BajaSurfRig
Active member
Make sure to replace the lower ball joints with OEM ones right away.
When you hit the power mode button in the center console, all the windows should go down to prevent them from getting blown out from the surge. This feature often fails, and is often overlooked during a pre-purchase inspection.
Can you elaborate? Never heard of this. /hijack
Very solid advice.
I wasn’t aware axle seals were that much $$. I think I paid $800 for rear bearings and seals back in 04-05 timeframe while trying to chase a weird him from the axle.
The lower ball joint will indeed show excessive play with a pry bar between the control arm and joint - while the front end is in the air. Also Denso replacement radiators from Amazon have shown to be jut as good as the originals. A trans cooler is a benefit but is not needed.If the price is good and it isn’t a rust bucket buy it, the rest is just parts as long as you are mechanically inclined enough to do the repairs yourself. I have three of them and love them all. The lower ball joints are not really a “weak” point but are typically overlooked because they’re under tension and don’t make noise or show play like a normal joint so if you don’t know how to check them they’ll eventually fail and fold a wheel under your truck! The jobber stuff doesn’t last so go OEM. Rad’s and steering racks can be swapped with jobber stuff, just go with a separate trans cooler to be sure of no “milkshake”. Wheel bearings and axle seals are easy peasy if you have access to a decent press. Timing belt and water pump, idler pulleys etc if over 150k.... the rest is really just reg maintenance stuff. Have fun!
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The lower ball joint will indeed show excessive play with a pry bar between the control arm and joint - while the front end is in the air. Also Denso replacement radiators from Amazon have shown to be jut as good as the originals. A trans cooler is a benefit but is not needed.
No you are still incorrect - On a hoist is the best possible way to inspect them, as stated, with a pry bar between the ball joint bolts and control arm. If jacked up on control arm you are loading the suspension and will not see play....yes, I totally agree you can check it like that if you are supporting the weight of the vehicle from the lower control arm, like with a floor jack and not letting the control arm just hang as when raised on a hoist. I also agree that there’s no worries running jobber rads, I have used them successfully in all three of my own 3rd gen’s.... running a separate trans cooler is merely an easy way to avoid any possibility of the dreaded “milkshake” if it’s a worry.
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No you are still incorrect - On a hoist is the best possible way to inspect them, as stated, with a pry bar between the ball joint bolts and control arm. If jacked up on control arm you are loading the suspension and will not see play