24" Hightop Express Rear Build-out

Len.Barron

Observer
Plumbing is just about my least favorite thing to do, it seems that no matter how well I plan it out it still requires 4 additional trips to Lowes for fittings. I'm using crimp on PEX which I'm a huge fan of and used on my motorhome replumb a couple years back. Standard dump valve will be inside for easy access. getting the sink drain in that tight space and still being able to remove the lower section of the p-trap required a little modification to the parts but works well now (well...I guess I should put some water in it before I say that..).
 

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Len.Barron

Observer
Bought a couple sheets of 1/2" birch plywood (to match the counter) and started filling in openings (still have a bunch to do) and got the Sequoia table leg assy attached, I'm pretty happy with how stable this set up is and it's easy to deploy/breakdown when converting back to bed configuration. I may switch to the flush floor mounts later, I had to be sure there wasn't anything below that would be a problem if I cut a large hole in those spots, this will be fine for now, if I need them out of the way they come right up as I used riv-nuts in the floor to anchor them. Also fabbed up a small house fuse block mount, 12 circuits is probably more than I'll need but it's nice to have some room for expansion.
 

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Len.Barron

Observer
Got the rest of the bed base panels cut out and installed and about half of the galley cabinet as well, I'm using magnets to attach all the panels that I want to be removable(still need to hit the corners with the 1/2" belt sander to clean up the welds a bit more). I ran about a half sheet of plywood short so I'll have to hit the Home Deep-hole tomorrow... Also decided that until/unless I incorporate hot water I just tied both sides of the faucet to cold with a dual outlet water stop valve.
 

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Len.Barron

Observer
Got the offset piano hinges in and cut and installed faces for the galley cabinet. This last sheet of birch plywood was from a different batch and has way more color/grain that the others...not a huge deal, I probably should have paid more attention to that when I was getting that last sheet. I'm waiting on some marine "flush pulls" to install on all the panels. I'm grateful they aren't here yet...I hate wood-work..
 

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Len.Barron

Observer
Cushions are out for upholstery and interior structures are out for powder coat so I switched over to hitch/scooter mods. I've made it a point on all my tow vehicles to make them 3-point receivers, it makes using a cycle/scooter a 100 times more stable. I'm also going to incorporate some bins in the open areas between the receiver tubes for fluids/jack stowage. I had bought the 5/8" threaded rod for my side step project and it worked well again for keeping all three in line. I've got some other ideas for the outer aux receiver tube extensions (for when the scooter carrier isn't there) maybe a small deck panel with a flip down step..
 

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45Kevin

Adventurer
Great work Len. What kind of scooter do you have?
I have an old CT90 I was thinking of hauling around with me on my travels.

How "dust proof" and "tamper proof" is the storage box.

I plan to do similar and am really concerned about the amount of dust that follows you on some of the DV and such back roads.
Also concerned that the box could be opened with a screw driver and a quick flick of the wrist.
 

Len.Barron

Observer
Scooter is a Kymco Like 200 (actually 165cc) it's light and plenty of power for the two of us, also got my iPower 2000 (yamaha clone) fired up...these were new to me but the reviews are really good on them and Jegs.com had an excellent deal on them. It fired up on the second pull and I put my heat gun on full temp and fan speed (everybit of the 1600 running watts) and it handles it just fine (obviously not on eco-mode) when running in eco it is super quiet..524868
 

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Len.Barron

Observer
How "dust proof" and "tamper proof" is the storage box.


Also concerned that the box could be opened with a screw driver and a quick flick of the wrist.
This box has a pretty impressive gasket but I hear you on the dust/dirt, it can be miserable. the latch on this box is ridiculous, shy of a small crowbar you're not getting it...the box itself is 13 or 14 gauge steel so you are going to have to really want to get in there,and of course, in the end, they will get in if they want to bad enough. I actually bought this clone generator for the express reason of discouraging theft. Hondas and Yamahas have great resale,clones, not so much so I tend to think it less likely to get nicked..
 

Len.Barron

Observer
Cut out the back for the Maxxair 4500 fan, I also cut back the box out for the extended height doors and I'm going to match the finish panel angle to that of the back of the high top(that's what the new firring strips are for, the gorrilla glue construction adhesive needs to cure overnight) , before it(rear finish panel) came straight down and created a lot of wasted space and was a head knocker, I cut just over 4" out so it opened up some good space. I also commited to having the plate/camera on the upper of the rear door, the camera gives a great view from there and the plate will always be visible. I used 6 conductor microphone cord to allow for the door to swing full 180dg.
 

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Len.Barron

Observer
Fan installed and tested, had to make a new finish panel and still need to make some corner pieces. Also since the 3rd brake light was removed for the fan I installed two strip led tail/brake lights. I kept my cheapy "hitch watcher" camera, it's probably the best $9 I've spent, it's hooked to the CTS2 monitor while the license plate camera goes to my pioneer dash unit. Working on relocating the rear ac upper duct to the top of the hightop instead of chest high... I'll need to get some polymat carpet to patch it back in..
 

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Len.Barron

Observer
Relocated rear upper hvac duct to the top and got a good start on wire routing. Also notching to allow solar panel cable routing.
 

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