241OR Ruby Tcase conversion, input needed

input as in advice, as well as the actual input.
some years ago, I came across a broken t case from an automatic rubicon.
typical, in that the front case was shattered at the output bearing.
so, this summer I got a new case half from Mopar.

now, I have not a transmission on the ground to fit this to, but it looks like, the auto Tcase,
will not mate to our auto transmissions.
this is a problem.
it appears the auto uses a different front bearing retainer, and input shaft from yhe manual Tcase.
that what it appears to me .
today I was at six states, a resident expert and I went through all the possibilities, nothing works.
this T case is such an odd duck, that they dont have access to parts list.

so, does anyone have experience in mating an auto to an auto Tcase?
 

Kmrtnsn

Explorer
What year Jeep do you have and what year was the transfer case pulled from? The automatic transmission changed in 2012.
 
the Tcase came from a 2003 rubicon, as i remember it.

What changed in 2012?
the transmission that mated to this Tcase was a NAG1 or w580 series. does that help?
id love th have that transmission. by all accounts its a dandy. but...no stand alone controller that works.
 

Toasty

Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
I've only put manual trans NP241OR into Monteros, the auto has different splines.
 
u will for sure hear about my adventures of putting an auto 241 in.
I suspect I will be changing bearing retainer and input shaft or machining a spud shaft to connect the two, which is the plausible solution...if the retainer will mate to the rear of the aisin....OY.
 
at this time, an auto appears to be some degree of trouble.
if u find a ruby , at all grab it. these can be converted to manual, at a cost.
it seems , or at least for me was a reality that I could buy a front case half new, which I could not do for some years as magna, NP, NV was not casting them.
the front case generally took a beating when the jeep owner, failed to maintain the clumsy front drive shaft. the joint freezes and takes out the front case, or both front and back cases.the rear case is the common and cheap 243.
the front-rare as h**l and expensive.
it appears the front bearing retainer, and input are dramatically different on the auto over the manual.
the manual being the unit that bolts up to our transmissions.
but they are crazy expensive to buy complete, cause the jeep guys......

so it appears, I will have to drop my parts transmission from the pajero to get an exact idea of what fits and what do not. a big job.

the other idea, which is very appealing and almost a better solution is to shed the aisin transmission, and fab in a NAG1 transmission.
there is but one complaint with our transmissions, they are power hogs.
the w580, NAG1 is a superior transmission, and there is now a reliable stand alone controller for it. giving us 5 forward gears in a small light, relatively, bulletproof trans
with a ruby case opton
 

sledhooligan

New member
Whats wrong with a doubler? My NWF black box to a Bronco Dana 20 is shorter then a NP241 or 31. It also acts as my adapter to the 4l60E.
 

Toasty

Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
Just a note for readers, the super easy and less expensive route is to buy Mark's gears for the Mitsu T-case. I've owned 3 sets, been super happy every time. I also have 4:1 in my Gen2 and have helped install that setup in 3 other trucks, it's ************** but very expensive and not as well mannered of a T-case and probably not as strong. It's worth doing it you have 35's and or rock crawl otherwise the 3.15's are far better. The 2.85' in the Gen 1 are plenty as well unless again 35's and or rocks. Doublers are the best of everything, my next case will be a Black Box-i and Dana 20. Last option is most expensive.
 

ARDOR

Active member
As an aside and follow up to Toasty's comments, I noticed someone listed a 2.85:1 transfer case from a gen 1 on the ADD forum 10 days ago; I've no connection or relation to the seller, just though I'd pass it along if others were looking.

For sale is 2.85:1 transfer case out of a gen 1 auto
Selling my 2.85's t case. I have another stock case that will come with it. It likes to come out of 2wd but that's why the other case comes with it. I just keep a strap on the shifter. Other then that the case works great and like to crawl. 1200 or best offer. Shipping can be done with extra cost.
 
very expensive... I guess!!!
I just looked on ebay...and fainted.
the early rubies are fetching more for some reason.
in this realm, of wholly unrealistic pricing, I might be as well off with a stax or the other one whose name I don't recall right now.
as for strength of the ruby, they are 1-ton tough. they are everything my beloved bw4407's are in side to side comps.( but my 4407's are 100 dollars a copy)
strength to weight ratio my chain drives, win hands down.
and a t case is only as stong as the case where the cast iron is winner albeit heavier by...a ton.
 
this summer I was in the owyhees for fire crew. there is breath taking trail running out there.
my gen 1 in 4 low did not have the poop to get up some inclines. gears trump power every time.
the jeepers were easy on me as my rig is old as am i, and the razors just scooted along like it were flat. montee was grunting and overheating at 6k altitude on old technology.
that's when I swore I'd make a go at my ruby install finally.

but fellas if u wanna get some place off road, look into a tatra, spooky how they get along thru the brush at 55k pounds
 
update: the automatic ruby t case will fit the gen 1 transmission.
the input shaft will have to be changed out for the manual transmission input shaft.
where I might find one of those...is anybodies guess .
I'm hoping that a standard 241 input shaft is identical, but likely due to the planets, it has a different drive gear.
I believe this transmission will accept the toyota twin turbo guts. clutches, and steels.
if so, it's time to build that too, since I now have a spare, on the floor. get my torque converter rebuilt, and I'm good for a long time
 
solution.
measure and cut the splined end from another transfer case, weld it end to end with the automatic input shaft,
problem solved, as long as I measure correctly, reassemble, and ...happy motoring
 

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