ WOT. Plugs are dirty, possibly from the CEL I’ve had on. Should have my AC temp sensor tomorrow.

I'd like to replace the PS fluid. the FSM seems pretty straight forward, but any thoughts regarding the "High Tension Cable" in the section from FSM 19-11

 

[chadzeilenga]

I replaced the AC temp sensor tonight with OEM unit, thought that would solve my CEL, but need to do some more investigation, as it’s still on. I have an analog multimeter on my list unless there is a better way.

With new plugs and wires, runs much smoother, but still a slightly rough idle.

Spent the rest of the night drain and refilling cooling system. I ran some Blue Devil in system for about a week and after 3rd drain and fill with distilled water this is what I’ve got...

Looks like I’ve got a way to go!


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[chadzeilenga]

Hi All,
today was a confusing day with the Montero. I started out this morning planning to drive it after my drain & fills of the coolant system the previous night. When I tried to start the engine wouldn't even turn over. It wasn't a "click" like you get with a bad starter, it almost sounded like the starter was encountering resistance that it couldn't overcome. When I got home, I measured 12.6V on the battery. I placed a trickle charger on it and brought up to ~14.5V. Tried to start it a few times and nothing, just kept acting like it was "bound" up. I tapped on the starter casing with a rubber mallet and still nothing. My next step was to check and see if engine was free, since it was acting like it was seized. I was able to turn over the engine manually at the crank bolt without too much difficulty. I then went to try and start again and it started right up...? I've read through the FSM troubleshooting and can't seem to find the source of this issue, could it be in the ignition switch? Since then, It hasn't replicated the issue. If anyone has any ideas I'd like to hear.

Once I got it running, I proceeded to let it idle for a while and bleed out any additional air. The idle is a tad rough, but with any throttle it smoothes out right away. I still have to check the CEL, but need to pick some alligator clips up to catch the terminal on diagnostic plug.

Lastly, I'm starting to wonder if the PO really fixed the HG for good or not. I took it out for a drive tonight and I could see a slight amount of smoke in the headlights of the car behind me and it would get in my lights when I would come to a stop. Doesn't appear to smell like oil and since I'm running straight water to clean out cooling system, I don't smell the "sweet" smell. I've also noticed that the coolant is expanding to the overflow bottle, but isn't drawing it back in when cold, maybe this is unrelated. What are the steps to check for a failed headgasket on these 6G72 engines, is it a leakdown test? There is a slight amount of pressure that relieves itself when I pull the radiator cap with system cold.

Thanks,
Chad

 

[mudraider]

"Thoughts on the high tension cable." That's just the coil wire that runs to the distributor. If you START it, instead of just CRANKING it, it will just whip up an air in the system.
Starting issue could be a voltage drop from the ignition switch. A simple fix from the 4X4Wire days was to put in a Ford starter solenoid. Run your ignition switch wire to activate it, then run a good 12v right off the battery, to the Ford solenoid, then to the Mitsubishi solenoid.
CEL can be checked with an old analog ohmmeter. I think you got that figured out, that's what the alligator clips were for, right?
Truck smoking is probly VSS, or valve stem seals. Common Mitsu problem, replace the 28yo ones with some new ones, that should go away.
Radiator/head gasket concerns. Doesn't sound like the coolant is turning milky. That's a great sign. Are you losing any radiator fluid. Great looking truck, if'n you're on Facebook check out Mitsubishi Monteros USA, pretty good active group of Triple Diamond enthusiasts there.

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[chadzeilenga]

"Thoughts on the high tension cable." That's just the coil wire that runs to the distributor. If you START it, instead of just CRANKING it, it will just whip up an air in the system.
Starting issue could be a voltage drop from the ignition switch. A simple fix from the 4X4Wire days was to put in a Ford starter solenoid. Run your ignition switch wire to activate it, then run a good 12v right off the battery, to the Ford solenoid, then to the Mitsubishi solenoid.
CEL can be checked with an old analog ohmmeter. I think you got that figured out, that's what the alligator clips were for, right?
Truck smoking is probly VSS, or valve stem seals. Common Mitsu problem, replace the 28yo ones with some new ones, that should go away.
Radiator/head gasket concerns. Doesn't sound like the coolant is turning milky. That's a great sign. Are you losing any radiator fluid. Great looking truck, if'n you're on Facebook check out Mitsubishi Monteros USA, pretty good active group of Triple Diamond enthusiasts there.

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Hi,
thanks for all of the insight. It is much appreciated.
So remove the coil wire so the vehicle doesn't "start" while trying to pump out the old fluid and just cranks it out. Makes sense to me. I couldn't figure that one out from the FSM.
Following some late-night reading on 4x4, I'm wondering if my no-start is related to the inhibitor switch. Seems that they can loose contact. Started right up this morning...of course. I'll read up on that Ford solenoid upgrade.
I'm going to try and pick up one of those OBD2 adapters for the Mitsubishi I've seen on eBay, but still need the alligator clips to read my codes.
The VSS are accessible with the heads on? I'll have to read up on those and add to the list when I do my injectors as I'll be almost there.
No milky oil or coolant, so yes that is good. Since I've done so many drain & fills on the radiator, I probably should just drive for a while and monitor. It is holding pressure when I check it cold which I think is a good sign.

Again, thanks for the input and I hope that my chronicle is at least entertaining to the experienced guys on here.

 

[mudraider]

There is absolutely no need for an OBD2 reader. None.

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[mudraider]

Another thing that would probly be helpful, is mitsubishilinks.com On that website is Factory Mitsubishi manuals of all the trucks. There is a manual in the lists called the Driveability Manual. Check that one out, it tells you step by step procedures on troubleshooting.

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[chadzeilenga]

Hi Mud,
I have those pages from the FSM for the MPI system and was going to reference once I read the sweeps of my analog volt meter, but will definitely check out the Driveability Manual, must not have seen that one yet.

Is there any data that can be seen with this OBD2 to 12PIN Mitsubishi adapter? I figured at $10 it was worth a try to see any of the data from the engine like coolant temp? With only a few wires going to the connector, I doubt that there is much data there.

 

[chadzeilenga]

So, I spent some time on coolant system tonight. I hooked up a hose to the existing connection that was spliced into one of the heater hoses. I disconnected lower radiator hose and ran some fluid at about 1/4 flow of the hose capacity until it was coming out clear.

Then I reconnected the lower rad hose to the rad and back flushed water up through radiator for a good 20 min. Water was very clear coming out.

Closed up system and once thermostat opened it was a rusty cloud coming through. I probably should back flush a few more times, but I’m wondering if there is anything stronger than the Blue Devil that is safe for the components in system?

Is there anything specific for removing rust from cooling system?


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[chadzeilenga]

I pulled the Oil Pressure Gage tonight and checked resistance 49 ohm vs 50 in the FSM. Likely that isn't my issue, so it must be something in the wiring between the two.

I also checked the resistance of the voltage meter. I measured 341 ohm, which is outside of the 380-460, Should I shop around for a replacement? How much of a deviation is this anyways?

I pulled my CEL code and came up with a #22 (2 Long Pulses & 2 Short Pulses), which is a crank position sensor. The manual describes a dirty fast-idling air valve, but I can't seem to find reference that to anywhere else in MPI manual or in the engine sections of FSM. The symptoms I am having are a low weak idle when first started (feather gas while cranking) and I also get an occasional miss/rough idle when in gear. Not sure yet if 2 are related.

 

[chadzeilenga]

Another update:
I pulled the IACV and cleaned it off:

Dirty


Clean

Also cleaned out the well that it fit into. Ordered a TB gasket so I can pull that and clean from the other end. Seemed to start better after I did this.

While rooting around regarding the #22 fault code, I killed my temp gauge by damaging the harness wire at the sensor end. I'm not sure the approach I'm going to take here, will try to splice a good end on as the whole harness is pretty long and involved to replace.

I installed an OEM Cap & Rotor and the idle miss is gone. The cap contacts had quite a bit of build-up on them. Noticed my o-ring is cracked, so a new one on order as well.

Since I have done at least 10 drain & fills of the coolant system and have also back-flushed water from hose at heater-core connection and am still getting a fair amount of rust in the system, I did some research and am starting on the Sulphamic - Oxalic - Washing Soda flush process. I read up on this a bit online and have done the first part tonight:
- Back-flushed with water until clear.
- Filled system up with a 16oz Sulphamic Acid / 2 gallons water mixture, bled out air and ran for ~2hrs. Following a cool-down I drained and back-flushed system. Noticed a significant change in the surface of the fins in the radiator.

- Next step is to do the same with an equal solution of Oxalic Acid to remove the rust.


I'll do this on Sunday and run for a good 2-3hrs followed by a flush and run with Washing Soda to neutralize any acids and then a fill with distilled water.

This should clean out everything in preparation for an original radiator that I'm working on getting recored to a 3-row.

 

[chadzeilenga]

Stubborn success!

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[chadzeilenga]

I think I solved more problems than I created for once...!

The Sulphamic/Oxalic/Washing Soda Flush had fantastic results. The inside of block is looking very clean and doesn’t have the rusty buildup anymore. I installed an OEM thermostat, refilled with straight distilled and now am searching for an OEM radiator.

I fixed all of my temp sensor harness ends for now. It looks like a tight bend radius combined with poor insulation and damage from previous HG were too much for these. All are taped up and routed as best as possible. I would like to find a factory harness I can splice into mine since some of the wires are too short to make a smooth bend.

Now that all of my temp sensors are plugged in, the CEL is off.

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[chadzeilenga]

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[JAVYPRO]

Nice truck, I love my Gen 1s too. Judgung by the pic you have a plastic after market radiator? I had ordered a new radiator and to my surprise it was plastic so I returned it and got mine fixed.

When I did the head gasket on my 1990 I removed a bolt that is on the side of the block and that way I got all the old coolant/ antifreeze that lingers inside. Next time I am going to try that Sulphamic - Oxalic - Washing Soda flush.

Javy